What to look for after extended open loop safety mode 22re
#1
What to look for after extended open loop safety mode 22re
I have a 1985 truck with a 22re from a 1986 4runner (thus this board as it has more traffic than the 84-85 section). The previous owner or whoever did the engine swap was no pro and i can't be sure about if the wiring harness matches the ecu pinouts. I haven't been able to find diagrams and pinouts in order to compare and trace all the wiring.
One issue was that i believe during the engine swap someone plugged the wrong cable into the yellow knock sensor and never fixed it. I believe they plugged the green AC idle up (i have no AC) into the knock sensor plug on the block. Green plug in yellow port... Seems wrong.
rebuilt the green mystery connector as it was in bad shape. Dismantled, re-soldered with new wire and double/tripple reinforced with heat shrink tube. Twist connection was a temp measure for testing. Pretty sturdy now even if it never gets used. Worth while project in order to learn how to save these old crusty connections. Yellow plug was hanging and dirty so it's cleaned up and connected to it's yellow port now.
After tracing the green plug to the ECU i couldn't even find where it connected. The yellow plug however did trace to the ecu but there are multiple pinout diagrams for different ECUs. How do i varify that my ECU matches the wiring harness/engine?
Anyhow, taking a chance i cleaned and plugged the color matched connectors to the knock sensor after some contact cleaner. Threw a code at first but after another cleaning both the knock code 12 and TPS code 11 cleared out and haven't come back yet. The code used to come up only after starting and revving the engine past about 2500rpms.
My question is, if the knock sensor is now connected correctly, what do i need to look for as far as damage, corrosion, carbon deposits, etc across the engine and exhaust from running in open loop mode for what I assume has been since the engine was put in 10+ years ago.
I anticipate a top end rebuild at some point on this engine just for piece of mind so if that helps with tech suggestions relating to this issue please advise accordingly.
If this is more of a noob tech issue please move my post.
One issue was that i believe during the engine swap someone plugged the wrong cable into the yellow knock sensor and never fixed it. I believe they plugged the green AC idle up (i have no AC) into the knock sensor plug on the block. Green plug in yellow port... Seems wrong.
rebuilt the green mystery connector as it was in bad shape. Dismantled, re-soldered with new wire and double/tripple reinforced with heat shrink tube. Twist connection was a temp measure for testing. Pretty sturdy now even if it never gets used. Worth while project in order to learn how to save these old crusty connections. Yellow plug was hanging and dirty so it's cleaned up and connected to it's yellow port now.
After tracing the green plug to the ECU i couldn't even find where it connected. The yellow plug however did trace to the ecu but there are multiple pinout diagrams for different ECUs. How do i varify that my ECU matches the wiring harness/engine?
Anyhow, taking a chance i cleaned and plugged the color matched connectors to the knock sensor after some contact cleaner. Threw a code at first but after another cleaning both the knock code 12 and TPS code 11 cleared out and haven't come back yet. The code used to come up only after starting and revving the engine past about 2500rpms.
My question is, if the knock sensor is now connected correctly, what do i need to look for as far as damage, corrosion, carbon deposits, etc across the engine and exhaust from running in open loop mode for what I assume has been since the engine was put in 10+ years ago.
I anticipate a top end rebuild at some point on this engine just for piece of mind so if that helps with tech suggestions relating to this issue please advise accordingly.
If this is more of a noob tech issue please move my post.
#2
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The yellow plug is the one that goes to the Knock Sensor. It is possible for it to go to the port on top of the Thermostat housing as they do look quite similar.
I am almost sure the 85 and 86 computer are the same. I don't know if there would be damage, but cleaning the Intake system of carbon from the EGR is quite common on these trucks.
I am not sure where you could get an Electrical Wiring Diagram for these trucks at. Most of the pinouts are the same but sure there is one or two pins that do differ from year to year.
I am almost sure the 85 and 86 computer are the same. I don't know if there would be damage, but cleaning the Intake system of carbon from the EGR is quite common on these trucks.
I am not sure where you could get an Electrical Wiring Diagram for these trucks at. Most of the pinouts are the same but sure there is one or two pins that do differ from year to year.
#3
The yellow plug is the one that goes to the Knock Sensor. It is possible for it to go to the port on top of the Thermostat housing as they do look quite similar.
I am almost sure the 85 and 86 computer are the same. I don't know if there would be damage, but cleaning the Intake system of carbon from the EGR is quite common on these trucks.
I am not sure where you could get an Electrical Wiring Diagram for these trucks at. Most of the pinouts are the same but sure there is one or two pins that do differ from year to year.
I am almost sure the 85 and 86 computer are the same. I don't know if there would be damage, but cleaning the Intake system of carbon from the EGR is quite common on these trucks.
I am not sure where you could get an Electrical Wiring Diagram for these trucks at. Most of the pinouts are the same but sure there is one or two pins that do differ from year to year.
Also, one speculation I've had is that the knock sensor causing the engine to run in open loop cause the TPS code as well? The CEL hasn't come back but i haven't checked for stored codes in a couple days. Hoping it was a two birds with one stone easy fix and i can start doing some more engine maintenance like cleaning the intake, egr, etc as suggested.
#5
Checked codes. Knock sensor resolved. Still getting code 11 tps. Time to clean up the intake and test the TPS I guess.
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I try to get all the use out of a part as possible. The TPS is one that if it is old, I have seen the contacts cleaned and some have even take the top off and cleaned the fingers underneath. The TPS is one I now will replace with a Denso if it is causing problems. I have seen them to pass test but still cause issues.
Look at how many times in one mile that you are on and off the throttle. A truck with 250k miles literally has millions of operations on the TPS. Setting it sounds easy with just a feeler gauge and a multi meter and is still something that kicks my rear that I have Toyota to set the TPS for me. I just take them the Throttle Body and Sensor. You might have better luck then me on setting it.
Look at how many times in one mile that you are on and off the throttle. A truck with 250k miles literally has millions of operations on the TPS. Setting it sounds easy with just a feeler gauge and a multi meter and is still something that kicks my rear that I have Toyota to set the TPS for me. I just take them the Throttle Body and Sensor. You might have better luck then me on setting it.
#7
I try to get all the use out of a part as possible. The TPS is one that if it is old, I have seen the contacts cleaned and some have even take the top off and cleaned the fingers underneath. The TPS is one I now will replace with a Denso if it is causing problems. I have seen them to pass test but still cause issues.
Look at how many times in one mile that you are on and off the throttle. A truck with 250k miles literally has millions of operations on the TPS. Setting it sounds easy with just a feeler gauge and a multi meter and is still something that kicks my rear that I have Toyota to set the TPS for me. I just take them the Throttle Body and Sensor. You might have better luck then me on setting it.
Look at how many times in one mile that you are on and off the throttle. A truck with 250k miles literally has millions of operations on the TPS. Setting it sounds easy with just a feeler gauge and a multi meter and is still something that kicks my rear that I have Toyota to set the TPS for me. I just take them the Throttle Body and Sensor. You might have better luck then me on setting it.
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