regularjoe

The problems started with the truck has been loosing power over the last week. Then it has been giving me trouble starting. I looked on here to see how to put it into time because yesterday I had to push it off the road when it shut off on me at a stop sighn. I got it statred by having someone turn it over while I rotated the distribter clockwise I just made it home when it shut off infront my house. Today it started right up. We put it in time with a light and the jumper in th ecorrect places and it ran fine until it warmed up. I changed coil, cap and rotor. I just put in plugs last week. When it started running slugish I tried some fuel injector cleaner.

I am getting a rapping noise when it heats up. What we are thinking is the oil is thinning out and the chain tenisor is bad and the timing chain is loosing tention and throwing out the timing thats what we think we hear smacking aginst the case what you think?

Sorry so long I have searched and searched. Thankyou

Edit: 1987 22re I did not see any codes come up. It is the same spots to jump for the codes as putting it in time correct. t1 e1

abecedarian

yes, t1/e1 to pull codes, check timing.

what does your temp gauge read when it decides to die? are you bubbling any in the radiator when it happens?

abecedarian

here's another thought:
to set timing-Is that what you're doing?

regularjoe

We were having trouble setting the timing because the line on the pully was jumping a good bit it was jumping between 5 and 0 but what you said is what we did. It ran fine until it got hot. The temp guage read about where it always did. I also have a aftermarket one and it read about what it always does. I just went outside after the truck has been off for a few hours now and it fired right up. When I parked it hot earlier it would not start.

I do not notice boiling in rad and I just checked the antifreeze level it looks good. Abe I'm lost could the timing chain cause any of this? I know two weeks ago the truck had much more power it just kept faiding out.

Doodlebug

That sounds like an electrical problem to me. You could have a wire shorting out after it heats up. Once it cools down, its ok. The first place I would look is the coil. A bad coil will often behave like this. Also, you said you were loosing power and that also can be an indication of a bad coil. Just my .02.
Woops, I see now you have already changed the coil out. Are you sure you timed your engine correctly? Have you checked your fuel pressure? You could have a clogged up filter that gradually starves the engine. Once it sets for a few hours it allows enough fuel in to crank the engine and run for a while until it is starved of fuel again.

abecedarian

If the idle speed changed when you inserted the jumper and the timing mark is still bouncing around, the most likely cause is the timing chain- most likely the guide(s) are broke allowing the slack in the chain to move around.
I'd pull the valve cover and look down the right side of the chain (standing in front of the engine) and make sure the guide is still in one piece.

Doodlebug

I wouldn't think that it would be timing related. He said that once it got hot, it would shut off, and once it sat for a while and cooled off it would crank back up. If there were enough slack in the timing chain to jump timing, it wouldn't all of a sudden jump back to the correct timing just by setting and cooling off, would it? I don't know, I'm definitely not an expert or anything. I can give you some advice however, and I mean no offense, but if I were you I believe I would take it to a good shop or even the dealer. I may be wrong, but this sounds like it is beyond your capabilities. There's nothing wrong with turning it over to a good mechanic when you reach the limits of your expertise.

abecedarian

The timing is bouncing around, even with the jumper inserted. If the TPS is fine, the timing chain is the next logical culprit. Which, if it is not found to be an issue... leads to my next suggestion- run without the thermostat. May not get to closed loop mode, but will point at a cooling issue or coolant temp sensor.

j0hNnI

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lol i had a problem like that before but it wasnt like what you guys are describing an it was on a 4 wheeler turned out the rings were melted to the cylinder when it cooled down i could ride it for about 15 mins but when it got hot it would just shut down an you'd hear a bad knock like it was going to explode, and if your engine has overheated like that i just might be the same problem rings an cylinders could be effed

Toyota Pete

My own 88 did this to me and I've seen a couple of others do the same thing. It was the pickup coil inside the distributor(around the shaft) I checked it with an ohm meter and a heat gun. Ok cold had open circut after it was heated with heat gun. If you have access to another dist try swapping them.

regularjoe

ok I got a update. i put the jumper back in and now witht he truck at idle the cel flashed 6 times then 11 times. Per troublecodes.net 6 RPM signal (Crank Angle Pulse).11 Switch signal. 11 ECU/ECM.
I did not notice the isle droping this time when i put in the jumper. I looked on 4crawls sight on how th check the TPS ill have to track down a meter. I also plan to take the cover off because when it heats up it really sounds like the chain is rapping on the side of the case. I may have two seperate problems. It idles just fine with a cold engine. Like I said after setting the timing we had to advance the timing to get it to start. If it was electrical why would advancing timimg get it to start? Would the timing chain cause the mark on the pully jump around I never saw one jump real bad. Could the timing chain tensor be going bad? I am not the best to figure this out so I really appreciate the help.

What do you subjest I do?
-Take off cover and check chain
-check tps