trailgear disc brake conversion
 

just put the conversion on and yes i knew that there is no parking brake now, but i was thinking that i could do the transfercase parking brake by allpro. well unfortunatelly that kit is only made for the 4cylinder and now im basically screwed. does anyone know why it wont fit on the v6 and if maybe someone else makes a transfercase parking brake for the v6.

also besides linelock what else can i do for a parking brake if the transfercase brake doesnt work out. i do not want to buy new calipers again.

it only fits the gear driven transfer case. get a v6-gear drive adapter from marlin crawler or trail gear and bolt up that case. You'll be able to use that all pro kit and have a far superior transfer case all at the same time. Til then, you're stuck with either a line lock (which I wouldnt ever trust) or parking it in gear.

, that would make it a 700dollar parking brake. and if im spending n e where near that amount of money on my truck im doin the ifs eliminator.

what is so special about that 500dollar kit?

I'd just park it in gear personally. I drove my old truck for two years without a park brake, and even when I fixed it rarely used it.

Not the ideal solution but a heck of a lot cheaper

found this on pirate. this is how i am doing my parking brake, and i am going to wire in a relay so that when the parking brake is pulled the brake lights are not on. very simple stuff that makes a big difference!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...+parking+brake

I'd love to find something wrong with that like wearing your seals and junk out, but dang that's a nice idea...

A 4 wheel cable actuated line lock...

yep its a great idea. and i do not have to worry about a linelock failing or having to have n e more connections in my braking system! i am about to order the one inch bore master cykinder so that i dont have to do the 2lb residual valve.

Order? Man some of you guys can't wait to spend money...

V6 4WD's and Landcruisers had it... So you can check a P-a-P, Craigslist and what not...

Also, Napa or the likes should have the same thing Marlin or whoever's in another timezone will sell you...


Also, don't kid yourself. It's got the same chances of failing as a linelock does... Prolly more b/c a line lock is just a block, and this lock taxes the braking system's seals and diaphragms...

But I'd definitely put my foot on it and THEN pull the hand brake, not pull the hand brake to lock it...

the pedal will push all calipers. and if you would trust a line lock more then why do people not trust them?

you use the pedal everyday allday and alot of times you use more pressure to keep you from running into the jack ass on the cell phone that just pulled out infront of you.

also the master cylinder is 130bucks. and i like buying these parts from these aftermarket places because it helps keep aftermarket company' that sell toyota parts in business. and besides its probably not going to be much cheaper from napa

depending on the price difference i may go with the landcruiser mastercylinder. and if i did that i could charge it to my dads napa account. what model landcruiser and will it have 2lb rear residual built in?

That is a good question, but look at yourself like you were a company that sold them... Do you wanna pay 10x more liability insurance so you can be rated for on-road use?

All a LL is, is a block on the line. Push brakes, pull LL... Now what if you have a failure b/c somebody didn't install it correctly? Law suit... B/c it rolled down hill through an old folks retirement home on it's way to a school play yard at recess...

Now you do use brakes all day, but at %100 duty cycle? Is there enough pressure on the line ALL DAY while you're driving it to lock 2 or more wheels?

No. And not only that, but there is no fluid lock with the Pirate Lock... All the stress is at the master cylinder bore seals... And now what happens when that lets go? (not saying it will, just saying the Pirate Lock and LL are about a 1:1 for "possible" failure)

And check out Napa... LC master cyls are $50-$70 remanned...

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...+50070+2070028

ok but if you are going to look at it as though it could fail then duh, n e thing could fail. ecen the cable could brake due to rust there is always going to be a possibility of failure, oh and does the master cylinder have a 2lb rear residual built in?

Hey nice idea on the parking break. Very creative! I have the all-pro T-case brake and it's been disabled for like i dunno 7 months now. My cable broke after the return spring broke off the tCase brake which caused the line to frey in the ebrak handle and snap.

Same thing happened to the cable before this one when the rear brakes were stock, the rear cables got gunked up with debri (Wheeln) and the line freyed int he handle since theres no return tension.

Tcase brake is about half as efficient as the stock parking brake. In other words you gotta REEF on that mother to get it hold the truck on a hill, and you STILL want to put it in gear no matter what.

Not to mention a driveline brake only stops the driveline not the wheels from moving. The truck can still roll if it's on a slick surface and the wheels differentiate. Or if you're posing on a rock and have a wheel lifted, unless you're completely spooled it can still roll

ahah! i was right haha.

well thanks for that info. but i am still needing to know if that master cylinder has residual built into it

carry a couple of blocks of wood and keep it in gear

come on guys i need a year and model so that i can get this master cylinder. i am across the street from napa and am just waiting to figure out what the master cylinder comes off of.

Or if you buy the line locker and hook it up correctly and then it starts leaking while u have it parked on a small incline. Then ur screwed (I only know this from personal experience.)

so what is the option for keeping the E-brake...i heard him say something about different calipers, and i know i've seen people keep the ebrake before with a rear disk conversion.

To answer your question about the 1" bore master, it is I believe anyway any v6 model pickup/4runner. Which looks like you already have?

Good eye, but I believe he's not a stickler for details... IIIRC, he's driving a 4cyl converted to a V6...

Again, IIRC...

And he's adamant about a 2lb residual valve which I have no idea how to find...