Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have never had problems with the Cold Start Injector. It is rock solid in my opinion. The Timing Switch to it, which is located on the front of the intake, sort of below the Thermostat (The Brown one, next to the green sensor) is usually the biggest problem with that. Even at that it has to be below 50 or 60 degress for it to operate. Most part of the country is warm enough for the Cold Start Sytem to not be used. You will see several threads pop when it turns cold and people wondering why their trucks not starting.

What symptoms is he having? I re read your earlier post. Mostly what is involved is the when cranking the motor, that pulls air thru the Air Flow Meter, which energizes the Circuit Opening Relay which energizes the Fuel Pump. That is how I understand it.

The jumper I posted should get the truck running bypassing the COR. Is the AFM hooked up? When you had to replace the tank, was it rusted up bad?

Here is a thread that can help https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-22re-270857/ if the issue is on the fuel side of the injectors.

thesculptor

I printed out your suggestion. He wired the relay told me that was not the problem, had a pressure gauge on it. He said it started in the morning and after it would not start all day. When I got there on Friday around 5 he tried it and it started right up. Thats what made him think it was the cold start switch. Sorry but you have to remember I'm not a mechanic so I'm relaying as much as I can to you. He said he would try it first thing this morning Saturday and if it started he thought it must be the cold start switch, would fix it and call me. He never called. Poor guy. He told me hes mad now and determined to find out what the problem is. My problem is I have missed 4 weeks of work. It all started as you know with a leaking gas tank. I need some prayers, lol I asked me friday do you think its the fuel pump. No it works. I don't know whats next. I will keep you posted. Thanks
BTW He was not talking about the cold start injector. A cold start switch which a friend of his told him was on the firewall behind the engine toward the top. Make sense to you?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

It took me some thinking on how I would go about seeing what is wrong with your truck. Since it all started with the gas tank leaking and assuming nothing has changed with the timing as in not adjusting the distributor, and the timing chain is good.

I would put the jumper in the Fuel Pump Bypass like mentioned in earlier in the thread and make sure the fuel pump is good. I remove the fuel line from the back of the fuel rail and see if it will fill a quart jar in a minute or so. I flows quick.

These checks are on the Firing side of the ignition system. If the fuel flow is good, I would jumper TE and E1 and see if I got any check codes. If that is good. I would see if I am getting spark. The mechanic can run some resistance checks on the coil and see if that is good. He will need to check the Primary and Secondary coil resistance checks. Haynes Manual has a real good description in the manual for that.

One possible thing that can be an issue is the Igniter, the square box that sits on top of the Coil. Even in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) there is not a real good explantation in it on how to test it. I would get a spare from the salvage yard and use it or even for testing. Around here they normally run about $50. I believe your Igniter is a little different then the older trucks so make sure it is compatible with your year. The Coil and Igniter is what I would call the Firing Side of the Ignition System. I am assuming your cap, wires, rotor, and plug is good.

There is a Pickup Coil in the distributor that I have read can fail. Might have him to check that as well. Your mechanic will need to remove the Distributor cap to see it. Haynes Manual has some good resistance checks he can do for it as well.

There is a nut on the back of the intake that is the ground wire for the injectors. Make sure it is tightened down real solid. The injectors will not fire if it is not making good contact.

The above is for your Firing Side. Back to what I would call your Fuel Side, which I mentioned earlier about checking the fuel flow, I would do the $3 Noid Light check that was mentioned earlier in this thread. Those crimps can get bad and I have seen 3 times where the ground wires in the harness can corrode real bad and may need a foot or so of wiring replaced.

Also some other things you may need to look for is to make sure there is no vacuum leaks around the motor. Check and see if all of your vacuum lines are routed correctly and in good shape. Might be a good idea to go by a few feet of vacuum line from your local parts store and replace each one a piece at a time. Most is only a few inches long and you can cut to fit. These motors do not like air leaks.

Make sure your AFM is hooked up good which is your air filter box. See what he makes out on these checks see what happens.

Here is your Pickup Coil.


You should have between 140-180 Ohms on the Pickup Coil. I want to have a picture for others if the question comes up. Mine was 158. I just noticed that I had my meter set to 2000, I should of set it to the 200 mark. Last time I checked it, I had the meter set to 200 and my reading was 160. It is still good, but some information for someone who may not understand a multimeter. If you know your range of Ohms, set it to the closest setting that you are expecting. If I was at 201 Ohms, I should then use the 2000 setting. (Where the dot is at is 2000. The 20k equals 20,000. k means 1000, 200k means 200,000)



I found out that my coil is bad. It will pass the secondary resistance checks but fails the primary resistance checks. I had to look into the FSM on how to test the Igniter. I wanted to post the information up, but Photobucket isnt uploading right now. Test for it isnt in Haynes but is in the FSM.

It should be .5-.7


Igniter Test out of FSM.
I have not been able to find out how to test in Haynes or on the net. This is out of my FSM. Electric test is easy. The screw is the ground to the igniter with the bracket. With the key on you just look for 12 volts from the ground screw to each of the coils post. Where you hook up the battery it says you have 5 seconds. I think I will pass doing that test. It would take me 5 seconds just to see what is on the meter. My eyes are not as fast as they used to be.


Igniter ground screw.

thesculptor

Well I got the truck back yesterday and it seems to be running fine. He said it was the cold start injector. The truck is 25 yrs old. I'll drive it around as see what happens. So far its started each time after sitting for a bit. Thanks for all your help.

RJR

It all makes sense. The cold start injector adds extra fuel to aid in cold starting, under conditions where the fuel vaporizes poorly. However, if the cold start injector is active when the engine is hot, that excess fuel floods the engine and it won't start. A bad CSI or a bad cold start switch could result in the behavior you were seeing.