Seized fan support *RESOLVED*
11-17-2018, 05:08 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Seized fan support *RESOLVED*
So I bought this 3.0 a few months ago. 197k on it now. A ton of maintenance into it. Its been fun. I have dumped money into her so far and it has been fun but today, well..... she took a nasty turn.
A small gargle/knock started as I pulled into the driveway at home. Was pretty mild so I decided I would drive three miles to the Dealership and leave it for Monday. (Why the dealer ? because they were close and Im sad to say in my town I have not found a place I trust for decent work that doesn't charge what they charge and with the others who knows what parts I get... But thats another topic) Well 1 mile (of the three I had to cover) A terrible squeal and smell (burning) started. Seemed to be affected by acceleration. So I pulled over and decided to have it towed. I popped the hood and noticed a bit of oil on the valve cover on the drivers side. This also seems to be the side that the gargle started on. So Im sure whatever could go bad has gone bad. Any ideas on what this may be ? No Check Engine Light. Even continued to drive but the belt like squeal continued to get worse. Oil Pressure remained on point. Not a drop of anything under the vehicle.
Any input appreciated. I have researched here a bit and have seen everything from headgaskets to burnt valves.
On the positive side I was taking the truck to West Texas Thurs. Having this break down 2 miles from Toyota was way better than over a mountain 15 miles from the nearest paved road and 200 miles from the nearest major city. I was going through the steering components next because I wanted too. Now I am doing this because I have too. O well pay to play. I just hope they dont call me and tell me ... "Shes gone ! "
On another note I sent an inquiry to Toyota Corporate last week asking if they would cover the head gasket issues on my vehicle since they had never been done under the Special Service Campaign. I was told pretty much "let us know when it happens and we will see". This is what I get for talking about it.
A small gargle/knock started as I pulled into the driveway at home. Was pretty mild so I decided I would drive three miles to the Dealership and leave it for Monday. (Why the dealer ? because they were close and Im sad to say in my town I have not found a place I trust for decent work that doesn't charge what they charge and with the others who knows what parts I get... But thats another topic) Well 1 mile (of the three I had to cover) A terrible squeal and smell (burning) started. Seemed to be affected by acceleration. So I pulled over and decided to have it towed. I popped the hood and noticed a bit of oil on the valve cover on the drivers side. This also seems to be the side that the gargle started on. So Im sure whatever could go bad has gone bad. Any ideas on what this may be ? No Check Engine Light. Even continued to drive but the belt like squeal continued to get worse. Oil Pressure remained on point. Not a drop of anything under the vehicle.
Any input appreciated. I have researched here a bit and have seen everything from headgaskets to burnt valves.
On the positive side I was taking the truck to West Texas Thurs. Having this break down 2 miles from Toyota was way better than over a mountain 15 miles from the nearest paved road and 200 miles from the nearest major city. I was going through the steering components next because I wanted too. Now I am doing this because I have too. O well pay to play. I just hope they dont call me and tell me ... "Shes gone ! "
On another note I sent an inquiry to Toyota Corporate last week asking if they would cover the head gasket issues on my vehicle since they had never been done under the Special Service Campaign. I was told pretty much "let us know when it happens and we will see". This is what I get for talking about it.
11-17-2018, 07:32 PM
#3
Registered User
Some other ideas a things that can make squealing noises and possibly smell, alternator bearings or a/c compressor pulley bearings coming apart.
11-18-2018, 06:12 AM
#5
Registered User
I spun a rod bearing on a 440 Mopar once. It sounded like that and the oil pressure gauge was moving like a windshield wiper. You say your oil pressure was good. That’s a good sign, I hope...
11-18-2018, 06:31 AM
#6
Registered User
Have a look at the radiator fan clutch bearing bracket. If it is still original it may have seen it's better day. It can put off an nasty sequel when the bearing is going bad. It can seize and cause the belt to burn thru.
11-18-2018, 09:46 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
The more and more I think about it the more I am prepping for the worse. After hearin that video I am almost certain this is my issue. Im researching rebuilds and repairs. Not sure if I should at this point order a new crate engine if they call and say “2500 to fix it”. I have 4K for whatever happens. Will Toyota do an engine swap ? Denny’s auto shop seems to be the one if I do order another motor. It’s gonna be a long Sunday.
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11-19-2018, 07:32 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Well I got the call. Fan clutch seized. They talked me into waterpump timing belt and drive belts while they were at it and in there. Way better news than a bearing I suppose. I was worried all weekend. Also way less then I was puckering for.
11-19-2018, 09:31 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
12-12-2018, 06:46 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Update*. When picking up the truck the guy tells me. Keep an eye on the rear main. Seems to be on the way out. Well I get home, look under. She’s dropping. 3 miles back to Toyota and now that’s done. it’s been fun since picking her up. (About 200 miles).
Today I noticed some radiator fluid around the cap seam. Or cap spout and top seem. Noticing more and more. Looks like this may need to be done here shortly. I have read about every review I could find on aftermarket OEM radiators. Did anyone find one that is not a million bucks that is a solid replacement. Seems to be a lot of mixed reviews. Was about to dive into the NAPA one till I read a poor review on them somewhere.
I love this truck. I can’t get rid of it. But man it shure is costing more and more. Anything to look out for during this swap ? Anything I should swap while doing it. I understand it to be an easy one overall. But looking for tips and whatever is next. I’m ready for anything at this point
Today I noticed some radiator fluid around the cap seam. Or cap spout and top seem. Noticing more and more. Looks like this may need to be done here shortly. I have read about every review I could find on aftermarket OEM radiators. Did anyone find one that is not a million bucks that is a solid replacement. Seems to be a lot of mixed reviews. Was about to dive into the NAPA one till I read a poor review on them somewhere.
I love this truck. I can’t get rid of it. But man it shure is costing more and more. Anything to look out for during this swap ? Anything I should swap while doing it. I understand it to be an easy one overall. But looking for tips and whatever is next. I’m ready for anything at this point
Last edited by Spread5150; 12-12-2018 at 06:50 PM. Reason: Error
12-12-2018, 08:07 PM
#12
Registered User
My radiator took a poo and instead of paying for Toyota gold I bought an aftermarket one hesitantly, it’s held up ok for 3 years now and seems fine. Mine sprung a nasty leak in multiple places. If I just had a crack by the neck some shops can rebuild/solder or whatever they do with good results. But the one I bought has been fine and it was an advanced auto parts one, not sure on the brand but it was under a hundred bucks I said screw it.
12-13-2018, 10:27 AM
#13
Registered User
Aftermarket Denso seems to be holding out for me here, going on 3 yrs.
Not sure for your particular rad mounting/supports but on my Honda, I had to use some spare rubber bushings to help secure in place, as the dimensions were slightly smaller than the original. Without them, they would rattle and vibrate their way to cracks in no time.
So with aftermarket, may have to do some modification. But they work, depends really.
Not sure for your particular rad mounting/supports but on my Honda, I had to use some spare rubber bushings to help secure in place, as the dimensions were slightly smaller than the original. Without them, they would rattle and vibrate their way to cracks in no time.
So with aftermarket, may have to do some modification. But they work, depends really.
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Andy A (12-14-2018)
12-14-2018, 12:13 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
After looking at all the options I believe I am going to go with an all metal csf radiator. About twice the price of the plastics but I don’t find many complaints. I also need a fan shroud. Mine broke off a attachment point somewhere. Wondering if I should go ahead and replace the hoses also. It’s a hose. Do they go bad ?
12-14-2018, 03:42 AM
#16
Registered User
Depends, I would if they are old and cracking at the ends. I might even replace them just Incase, I mean you have it all out and apart and if 3 years down the road one gets a leak you’ll be mad you didn’t
12-14-2018, 07:40 AM
#18
Registered User
The CSF radiators are pretty good. My only complaint is the drain cock and how it seals with a rubber washer. The OEM design is better but the CSF design does the job just fine. I have one on my 1987 two-wheel drive Truck that has lasted nine years so far.
I agree with replacing the hoses, especially if oil has been sitting on them as the swell up and deteriorate faster.
I agree with replacing the hoses, especially if oil has been sitting on them as the swell up and deteriorate faster.
12-14-2018, 08:03 AM
#19
Registered User
^^^ohh yes.
Replaced rad on mine, thought cleaning off oil from heater return hose would suffice....few weeks later, bursts a hole where soft and thinned and a tow ride home.
Visually doesnt cut hose inspection. Feel those walls for thinning in localized spots. Mine was not bulging at the time so it looked ok.
Replaced rad on mine, thought cleaning off oil from heater return hose would suffice....few weeks later, bursts a hole where soft and thinned and a tow ride home.
Visually doesnt cut hose inspection. Feel those walls for thinning in localized spots. Mine was not bulging at the time so it looked ok.
12-14-2018, 02:05 PM
#20
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Thread Starter
I will replace um. Seems like the logical thing since I have dang near replaced everything on this thing already. I actually wouldn’t even mind getting the factory Toyota radiator for a bit more but my dealer says they are on back order. I can order from another dealer but I notice there is a model 1a,1b,1c1d and so on depending on if you have 4wd or 3.0 ect. So I don’t know which is the one I would order. All different prices also.
