crayfellow

I am having the same problem with a drum on our 1988 plow truck. The M8 holes are too rusty for bolts, and big hammer+PB Blaster has not worked yet.

I saw that puller on Amazon but it says it maxes out at 12 3/4". I believe the Toyota drums are 13 1/2". Has anyone been able to get a puller like that to work with these drums?

Cheers!

Cale Moody

Don't underestimate the aid of clearing the built up rust/bake-on at the axle-to-drum contact. Dremel/Sanding Wheel to clear it, then heat it up with a hand torch. Make the metal want to let go.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You have backed the brakes off??

With the shoes in the adjusted up position if there is any ridge on the drum your going to have a fight as you seem to have found out

New Drums with New Shoes ??

crayfellow

it seems fused to the hub, there is no movement whatsoever. So I don't think it's stuck on the shoes.

The symptom is that the the wheel will spin 10-20 degrees forward and back, then hit 'something' internal to the brake mechanism. But within the 10-20 degrees, it spins relatively freely.

Back story: we had a mishap with the truck sliding into some mud along the driveway while plowing some late snow last Spring (it snows a lot here). So I think there must be mud inside the drum, but I don't know enough about these trucks to diagnose.

Based on the rust on the back plate I'm not sure the adjustment wheel would be accessible or usable.

worth a try. I am lean on tools here (we haven't relocated full-time yet) so I may grab a dremel to try that. Any specific dremel/bit you'd recommend?

Cheers all!

crayfellow

I have had no luck with a drum puller. It's really rusted on there.

Do you guys have advice regarding the use of an angle grinder with a cutting wheel to cut the drum off? Will a 4 1/2" grinder be sufficient? Seems like there would be risk of destroying the axle. Not sure I have another option at this point.

Cale Moody

Man, I really hate that idea...Please fully and completely weigh this statement: "The handheld angle grinder is by far one of the most dangerous tools to operate."

That is going to be pretty compounded by trying to cut the drum off while still on the vehicle (see: "awkward ergonomics out the yazoo") and relatively tight working zone.

• Have you already hit the axle head-to-drum rust off with a dremel/sandpaper/chisel or something similar?
• Legitimately soaked the drum with penetrating oil?
• Heat cycled the contact portions of the drum to axle as well as the drum to brake components with a hand torch?
• Hit the edge of the drum at a direct angle with a cold ram chisel and a BFH?

Just thinking with operators' safety in mind. Sometimes these jobs require multi-process patient approaches. Make it feel simple and easy, not a frustrating fight.

crayfellow

I appreciate your perspective very much. I don't like it either honestly. I have to be honest that I am a bit in panic mode due to a few matters, including:

• we have not fully relocated here (in the middle of a giant forest) so I have no garage/workspace and almost no tools. I am working on gravel, outside in 40 degrees (or less).
• this is a remote homestead so there are other things to attend to - firewood, for one
• we homeschool 4 kids so time is at a premium
• because we have not fully relocated here, we are only here for a few weeks at a time and I am headed out on Thursday

so that is why it might seem like I am trying to rush it. I just can't afford the time to drive into town to buy tool XYZ on the off chance it will get the thing off, and the time messing with it is borrowed time to begin with.

I have not done dremel/chisel as I have neither here. What would my shopping list be? Is it worth a 40min trip to town? If so, I'll do that tomorrow.

yes.

yes, to the best of my ability/knowledge, using a propane torch. Maybe I'm not doing it properly.

I have been using a decent size small sledge, hitting on the face around the studs, and pretty much all over the drum. I haven't tried a chisel and don't have one here. What would be the right chisel and technique?

Thanks! I'd rather not go the cutting wheel route but I feel like I am out of options. It has not moved a bit. I am also troubled because I don't have a backup truck/plow option, not to mention I really like this truck and the plow mounted is totally ready for action.

fierohink

You said the M8 holes are rusted up. Did you try to run bolts in them anyway? Or go up a size into SAE? Most likely your drum is going to be pretty well trashed by the time you get it off, so drive 3/8 bolts in those holes to apply force on the drum.

Then once you have bolt pressure, whack the sides of the drum along the radius. Add another turn to the bolts and whack some more. More turns more whacks.

Drums are cheap, relatively.

If you want to go the cut-off route, don't try to cut the whole thing off. Just make a relief cut at the outer edge and see if you can drive s chisel into the gap. Maybe work the shoe away from the ridge that is built up.

They will come off. Eventually.

crayfellow

I got it off! A wire wheel to clean the drum/axle mating surface, Lang 833 drum puller, penetrating oil, and a Bosch 4-1/2" angle grinder with a 1/16" cutoff wheel was the winning combination.

Believe it or not the material had separated from one of the shoes and that was what was getting in the way of the wheel turning.

Thank you so much for your help guys. This added a lot of stress to winter prep and now we can focus on other things.