Rcross

I just installed a set of BJ spacers and was trying to lower my T-bars but the adjustment bolts are stuck hard. I called the local dealership and they have a set of the bolts/nuts in stock. The question is would I be able to grind the head of the adjustment bolt off and push the rest of the bolt/nut thru the top of the assy?

I have put the truck on jack stands, removed the bump stop, and shock to get as much of the tension off the bars but the stupid thing wont budge. Even with a 3.5ft cheater bar on my wrench I cant get it to move or even break.

Elvota

The problem with those bolts is a fine thread and long times between adjustments can really lock things up.

There is a saddle type nut on top of your torsion bar. It just sits there. I have broken the bolt before and it just fell out, leaving the other end in the saddle.

If you can cut the head off, you should be in good shape. You might try PB Blaster though as that stuff works really well on seized parts.

Good luck.

MudHippy

Grinding the bolts head off should be all the effort required. How much are they askin' for the new ones? I need some myself.

Rcross

A bit over $20 bucks for both sides. Whoever owned the truck before I did cranked the bars as far as he could get them to go. With the 35's I had some flex,so I installed the spacers planning on turning the bars back down to improve the ride/flex. It's been over 9 years since I bought the truck and have never messed with them.

I have spent the last 4 days keeping the bolts soaked with PB blaster, and have gotten them to turn about 1/2 a turn. Thats as far as these things will go.

MudHippy

Cool, that's cheap. I need new bars too. They aren't too cheap, the 26mm ones. That be the route I'm headed, BJ spacer phobia. I'm not discouraging their use. Either way has it's +/-s.

MMA_Alex

You'd be surprised what a few coats of pb blaster, and a hit from the propane torch will do to loosen stuck bolts. I've always found it easier to get bolts out the right way than to try to cut/grind em out.

norcalsvx

the 26mm torsions are way to stiff, go with the OME and the BJ spacers work great i beat my truck all the time and have had no problems at all

1styota4X4

use an impact its the easiest way to move them

MudHippy

What happens with the bolts seizing, is that the bolt get stretched from the over load of the torsion bars being at that height, making the threads distort. The bolt will not be removable under these circumstances, without cutting/grinding. No amount of heat or chemicals will help at all, if so.

MudHippy

I'm actually pleased with the stock bars cranked all the way up as far as stiffness. I have 35x12.5's and the V6, which are heavy enough to soften the blow of over cranked bars. 26mm bars are stiffer at factory ride height. But are softer when fully cranked up, as opposed to fully cranked stock bars. My only concern with BJ spacers is exposing my over-worked CV joints to any undue angles, by which they may struggle to the point of failure, in turning such large tires as I have. I've busted one already without them.

89-4Runner

i think you'd be better off getting a longer cheater bar or a piece of pipe and turn them until they break. they are going to be under load and will spring/snap when you grind the heads off...
just get enough leverage and they WILL snap!

Rcross

I have thought of that, with the cheater bar I am using I have already put a slight twist in my Craftsman 19mm wrench. I'm more worried about the wrench snapping at this point. Regardless of which route I go once the bolt is ground off or broken there will be a spring in the suspension.

MudHippy

So long as your aware of the need for proper eye protection.

elripster

It is not possible for the stiffer spring to be softer at any adjustment point. The perception thereof must be due to something else.

Are you jumping your truck? If so the added spring rate is good. If not it serves no purpose other than to put more stress on other parts by not absorbing impact a stock bar would otherwise absorb.

Consider this. A CV joint sees the most stress when a tire has traction, it sees none when it is, for example, in the air (locker only). (if you have open front diff, neither sees any force when one is in the air) This is exacerbated by steep angles. Therefore, when the truck has most of it's weight on one wheel, and that wheel's suspension compresses, it relieves the CV joint angle when it needs relief most. Using stiff springs lessens the suspensions compliance thus making life on the CV harder.

What I'm saying is your CV failure is likely do to the high angle at which you have adjusted the suspension compounded by the stiff spring both of which decrease flex making life hard on everything else. Stock bars add compliance while spacers improve it further therefore easing CV angle when it needs it most.

Frank

isaac338

I wouldn't say anything but you mentioned a 19mm wrench. Some adjusters have locknuts, some don't. Mine take a 22mm wrench, and don't have a locknut. Are you positive your adjusters don't have a locknut?

And wouldn't you feel silly reefing on it with a 3ft cheater if all you had to do is loosen a locknut?

Check it out and let us know!

MMA_Alex

I forget what year they switched over, but i do remember the earlier ones have a locknut. I'm pretty sure mine is a 22mm, not a 19

Rcross

Ok I should read my posts made after midnight when I'm exhausted . I was replacing the front diff housing yesterday and was using a 19mm on that project. I don't have a 22mm wrench but a 7/8 fits perfectly on the adjustment bolts, sorry for the confusion. I hate having to prep for a weekend off road event when something blows with less than week till we have to leave.

The manual I have said that the locknuts were no longer used around the 88 models. I have double checked anyway and there is only the Bolt (P/N 90101-12159) and the nut (P/N 90179-12074) on my 91.

For those that might need to replace their adjustment bolts here are the P/N's
-------------Bolt-------------Nut---------Lock-Nut
86-88 90101-12104 90170-12025 90170-12004
88-95 90101-12159 90179-12074