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Well... it looks like this... you can see where the metal ring on the inside of the gasket clearly "blew" out... which allowed antifreeze to leak into the cylinder causing a cloud of white smoke out the exhaust...
fortunately i was close to home and not going very fast when it blew out .. so no other damage.
I believe the extra boost from the new turbo is what caused the failure after 32 years ...
Last edited by 87-4runner; 01-06-2019 at 12:50 PM.
I have no way of knowing for sure but it didn't look like anyone had ever tampered with any of the bolts or other fasteners...
I was pleasantly surprised at how clean and non worn everything looks... like cam lobes, rockers, timing chain and tensioner ...
I'm looking forward to getting the ARP studs and putting her back together...
I have no way of knowing for sure but it didn't look like anyone had ever tampered with any of the bolts or other fasteners...
I was pleasantly surprised at how clean and non worn everything looks... like cam lobes, rockers, timing chain and tensioner ...
I'm looking forward to getting the ARP studs and putting her back together...
Have you determined whether your head is the correct large combustion chamber/lower compression type made for factory turbo service???
I do not know the casting number, maybe somebody else can chime in. RTE heads are not so easy to lay hands on.
I do know that a factory 22re head that has not been milled has about a 54cc combustion chamber; While a stock 22rte head has a bout a 63cc combustion chamber.
Your truck is over 30 years old and it is a mistake to assume that any part that remains on it is original, or correct. Trust, but verify.
The only markings i can find on this head is a number 14... here's some pics...
the truck runs great... or it did till the HG blew...
I've driven it several thousand miles over the last 7 years... with little to no issues till the original ct20 failed... then exhaust manifold cracks... been down hill since... but things are looking up...
Easy enough to ballpark CC the head. Take some modeling clay, compress into the combustion chamber.make it flat with the head surface and remove any excess. Take a known volume of water in a measuring cup and drop in the balled up clay. Read the new level on the cup. Subtract original level. The difference is your clay, or combustion chamber volume. 1 ml = 1 cc.
once you know that, bore, stroke and compressed head gasket thickness and piston “DITH”, you can calculate your actual(static) compression ratio.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 01-07-2019 at 08:28 AM.
Well... I got a gasket kit from LCE for the 22RTE
ARP studs also because of the additional boost... about 10 psi...
I hope i can get a nice long trouble free run after this
The hesd gasket I got in the kit for 22rte looks exactly like the gasket that was blown...
it's supposed to be a oem gasket?
I'd think LCE wouldn't sell cheap head gaskets... it wasn't cheap...i guess I should say inferior quality...
Now I'm nervous about this HG but doing Google search yota1, 22re performance, all sell the same head gasket? Argh...engbldr is gone alas I'm confused...
No clue what LCE is using for their head gasket. They don't say in their description, so that tells me right there it's not a Toyota head gasket. Who knows they might be buying from the source, and it's the same as Toyota.
Too big of a job to fool around with buying cheap head gaskets. I bought a Toyota head gasket just a bit over 1.5 years ago, and it is still doing fine. Did not re-torque it. 22RE Performance says that they don't need a re-torque because they are the right size.
22RE Performance recommends using a Cometic MLS head gasket running boost. The down side is the head and block have to be finished at RA 19.
All 3 22re motors I have been through have used engnbldr gaskets and been just fine. I am sure LCE uses a high quality gasket as well. If you only have a cheap one then I would buy a Toyota one. If you have a LCE one I would not hesitate to use it.
I personally think most gasket failures are due to either poor instillation and or poor prep work. If the head or block is too pitted most people just mill it until prefect. But after taking a ton of material off both they don't realize how my this affects the timing, usually fixable by an adjustable timing gear, and then they put it together and it over heats and pops the gasket. And again and again...
Getting excited... got the head torqued down... exhaust manifold bolt back on...
lower intake bolted back on...
Get the timing gear back on, stab distributor, upper plenum... a few hours and I'll be firing her up
woohoo
01-06-2019, 12:47 PM
