AdamGil

Ok so a few weeks ago, I bought an 87' short bed pickup with a stock 22rtec and 142,000 miles on it. It ran ok for about a week, the waste gate was stuck shut so if you weren't careful the turbo would boost 15 lbs . I fixed that with some penatrating oil. Anyways it would die sometimes and be hard to start and finally after a week of driving it, I was criusing along and it started to backfire, miss, and run REAL bad, the tachometer was also going all over the place and then finally died and would not re-start. I let it sit for a day, it ended up having a leaky fuel pressure regulator that I replaced and I also replaced the fuel pump, it then fired right up and I drove it for a few miles and then it sputtered and died just like before. So I made it flash code and it was giving me a code 6 which is "RPM signal (crank angle sensor)" After looking all over the front of the engine and back by the bellhousing for some kinda crank position sensor and not finding one, I figured it must get the RPM signal from the electronic points, so after waiting a few days I replaced them and it fired right up. I let it idle for 30 minutes, then drove it a few miles and it started to backfire and run like crap the tachometer was going crazy as well, anyways instead of dying I was able to baby it back home while it ran crappy but it did at least run, which is either an improvement or just a coincidence. I made it flash code again and its giving me a code 6 again, also code 10 "starter signal", code 11 "switch signal" and code 14 "turbocharger pressure". Holy crap someone please help me! Any ideas? Cause I'm fresh out.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Don't know what you posted originally but there was a ton of code crap added. Removed.

Welcome to Yotatech.

PlugItIn

you replaced the dizzy cap and the wires, right?

AdamGil

I replaced the rotor and the distributor cap, the guy I bought it from said the spark plugs and wires were new, and they do look new, so I was assuming they were ok.

SEAIRESCUE

May be TPS switch on throttle body. Need to ohm it out and see if its still in specifications. I would also ohm out the mass air flow module above air cleaner. Both are old enough to start creating problems with their mechanical resistance circuits wearing out.

I had a truck just like yours with similar mileage and there is a box on pass fender that reports the turbo boost. Totally worthless but may throw a code if its not happy.

Appears turbo is showing its age. I suggest replacing it with a CT26. The CT20 you should have is a poor performer. Intercooler and boost controller will wake it up.

The exhaust valves take a beating in those engines. I suggest you check the clearances very soon.

The rubber boot from the air flow box to the turbo intake tends to crack where the metal pipe is attached. Throws off the fuel regulation. Black shoe goo repair adhesive works wonders for this problem.

I suggest you add a boost gage to see what is coming from the turbo.

Best of luck with that truck. They are fun when you get them running right and tweaked a little. I have shocked quite a few drivers on the highway when the boost comes up and the truck roars past them.

jimep

look for a boost leak. could be anywhere. I'd check the intake tube first especially the rubber boot to the throttle body. then look for a loose vacuum line or something like that. best way to do it is to pressurize the system. cap off the intake and exhaust and put 5 or to 10 lbs of air pressure to it with a good guage and regulator. don't go much over that or you'll blow out gaskets and seals. spray everything lightly with a soap and water mixture... also I had another similar problem that I thought was a boost leak but it was low fuel press instead. took me 3 weeks to find the actual problem so good luck.... if you overboost it will hit fuel cut which shuts the motor down so you don't blow it up. usually around 13 to 15 lbs of boost is max before fuel cut. the rte's ecu's don't measure boost. they use more primitive means like the afm and tps to adjust the fuel and timing. your aftermarket boost guage might read a different pressure than what your afm is telling the computer in otherwords.