TDC or not?
 

is there a way to determine if I have my distibutor in correctly or 180degrees out?

Without removing the valve cover, how can I tell if #1 cylinder being at tdc is on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke?

On the 22RE, if your crank pulley timing mark is aligned at 0 and your distributer rotor (have to remove the cap) is pointing at the terminal on the distributer cap for the #1 spark plug wire, you are at TDC on the compression stroke. The #1 terminal is the upper left if you are looking directly at the cap.

If it's pointing at the #4 spark plug wire terminal, you are 180 degrees out.

If you have the 3.0, then I don't know lol.

Rob

Sorry, its 22re....

but you are assuming the distributor is in correct.

I rotated the crank till the piston (#1) was at the top of its travel...then set the distributor to point to that wire/terminal.

I guess maybe I should ask, how do I know if I set it on the correct cycle...other than the fact that it doesn't fire yet....

I guess it's easy enough to just set it at 180 out and try it...but I was just curious if there is a way to determine.

and trying to rule out other things...

Pull the spark plug and stick your finger over the hole. If you feel presure then you are on the compression stroke.

If you have a bright link on your chain and are setup properly, the link will be on the cam gear mark, at 11-12 o'clock.

Oh I assumed you were taking it apart, not putting it back together lol. Yeah I would agree to feel for a puff of air from the #1 spark plug hole to get to TDC. Then point your distributer rotor to 12 oclock and insert it into the head. The rotor will rotate counterclockwise and you will be close and able to set your timing. (Thanks to 4Crawler for that advice)

Rob

o.k. I'll try the puff method.

I know I have the cam/timing gear set correctly...I just made the mistake of not going ahead and installing the distr. while it was on the stand and the valve cover was off... live and learn.

Well the valve cover is only held on by 4 bolts. If you want to be sure it would only take a minute to take it off.

Rob

The "puff" method....hmmmm.

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the piston create pressure with EVERY upward motion? Isn't the valve position what determines where the pressure is directed, out the exhaust port or kept in the combustion chamber? I'm thinking your gonna get a "puff" no matter which stroke it's on.

I would just pull the valve cover and check the valve position and the cam postion. What's four bolts and a couple of vacuum lines?

I was fighting a similar problem a few weeks ago, what was messing me up was i was lining the rotor up w/ the #1 cylender on the cap with the distributor in up to the o-ring on the shaft, then putting the distributor in all the way....when the distributor goes in the distributor gear meshing w/ the cam sprocket will cause it to turn a bit so make sure you know it is still lined up when it is installed all of the way.

Also 22re's are supposed to be timed 5* early

Yes it will create pressure but it is a much stronger puff of air on the compression stroke.

With the truck warm, idling, and the check connector short circuited. If you dont follow those steps, the truck will not be in time.

The bright link thing works really well if you are assembling the timing chain, However if the engine has been run, there is no way to tell when that link will line up agian. The "puff" method is very reliable. I'd suggest that, But if you feel you must, remove the valve cover and make sure the dowel on the cam sprocket is aligned at the 12 o'clock position when the crank is on TDC

If it's correct, it should line up again.. As you and I are both stating - take the 2 minutes to actually pull the valve cover and verify cam position. Ideally you'll get 12 o'clock position on the cam dowel AND see the bright link after up to 4 rotations... The cam is really the only way to know for certain.