is there a better way to get the 22R engines to actually warm up faster?
09-08-2009, 09:01 PM
#1
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is there a better way to get the 22R engines to actually warm up faster?
So, cooler months are coming up again..
I've always wondered, is there a better way to get the 22R engines to actually warm up faster?
my truck sits for like 5 minutes, idling, and it won't get hot enough to blow hot air out the heater.
And, when it's 5 degrees outside in a toyota, you WANT that heater...
My dad said my thermostat was probably stuck open, what do you guys think?
I've always wondered, is there a better way to get the 22R engines to actually warm up faster?
my truck sits for like 5 minutes, idling, and it won't get hot enough to blow hot air out the heater.
And, when it's 5 degrees outside in a toyota, you WANT that heater...
My dad said my thermostat was probably stuck open, what do you guys think?
09-08-2009, 09:08 PM
#2
Pull the t-stat and test it. How? Pot of hot water on the stove with a thermometer in the water. See if it opens and closes normally and at what temperature. Might be cool cool, 190F/88C is the factory spec part. My '85 will blow warm air out the vents by the end of a couple of blocks of driving.
09-08-2009, 09:11 PM
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Well t-stats are like 5 bucks so even if it isnt bad its worth a try. I would imagine anything would have a tough tie warming up in 5 degrees. lol. I'm glad I live down here. It is rarely below freezing when I go out to my truck.
09-08-2009, 10:10 PM
#4
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Hmmmm..
"My '85 will blow warm air out the vents by the end of a couple of blocks of driving."
i could warm mine up for 5 minutes, then start driving to school, and by the time i get there (10 minute drive) it'll start to blow warm(er) air out of the vents.
I'm on defrost the entire time though...
If i pull the T-stat doesn't that also mean i have to drain the coolant? then i might as well flush it out and fill it up with new stuff
"My '85 will blow warm air out the vents by the end of a couple of blocks of driving."
i could warm mine up for 5 minutes, then start driving to school, and by the time i get there (10 minute drive) it'll start to blow warm(er) air out of the vents.
I'm on defrost the entire time though...
If i pull the T-stat doesn't that also mean i have to drain the coolant? then i might as well flush it out and fill it up with new stuff
09-08-2009, 11:35 PM
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Both of mine took forever to warm up. The 4wd one has the heater core bypassed, so I will either have to fix it, or get a good winter coat and drive with the wing windows open.
09-09-2009, 07:19 AM
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Not really. All you have to do is take the upper hose off. Where the upper hose goes into the block is where the t-stat is. You just pop to bolts off that outlet and it is under there. So you will probably have to put some coolant back in but you wont have to drain it. Unless you want to of course.
09-09-2009, 07:38 AM
#7
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You can ditch your clutch fan for an electric one or put some cardboard in front of your radiator to reduce that cold air from comin in. Double check your thermostat. Just drain a gallon out of the radiator and pump the upper hose to push whats in there out and you shouldnt make too much of a mess.
Last edited by BigBluePile; 09-09-2009 at 07:27 PM.
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09-09-2009, 10:02 AM
#8
When it gets below -10C my engine temp doesn't get up off the bottom of the gauge the entire drive to work (20 mins).
The ole cardboard in front of the rad trick works great. I only left two inches at the bottom of my rad, and it would heat up to normal operating temps (mid-range on the T-stat) in under 5 minutes.
With the cardboard, I can sweat in my truck in -10C, if I want. Hahah.
The block heater is "key"!
If I plug my truck in, it will blow warm air when I fire it up in the morning.
The ole cardboard in front of the rad trick works great. I only left two inches at the bottom of my rad, and it would heat up to normal operating temps (mid-range on the T-stat) in under 5 minutes.
With the cardboard, I can sweat in my truck in -10C, if I want. Hahah.
The block heater is "key"!
If I plug my truck in, it will blow warm air when I fire it up in the morning.
09-09-2009, 10:53 AM
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But a block heater is only needed for cold temps, they recommended it for -6C and Spokane doesn't get that cold, at most its low -5C or -4C. I Suggest a jacket, you can put a small space heater in the cab and plug it in if its cold for you. Heck here we just warm em up and deal with it.
09-09-2009, 11:19 AM
#10
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it was pretty cold last year...
down in the 10's, and then there was windchill, so it was around 2-3 degrees farenheit.
I'll try the Cardboard trick, because it DOES heat up after a while.
down in the 10's, and then there was windchill, so it was around 2-3 degrees farenheit.
I'll try the Cardboard trick, because it DOES heat up after a while.
09-09-2009, 11:30 AM
#11
Redline makes a product called Water Wetter. It helps the engine run cooler. Believe it or not, this stuff could probably help you out. WW works by allowing heat from the engine to transfer into the coolant. Coolant is circulated into the heater which warms up your car. The easier/faster the coolant pulls heat from the motor, the faster you warm up as well. Furthermore, it keeps your coolant cooler and saves your headgasket from slow-roasting itself.
09-09-2009, 01:18 PM
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yeah its not going to get hot once its started, cardboard works wonders and prevents to core from turning into a solid block of ice, us from the north have to worry about that.
09-09-2009, 04:15 PM
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Cardboard in front of the radiator won't help much, if at all, to help warm the engine up if the heater is on: coolant for the heater is taken from between #2 and #3 cylinders, below the gauge temp sending unit, not from the thermostat area. If the thermostat is closed and the heater 'temp' is set to high, water will flow through the heater core inside the cab... it bypasses the thermostat... and if the fan is on, the heater core will act like a mini radiator, cooling the coolant off. So keep the temp slider to cold so that the coolant doesn't flow, until the engine is noticably warming up.
And you want the thermostat operating properly too- if the coolant isn't 160+F, it shouldn't be opened. If it is opened below that, it's letting heat transfer to the radiator, and that will keep the engine from warming up properly too.
The trick to warming up in really cold weather is to NOT use the heater until the thermostat comes off the peg, otherwise you're pulling cold air in through the heater core and cooling the coolant down as if the thermostat were open.
Also, make sure that, in the case of the 22r, the stove pipe / heat riser from the exhaust manifold shield to the air filter housing is in place, the 'diverter' valve in the air filter housing is causing the carb to draw air over the exhaust manifold instead of bypassing and drawing in cool air, and that your fast idle speed, mixture and the ignition timing are set properly.
And you want the thermostat operating properly too- if the coolant isn't 160+F, it shouldn't be opened. If it is opened below that, it's letting heat transfer to the radiator, and that will keep the engine from warming up properly too.
The trick to warming up in really cold weather is to NOT use the heater until the thermostat comes off the peg, otherwise you're pulling cold air in through the heater core and cooling the coolant down as if the thermostat were open.
Also, make sure that, in the case of the 22r, the stove pipe / heat riser from the exhaust manifold shield to the air filter housing is in place, the 'diverter' valve in the air filter housing is causing the carb to draw air over the exhaust manifold instead of bypassing and drawing in cool air, and that your fast idle speed, mixture and the ignition timing are set properly.
Last edited by abecedarian; 09-09-2009 at 04:16 PM.
09-09-2009, 06:37 PM
#18
Abe's right. The cardboard is irrelevant as the rad isn't even in the picture until the thermostat pops open (after the engine has warmed up). The cardboard is good for when you're driving in the cold though.
09-09-2009, 06:49 PM
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And this is also why some semi-tractor/trailers have louvres or covers over their radiators, so they can restrict how much air crosses the radiator to help the coolant stay warm instead of getting too cold.
