welding front diff
 

Hello all,

I am gald to be back after 2 kids in 16 months.(pics will come). I am going to weld the front diff on my 95 pu. I was wondring if anyone remembers the thread that tells how to eliminate the vacuum system in the front. Something about a fork insterted to keep the axle engaged. searched to no avail, so any help is greatly appreciated.

dont weld it ! you will hate it

x2. You may have more traction, but you will have a hell or a time with steering. Dont do it.

x5.... You can weld the rear (ghetto style), but NOT the front!

if you insist on welding the front get a few extra CV's:hillbill:

WOW! There seams to be a big "Don't Weld it" crowd. I have warn hubs so steering won't be an issue (just leave one unlocked) I have 2 spare diffs and a couple spare cv's however I have NO LIFT and there are a few people here that have no issues with a welded front.
BACK TO THE QUESTION. has anyone removed the vacuum system on the diff? I hate that weak link.

Or take the money you would have to spend on cv's and just get a lockright or an aussie


You have to take apart the front panel, you will see the sleeve, where it needs to go and where the actuator needs to be. once you move the actuator in place, you can hose clamp (the actuator side) to keep it in place. then just plug both vacuum lines and you are good to go.


edit* found it.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

I don't understand how a lockright is any different than welding the front with one hub unlocked. I have a lockright in the back and it puts 100% power to the tire with grip (in theory) this would be the same as the front would it not? I will only have both front tires locked in extreme circumstances, for the most past I can deal with TRUE 3 wheel drive most of the time and I can select the front tire I would like to have power too.

Thoughts?

I just read that lockright warns YOU CANNOT RUN A VEHICLE WITH A FRONT LOCKER IN 4X4 ON THE ROAD. With a welded/locking hub setup I could run 3x4 with no steering affected.

whats the point if you are going to have one hub unlocked? If the locked wheel is in the air and you need front traction do you go out and lock the one thats still on the ground? Guess I never thought of this as a viable option. I would rather spend the money on a locker, but hey, to each his own. At the end of the day, everyone is just throwing out opinions, its still your rig and you can do what you like, right?

Just a thought. If I can manually engage the vacuum system I could leave both hubs locked and use a switch to engage the drivers side axle when needed! That would be like a poor mans selectable locker!!!!

ooooh. I like it!!!! You should try that and then do a write up!!!!!! Score!!! :great:


vacuum to the passenger side engages drivers tire. Vacuum to drivers side disengages.

Thanks for the insite kiyo. I don't use my truck for wheelin as a sole purpose. It's my dd and trapping truck, hunting truck, fishing truck etc. Getting out to lock or unlock one hub is a lot cheaper than a locker and I have LOTS of spare parts so worst case I put the open diff back in.

Any thoughts on BYPASSING THE VACUUM LINE?

how do you plan to engage/disengage the ADD?

And good point. Money is tight for me too or I would have sliders, lockers and new bumpers........ Stupid expensive wife..... :roll:


:D

I did weld mine once. So I can speak from experience. It was horrible. The power steering CANNOT handle turning(steering) the front tires, unless the vehicle is moving. And even then there are difficulties that tend to occur when running what is essentially a spool on any steering axle. I quickly found out that if your front tires aren't aired down EXACTLY the same(or happen to be only slightly different diameter from uneven wear) you will be drug towards whichever ditch/side of the trail is closer to the smaller one(diameter wise).

Not so fun.....:dunno:

That didn't work for me...but go ahead and do it.

You'll see.:laugh:

What happend with one hub locked? why did it not work? was it pulling to that driven side too much? I only need 4x4 in a bad snow storm anyway.

I ain't sure exactly, I expected it to work. It just didn't seem to make steering any easier untill I unlocked both and disengaged 4wd. But, I'm thinking it has to do with the cv's wanting to bind-up in the steering axis. Due to the lack of speed differentiation between both sides.

Come to think of it, if you were to disengage one the cv's from the spool, I bet that would work. As one is turning and the other, not connected to it, allowed to turn at it's own speed. Touche!

Open diffs work best in the snow, if you want my opinion. With only one wheel wanting to dig, instead of both. Worth considering if the snow is deep enough to stick you good. Too much traction can be a bad thing. Lockers are never a good idea for slippery off-camber situations(mud,snow,etc.).

Yup I understand the non spinning tire as being an anchor of sorts.

well i guess it is settled. I am going to rewire the add switch system so that I can manually engage the cv. If anyone knows how the add switch system works or has a wiring diagram it would save me a lot of time. Thanks

I am looking forward to see what comes of this. Keep us posted!!