Turn signals dont work but hazards do
 

86 4Runner 22re
I got a remote start/power locks installed yesterday and found out my turn signals stopped working. At that point my hazards also were not working so I replaced the horn/haz fuse under the hood. Now the hazards work but the turn signals are still not working. Left and right both, no response at all, no clicking.

My horn has never worked since I bought the thing a few months back. It attempts to whine for a few seconds and then blows the fuse. I assume that's what happened yesterday since I imagine the installer tried to hook the brain up to the horn for the "locked/unlock" beeps. But now that the hazards work I am stumped as to why the turn signals dont. Is there some other fuse that is specific to turn signals?

I am trying to avoid driving all the way back to the installer if I can.

Hmmm. The "Hazard" fuse got the "Hazard" lights working. But the "Turn" signals don't work. Maybe, oh, I don't know, the "Turn" fuse? (Left driver's kick panel.)

But that really isn't your problem. You have an "alarm" installed, and when you get it back both the Hazards and Turn signals don't work. The Turn signals are part of an average alarm installation. Do you think it was installed correctly? Do you think the installer even tried to test it?

Are you sure you want to go back there?

Once you get that sad mess pulled out of there (yes, that's what you will eventually have to do, might as well do it now), you might as well get the horn fixed. Less than $20 for a replacement at RockAuto.

No alarm, just remote start/power locks. Horn will be replaced.
According to 4crawler there isn't a turn fuse on the kick panel
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechI...tml#Electrical

Fair enough; I'm not that educated on the '86.
(1993: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2powersou.pdf)

I've seen this problem in other threads and no one seems to have a definitive answer

Well, the hazards get power regardless of the key position, while the turn signals only work when the key is "on", so obviously there are two separate power sources. You need to track down the power source from the ignition switch to the turn signals. Somewhere that's got an open in it. While there may not be a fuse in the kick panel, there may be one somewhere, perhaps under the dash. Try looking in the vicinity of the flasher.

You might need to find a wiring diagram for the '86.

If they mess with the ignition wire, (one of all the wires behind the drive wheel) ...maybe it is the problem... the wire was left doing bad contact...

The wiring diagram appears to show that the power for the turn signal is coming from the "engine" fuse, while the hazards get power from the "haz/horn" fuse. However the back up light is also powered by the engine fuse, and those work.

Maybe this is a problem that started up not directly caused by that install?
Maybe they used the wire for the turn signals, and the switch already had corrosion on it. So then when they vampire clipped onto it that power was cut that much more causing it not too work.
This is obviously an example of a possibility. What I am trying to say is maybe you need to clean the contacts on the turn signal switch.

Inspect, check for continuity from engine fuse to turn signal switch. Switch takes power from separate sources like mentioned above. Chances are, installer messed up the turn signal circuit. That or hazards shud never have to be interrupted. Remote system shud only need to send pulses to turn on hazards- same signal it sends to chirp ckt.

So I took the truck back to the installer last night. He immediately checked all fuses and then started following the continuity from source to switch. After a few minutes of wrestling around with the steering column, the turn signals just started working again. Not sure why but from the amount of dust in there I'm guessing it is a bad contact(s) somewhere. The turn signal switch itself looked especially bad. Although, the fact that both turn signals didn't work makes me think it must be up or down stream from the actual switch since there are two contacts AFAIK (one left, one right).
But other wise, the remote start and power locks work great!! Not only does it help warm the car up, but I like the fact that the 22re has a chance to idle for a while before I put the pedal to it. I figure that has to help with engine wear.
Cherry on top... The "trunk release" button controls the tail gate window. Especially handy when truck camping, I just hang the extra fob in the back

Meaning it could just start not working again.

MEaning... Turn signal contacts not sending power to pin 3 (green) of flasher relay.

Yes, absolutely upstream of flasher Pin 3. bad switch contacts or Green-Blue wire not really connecting to pin B1. I suggest you take the switch out,
vacuum it, inspect and clean all contacts you can access, spray it with contact cleaner to get to places you cannot access, or swish switch around in a cup of isopropyl alcohol or other good contact cleaner that dries fast. Make sure it's dried thoroughly before re-installing.

Schematic is below but please ignore the red and orange notes - This is for the 1988 MoreFunner - wire colors may vary from 1986, but system works same way

When hazard is on, or when turn signal is on, either left or right, Pin 7 (Green) of switch will have power to Pin 3 of flasher. Relay will get power. Flasher will click. You should get alternating on-off 12V at Pin 1 of relay (Green-White).
Do you see voltage at pin 7?

When turn signal is on flasher relay will click,
At Right turn, Contact TB is connected to TR. you get power at PIn 8 (Green-yellow)
At left turn, TB is connected to TL. YOu get 12V at Pin 9 (green-Black).

With hazards on,
Three bottom right contacts connect both left and side signals to pin 1 of flasher.

Attachment 125428

Thanks RAD4Runner, I kinda figured that the switch itself is the most likely culprit, based On the fact that everything else on those circuits works normally. I'm gonna pull it and inspect it a little more closely, really get the contacts cleaned.
Can I really dunk the whole thing in isopropyl? I guess if there's no power to it and I let it dry it should be fine.

Yes, if you do not have special contact cleaner, ISO is good. Without power of course - LOL!. That's what they use to clean flux off electronics assembly. While you're swishing, actuate switch repeatedly to shake off loose dirt. Blow with aerosol air spray, repeat...

ISO should dry in good ventilation after a few hours at the most. Make sure all's dry, then do continuity checks on all contacts.

I'm kind of having the same problem with my 94 pickup. My hazard, wipers, horn work but my turn signals don't turn on, and help out there?

94yotap

Did you read the thread? Because the two things mentioned were your signal fuse on the later model, and switch contacts on the earlier model.

You didn't mention checking the fuse or cleaning the contacts. So of course I'm going to suggest starting there.

Then there's nothing else you can do but trace back with a test light. Good luck!

We're here to HELP you troubleshoot the truck, not troubleshoot it for you.

I agree with that above guys, but also have something else to add, just in case someone in the future comes looking.
This may be a malfunction on my specific vehicle, but....
Since I posted this what seems like 20 years ago, I have done an insane amount of reconstructive surgery, and a big part has been pulling apart my dash a dozen or so times. Lo and behold I ran into the same no turn signal problem, but everything else on the circuit worked. Even after cleaning the contacts on the combo switch it would happen periodically, often after disassembly of the steering column...and that fact puzzled me since every time I see that switch I dust off the contact points.
So now for my intensely moronic realization. When I would reassemble the steering column, I kept knocking the hazard switch out of the off position. It wasn't enough to actually engage the switch and turn the hazards on, but it would disable the turn signals. I'm assuming that the "off" position on the hazard switch completes the TS circuit when closed. The plastic from the steering column case kept my switch from rockering all the way back (toward the gauges) and left the contacts open.

This is probably old news for many people, but I suspect it was my problem all along. The first few times I "fixed" it was probably me just having the hazard switch correctly closed after reassembly.

Hopefully this saves someone from unnecessarily pulling apart the column, cheers!

Edit: I have no idea if this works for the 94, never worked on anything but First Gen

Good tip!

But not in this particular case, as the switch is completely different location and shape on the later model. Dash, not column mounted.

Just needed a little help but I can see I'm not getting it from you guy