Weird idle on 94 toyota pick up.
#1
Weird idle on 94 toyota pick up.
I've had the truck for almost a month now and it has been fine but it started sounding like it was misfiring so I changed the spark plugs the old ones never looked like they have been changed so that so so fixed the problem and so I changed the spark plug wires and it ran fine. But now all of a sudden it's idling weird the rpms are like going up then down but not much and it mainly only happens when I have my foot on the brake but when I take it off it idles a little high. Yesterday I was going down the road and I thought the ac button was pushed in so I pushed it to release it but it wasn't on and that's when the problem began but also one of my friends thought it was out of time to he tried to fix it. I'm just confused about it and have no idea if it has something to do with the ac or if its just out of time pls help if you can.
#3
Yeah that's kinda what I was thinking. But do you have any idea what vacuum line would be causing that like maybe the one coming from the brake booster? And do you think maybe when the ac kicked on it pulled one of the vacuum lines?
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: san pancho, ca
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if the high idle continues, after you reconnect the vacuum-line going to the booster...you may need to replace the booster.
hth,
manny
#5
Registered User
I've had the truck for almost a month now and it has been fine but it started sounding like it was misfiring so I changed the spark plugs the old ones never looked like they have been changed so that so so fixed the problem and so I changed the spark plug wires and it ran fine. But now all of a sudden it's idling weird the rpms are like going up then down but not much and it mainly only happens when I have my foot on the brake but when I take it off it idles a little high. Yesterday I was going down the road and I thought the ac button was pushed in so I pushed it to release it but it wasn't on and that's when the problem began but also one of my friends thought it was out of time to he tried to fix it. I'm just confused about it and have no idea if it has something to do with the ac or if its just out of time pls help if you can.
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
You need to check/adjust the idle and timing when you change ignition parts. You don't say what engine or transmission.. 22re 750 for MT 850 for AT, 3vze 800.
What is likely going on is you're idleing to high and the fuel cut off is triggering. If your idle and timing are in spec the next step is to check the brake booster. FSM Link page BR-7, "OPERATIONAL TEST OF BRAKE BOOSTER" step# 2.
What is likely going on is you're idleing to high and the fuel cut off is triggering. If your idle and timing are in spec the next step is to check the brake booster. FSM Link page BR-7, "OPERATIONAL TEST OF BRAKE BOOSTER" step# 2.
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
It's probably the booster itself, not the vacuum line. Disconnect the line and plug it. Hit the brakes with the engine running. If the problem goes away you know it's the booster. If the problem is still there when the line is disconnected start checking for leaks along that hose. You'll either need to replace the booster or the vacuum line. You'll have to adjust your idle again too.
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
It's probably the booster itself, not the vacuum line. Disconnect the line and plug it. Hit the brakes with the engine running. If the problem goes away you know it's the booster. If the problem is still there when the line is disconnected start checking for leaks along that hose. You'll either need to replace the booster or the vacuum line. You'll have to adjust your idle again too.
2. AIR TIGHTNESS CHECK
(a) Start the engine and stop it after one or two minutes. Depress the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes down deepest the first time, but gradually rises after the second or third time, the booster is air tight.
(b) Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running, and stop it with the pedal depressed . If there is no change in pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal for thirty seconds, the booster is air tight.
(a) Start the engine and stop it after one or two minutes. Depress the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes down deepest the first time, but gradually rises after the second or third time, the booster is air tight.
(b) Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running, and stop it with the pedal depressed . If there is no change in pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal for thirty seconds, the booster is air tight.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post