Won't crank at rebuild
10-06-2009, 08:01 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Won't crank after rebuild
I'm 99.9% done installing my rebuilt 22RE in my '86 Runner. I've connected everything that I remember disconnecting. When the key is in the "on" position, the fuel pump doesn't prime like it normally does. When in the "crank" position, the only sound is the sound of the fuel pump priming (no cranking). Take the key out, and the check engine light and the charge light are still dimly lit. They stay on until I unhook the battery.
I'm sure it's electrical (missed ground, connector, etc). I hooked up 4 grounds on the motor: the main one from the battery to the block, the one in the alternator harness, the small one from the valve cover to the firewall, and the one in the harness that goes over the starter that gets mounted with the starter bolt.
Connectors that I see are unplugged: a blue one that looks similar to an injector connector on the intake, a two bladed T-shaped connector in the same location, and a big white one by the starter that is part of a three connector group.
The battery has 12.5 volts and it ran fine before the rebuild.
I'm sure it's electrical (missed ground, connector, etc). I hooked up 4 grounds on the motor: the main one from the battery to the block, the one in the alternator harness, the small one from the valve cover to the firewall, and the one in the harness that goes over the starter that gets mounted with the starter bolt.
Connectors that I see are unplugged: a blue one that looks similar to an injector connector on the intake, a two bladed T-shaped connector in the same location, and a big white one by the starter that is part of a three connector group.
The battery has 12.5 volts and it ran fine before the rebuild.
Last edited by MHST Guy; 10-07-2009 at 05:51 AM.
10-06-2009, 08:33 PM
#2
Contributing Member
Pull the plugs and check to make sure you didn't leave any rags on top of the cylinders 
I kid you not that was an issue here lately but check check your frame ground on the under side of the intake then the terminals and fuses if you have not already
Connectors that I see are unplugged: a blue one that looks similar to an injector connector on the intake, a two bladed T-shaped connector in the same location, and a big white one by the starter that is part of a three connector group.
vsv's and they go on top of the valve cover
I think you are describing the oil sender plug big white one one should be the knock sensor and on my 93 was gray and the last one escapes me right now but someone will fill end the last one
I kid you not that was an issue here lately but check check your frame ground on the under side of the intake then the terminals and fuses if you have not already
Connectors that I see are unplugged: a blue one that looks similar to an injector connector on the intake, a two bladed T-shaped connector in the same location, and a big white one by the starter that is part of a three connector group.
vsv's and they go on top of the valve cover
I think you are describing the oil sender plug big white one one should be the knock sensor and on my 93 was gray and the last one escapes me right now but someone will fill end the last one
Last edited by olharleyman; 10-06-2009 at 08:36 PM.
10-07-2009, 05:50 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Mine's a '86 so I only have one of those solenoid things on the valve cover, and it's plugged it. I'm pretty sure the oil sender is just a blade terminal, so I don't think the big white connector is that one.
I'll double check to make sure the oil sender isn't bass ackwards with the starter lead, but I don't think the wires are long enough.
Thanks for the help! Any other's have thoughts?
I'll double check to make sure the oil sender isn't bass ackwards with the starter lead, but I don't think the wires are long enough.
Thanks for the help! Any other's have thoughts?
10-07-2009, 07:03 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, update time. It now cranks thanks to 22rucrazy's idea. I had the oil sender and the starter solenoid connector backwards. It still wont run though. The problem remains the same though. The fuel pump doesn't prime unless it's cranking, the plugs are dry when I check them, the check engine and charge light stay dimly lit after the key is off, and the horn doesn't blow. So I'm thinking it's something to do with the ECU. I'm not sure if by hooking up those wire's backwards fried something, or if that was a separate problem.
I'm still thinking that blue injector-like connector on the intake is supposed to connect to something...
I'm still thinking that blue injector-like connector on the intake is supposed to connect to something...
10-07-2009, 07:11 PM
#7
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The pump doesn't, nor should it ever, run just by turning the key to 'on'. The ignition switch sends the STA (start) signal to the ECU and the COR (Circuit Opening Relay) ONLY WHEN you are cranking the engine to start. The COR, being turned 'on' by the STA signal, turns the fuel pump on. Once the engine starts, or at least when the engine is spinning fast enough so that enough air is flowing through it... the Air Flow Meter, closes the COR and keeps the fuel pump running- it's a parallel circuit through the COR along with the ignition switch.
More to come from me once I digest a little more.
More to come from me once I digest a little more.
Last edited by abecedarian; 10-07-2009 at 07:12 PM.
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10-07-2009, 07:21 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Very good idea, I'll have to try that. Not sure why it would leave the check engine and charge light on though, unless that's a side effect of a no start...
10-07-2009, 07:25 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've actually unplugged the alternator (prior to discovering the backwards wiring) and the lights stayed on. Man that connector is a b*tch to get off.
10-08-2009, 05:09 AM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Guess I didn't think of that abec lol. What all can cause those lights to come on?
The truck sat for 1.5 weeks, and had a trickle charger on it last night as well as the night before.
Does anyone know what that blue connector is for?
Also, I tried to pull the codes, but the light didn't flash at all...
The truck sat for 1.5 weeks, and had a trickle charger on it last night as well as the night before.
Does anyone know what that blue connector is for?
Also, I tried to pull the codes, but the light didn't flash at all...
Last edited by MHST Guy; 10-08-2009 at 05:20 AM.
10-09-2009, 05:03 AM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yup, I'm a moron. I didn't have the injector ground hooked up.
So it's running awesome, except the alternator belt squeaks mildly occasionally despite being tight. The charge and brake light come on occasionally too (I'm assuming because of the belt slipping). Does anyone have any thoughts? The water pump was a little harder to spin that the used one I removed, but I figured that was because it hasn't been broken in yet.
So it's running awesome, except the alternator belt squeaks mildly occasionally despite being tight. The charge and brake light come on occasionally too (I'm assuming because of the belt slipping). Does anyone have any thoughts? The water pump was a little harder to spin that the used one I removed, but I figured that was because it hasn't been broken in yet.
