Yeah...I can be pretty dumb.

Okay...so you want me to use sae 30w oil (i think thats the name)

Or would you rather I use the Rotella. I would like to change my oil tonight...if at all possible. Buring oil as much as I am is getting annoying.

What oil do you think would be best for my engine right now?

hey 91 when you put the rings on them there pistons did you put them on the right way?

the rings have a angle on them (ie.. \ or /) make sure you put them on right or oil will burn for ever no mater what oil you used and yes i beat the piss out of my truck when i broke it in 5k pulls in 2nd gear them off the skinny and let it slow it self down then repeat lol but it never burned oil at all even with 5k on the clock driving to cali from milwaukee . WI and back non stop and what not didnt then my hg blew lol but i would see if you can remember if you looked at the rings before putting them on

hmm...I'm pretty sure I did but I can't be 100% sure. Although I didn't see any tapered edges on any of the rings. And why would it matter if it was up or down...would it still be held against the cylinder wall?

I could've fubered!

lol... caught you before the edit... :D

okay...so what should I do?:D

well heres some info about rings

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DN


and i wish i could find some pictures of them to show you what i mean if i can find my old ring bag from mine i would show ya but yeah not likely me finding that lol

I have old rings...and I even looked at the new ones. I just didn't see any tapered edges at all. I can look at my old ones...and I kept my pistons too!

Even if it did have a taper and I installed one upside down what are the chances that oil could go straight through the second ring AND the first ring straight into the cylinder. By dumb luck I could have installed 50% right and 50% wrong meaning if perhaps it was "actually" burning oil into the cylinders two out of four plugs would be off-colored.

91 Toyota,

you need to properly diagnose your problem before you try and find solutions. Take a vacuum gauge and read the manual it comes with, it will explain how to test for leaking oil rings, or leaky valve issues (guides, bores, seals). When you find out what the problem is let us know.

Okay...I'll look at some gauges today. Thanks!

Okay I just bought a vacuum gauge...I'll hook it up and see what it says. Any guesses?

There goes $20 down the drain. I'll never use this vacuum gauge again.

So basically...it sits at 23Hg and doesn't move. Its really steady and i'm sure they means its just fine. This was hooked up to the brake booster outlet (on the intake where the hose goes to the brake booster)

It's not necessarily down the drain. You at least figured out new information and you've got another tool for future use.

I'm not familiar with using a vacuum gauge, so I don't know how to use it or what you're looking for.

Yeah I know...but i've never needed one and honestly still feel like I don't need one. Its one of those tools you buy only to sit in your toolbox and get beat up or to find out that someone 35 years ago borrowed.

I think just something to do with valves...???

you think too much.

21" mercury is a GREAT vacuum reading. I would expect around 18" mercury (HG) for the typical, broken in engine.

The fact that the vacuum gauge reads steady (if it is directly connected to the manifold without any check-valves in the middle) means that there are no issues with the valves seating. BUT... that 21" HG reading also suggests that any oil being lost is bypassing the rings.

So... presume that you just started the engine for the first time and have done its first 'baptismal' oil change, and go through the break-in procedure again, using 'lesser quality' oil (like I mentioned). Honestly, this may amount to nothing if the rings weren't installed properly, but it may make a difference.

At least I think:D

Anyway...so do the basic break-in procedure again? But with cheap low grade oil? Such as a wal-mart brand with a fram filter:bigok:

Is there a tapered edge on the rings? Because I did not see any. I looked at them closely and couldn't tell. Even if there was a taper would the cross hatching wear it down really fast???

the tapered edge should be on the piston side of the ring, and installed with the taper on the bottom (oil pan) side of the piston... in such a way that any build up forces the ring towards the cylinder wall.
make sense?
not that your rings have it, BUT if they do....
and that would only apply to the oil scraper rings... not the compression ring....
its taper should point up towards the head.

No there are 4 =)

1st ring then a 2nd then there are two on each side of the oil baffle =)

As for the rings... Theres usually some kind of marking on them, the marking goes face up.