Upgraded to 35's what IFS components should I upgrade?
 

Hi guys I just regeared and went to 35's. What would be good components to upgrade to account for the added weight etc? I want to upgrade parts BEFORE they break on the trail.

I'm planning a road trip through remote parts ofNorthern Canada and really don't need to be stuck with the missus in the middle of nowhere with broken stuff.

I've been in contact with 4Crawler to get a panhard drop bracket and sway bar disconnects due to bent sway bar links and the usual axle pushed to the passenger side. I saw some bronze bushings and an idler arm, dura something. Will these be a good start? What else should I do?


Thanks!

I did:
Lower Ball Joints (probably most important)
Outer Tie Rod Ends
Upgraded CV joints (www.cvjreman.com) Still better carry a spare
Poly Performance rear axles
Sonoran Steel adjustable panhard bar (I would recommend this over the panhard drop bracket)

Looks good and good luck.

Being that this is an 86-95 IFS.

- Unless your ball joints are leaky, I wouldn't bother.
- Unless your TRE's have play, I wouldn't bother.
- No one makes an upgrade CV joint for our trucks. Go grab reman'd o'reily ones if yours are torn
- the v6 rear end is plenty strong enough to handle 35s.
- no one makes an adjustable panhard bar for our trucks. the SS one might work ( as i know the rear end has really close dimensions ) Im going to be installing the bracket on my truck. its been tested and proven to handle 35s with no issues.
- pull the front sway bar. its worthless. I've been wheeling my truck stock with no lift for years now. its the first mod i did back in 2007, and it makes the ride much nicer.

Parts I would upgrade:

- Idler arm. Total chaos makes a lifetime warrantied DOM steel arm that handles pretty much anything. it used to be 500 bucks, its now 350... worth every penny.
- Possibly a power steering cooler. Doesn't hurt, it'll probably help a lot.
- steering stabilizer - OME makes a great product. takes about 15 minutes to install if you have a skid plate on.
- IFS brace - SDORI makes a great bolt on brace. Total Chaos makes an amazing tubed brace. its weld in, but still allows the removal of the differential.
- manual hub conversion - if you have not done this yet, you're missing out. buy a set of hubs used, rebuild them. ( regrease, and reseal them ) and slap them on. it'll save your front end

I didn't find an adjustable panhard from Sonoran for a 2nd Gen.

I'd carry atleast 2 CV's and possibly some replacement U-joints in addition to Assault's recommendations.

Good point. My suggestions are based on my 3rd gen. Though it seems CV's are the common weak link.

I actually just contacted Steve @ Sonoran Steel and he said:

"Michael-

No the 3rd gen Panhard Bar doesn't fit the 2nd gens. We can make a 2nd Gen bar but you must send a stock bar in for use to use some pieces off of. It is the same cost as the 3rd Gen but requires a stock 2nd Gen bar as well.

Steve "

So they could make you one, but itll be a little bit more expensive than the 3rd gen's due to shipping.

CVs are pretty strong in perspective. Just keep manual hubs on them and they'll last :)

Done the manual hub job. Next is ADD elimination which I have a 1st Gen parts truck to swap parts from. Advice there would be good as I have not found a thread on it just the clamp and vacuum line cap mod.

Not sure I'll need a power steering cooler quite yet living so far north but I will remember that for when I move from the artic. Do they really overheat often? What difference will I notice?

Steering stabilizer. Good call I will do that.

I've been looking at idler arm upgrades, 4crawler has bronze bushings and the dura something idler arms. Is that a good option? I've been dumping a lot of money on her lately with the gears tyres etc so am looking to save a bit here and there if there are other good options. Not that I mind doing so but eventually the missus will snap.

I happen to have a spare CV. I'll pack that too then. U joints, not a bad idea and they are not too expensive.

IFS brace, this is the first I have heard of this. Can you explain in a little more detail?

Anything we're missing here? What would you guys rate each mod in a priority list?

This is all good info. Thanks fellas.

The power steering cooler is just easier on the rig when you're wheeling. its pretty much the only time you ever see a difference.

Yeah the steering stabilizer is a nice addition

as far as idler arms go. the bushings only rebuild it. you can get a NWOR idler arm brace which is probably good enough. The Total Chaos one is a guarantee no breakage pretty much. but its costly.

IFS brace:
http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_Products.html

This is the bolt on one. I have the same one, but welded in. the Total chaos one is cheaper, but its also weld in. and on top of that you can still remove the diff with it.

Below the IFS front diff is a rear crossbrace that structurally provides support to keeping the rear lower A Arms pivot points on either side equal distance apart. Toyota member is fine for normal duty, but when you beef up tires or add lift that crossbrace is known to crack and fail under the stress. Your choice is to replace the OEM cross brace with a stronger aftermarket unit. Here's the SDORI IFS brace
http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_0043.jpg

An idler brace or upgrade of some sort is definitely a must.

The IFS brace would be good too, we've bent ours a little.

Centerdrill and tap your stub shafts, makes them easy to remove if you break one.

If you are looking to increase traction go with an ARB up front, the full carrier replacement will make the 7.5 about as strong as possible.

Don't worry about the rear shafts, they will be plenty strong for 35s.

There are upgraded CVs out there:http://www.rcvperformance.com/produc...ku=CVJIFS-TOY3.

They are expensive, but they are extremely strong and smooth spinning and if you can break them RCV will replace them. Haven't been able to break mine in the past year and have been beating the hell out of them, even took them through Lower Jack this past Feb, so you could say they are Hammers proven... :hillbill:

**For the haters, sure you can buy a lot of cheap replacements for $2k, but you can't buy the piece of mind you get running a set of these.

Tim, are you still trying to build an Toyota IFS truck for KOH?


MaK92-4RnR seemed to hit everything on the head. One other part I'd suggest replacing is your droop bump stops. The weight of 35" tires overpowered my 25 year old droop bump stops, causing my CV to bind and in turn breaking the case around the inner CV joint.

It is still on the back burner. Not sure if we'll have time or not for this next year.

For this year, we are designing version II of our U4 class IFS front end (Scherer #76 has V1) for a couple KOH racers for 2013 and it looks like one of them will be having us build the car and the other we'll be building at least the complete front end, possibly the chassis too.