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Timing chain cover & water pump gaskets go on dry?

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Old 08-04-2018, 03:55 AM
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Timing chain cover & water pump gaskets go on dry?

Should I use a very light amount of Permatex black or red? Or just put theses two gaskets on dry? Thanks.
Old 08-04-2018, 04:02 AM
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I replaced the water pump and gasket. I didn't use Permatex, the FSM doesn't say anything about that. No leaks.
Old 08-04-2018, 04:45 AM
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If there's deep gouges in the aluminum surfaces, some rtv can make it seal up, but in most cases Toyota designed the 22re to be assembled with dry gaskets. Just put a little rtv right where the timing cover gasket meets the head gasket.

Also, if you're doing a timing chain job with the head on, smear a layer on top of the timing chain cover to replace that integrated silicone bead the head gasket used to have there.
Old 08-04-2018, 05:00 AM
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I am not removing the head or pan, so will use RTV at the top and bottom of the cover where it meets the head gasket and oil pan gasket.
Old 08-04-2018, 09:34 AM
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Well, the top part of the driver's side plastic chain guide is broken off, so decided to drop the pan and look for any plastic pieces. Pickup screen looks ok, now trying to get the damn pan out completely. Thought removing the pickup tube would help but seems I still have to raise the engine even after lowering the front diff. Need like another 1/2" clearance.

Last edited by Paul22RE; 08-04-2018 at 09:40 AM.
Old 08-04-2018, 09:56 AM
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I've got a solid axle so dropping the pan is real easy for me, but I've heard it's much worse with ifs. Hopefully you can rig up a hoist just to lift the engine a little. The center bolt on the engine mounts is not that hard to remove. I've seen photos of lumber towers quickly built over an engine bay with some ratchet straps to pull up the engine, but be careful if you try something like that. Got any family, friends or neighbors that'll let you borrow their cherry picker?
Old 08-04-2018, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by gsp4life
I've got a solid axle so dropping the pan is real easy for me, but I've heard it's much worse with ifs. Hopefully you can rig up a hoist just to lift the engine a little. The center bolt on the engine mounts is not that hard to remove. I've seen photos of lumber towers quickly built over an engine bay with some ratchet straps to pull up the engine, but be careful if you try something like that. Got any family, friends or neighbors that'll let you borrow their cherry picker?
Was able to get pan out after lowering diff & raising engine by removing mount bolts. What a PITA. Few plastic pieces in pan but pickup screen was clean, now kicking myself for dropping the pan!. There is no pan gasket on this truck, do people usually put one on after removing pan?
Old 08-04-2018, 11:32 AM
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I hear that, but you know you'd always wonder what was in there and if the screen was partially blocked. Now you know. Also, it's easier to get a good seal with all new fipg around the pan rather than resealing just the front lip. My uncle screwed that up some years back and I fixed it by dropping it and doing it right. No gasket, just a nice bead of sealant. Clean the bolts in gasoline, it helps get all the old rtv off. Check the torque specs on those bolts, it's not much.
Old 08-04-2018, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by gsp4life
... I've seen photos of lumber towers quickly built over an engine bay with some ratchet straps to pull up the engine, but be careful if you try something like that. ...
I can just hear the banjo music ...

In my very expensive city, I can rent an engine crane (cherry picker) for $40/day. If you're lifting anything heavy, do that. A lot of people have been really messed up by throwing a chain hoist over a rafter or other such short cuts.

Old 08-04-2018, 12:26 PM
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My wife plays a mean banjo and we're possibly relocating to WV in the near future. However, I'm bringing my harbor freight 2 ton with me.
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