bgordon45

My steering has become progressively loose over the last few years. The truck is at about 280k miles. Contributing to that, I've slid on ice twice (over the past two winters) and hit a concrete berm. Once on the L side and once on the R side with minimal damage to the truck. The steering wheel does not face forward and has a slight pull.

I've been on Michelin LTX AT2 tires which I think are great - but they are lacking in winter conditions. Especially as they wear down. I have some new BFG AT KO2s coming this week so it's a good time to do any maintenance work on the steering/suspension.

I took the truck in for an alignment check at Big O (prior to the latest ice slide). All they noted was that the lower ball joints need replacing. I have ordered those but have yet to install new ones. They are Beck Arnley BJs stamped "555" that I purchased on Amazon. Any thoughts on replacing the upper ball joints as well?

I'll get the folks at Big O to do an alignment check when I get the new tires on as well.

Should I be thinking about anything else besides the Tie Rod Ends and Ball Joints? Could some of the tie rod tubes have been damaged upon impact?

I've looked at a ton of threads but have never done any suspension or steering work. My steering rod was replaced (a decade ago before I bought the truck) during the recall.

Any direction would be appreciated. I've been putting it off as the issue seems to be more than just the ball joints and winter is here in the mountains. Thanks

mountainbrew

Check out the idler arm and pitman arm as well. Maybe the sway bar bushings. I did all of that at once with the lower/upper ball joints and tie rods. Drives straight as an arrow.

bgordon45

Thanks.

I forgot to mention that I replaced the idler arm a few years ago w/ an Autozone brand. I'll give it a look over though.

The sway bar bushings look a bit worn, so I'll look at replacing those. From what I remember seeing, the polyurethane bushings (Energy Suspensions) are a bit stiff and rubber is the way to go. Any thoughts here?

bgordon45

I replaced the lower ball joints yesterday. The new ones have a threaded fitting for a grease nipple. Should I go ahead and grease them now or save it for maintenance down later on? The handling seems better, but it's hard to tell.

While under the truck I checked for play in the rest of the steering but couldn't detect anything noticeable. The boots on the idler arm (from Autozone / installed 3 years ago) are cracked. The boots on the 20 year old Toyota tie rods look fine.

I've got some inner and outer tie rods on order (Raybestos Professional Line).

In regards to sliding on ice and checking the concrete berm (L and R in separate incidents - both going about 40mph) - is there anywhere else I should check for damage? The steering wheel has been at an angle ever since.

I'll be getting an alignment after the new tie rods and tires go on.

bswarm

With the wheels on the ground, have somebody sit inside and GENTLY rock the steering wheel back and forth. Do not let them crank on it too hard! While they do that look at the steering linkage for freeplay, also look at the steering coupler (the donut looking thing between the steering shaft and box) This is the best way to find freeplay. And yes, you should grease the new parts after installation.

scope103

If both you and the alignment shop examined the front end, and even after getting new ball joints the steering feels "loose," you should check the steering wheel freeplay. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3onvehicl.pdf

Presumably the new ball joints came with grease. When greasing them in the future, you should be careful to only inject enough grease to see a small swelling in the boot. If you go too far you'll pop the boot loose, and you might not be able to get it re-installed. In which case the ball joint is basically toast.

bgordon45

I got new tires put on and had the shop do an alignment test while doing so. They said that the upper ball joints were too worn to do a proper alignment. So, I've got those on order and will be changing them.

I thought about replacing both when I did the lower, though I read that the lowers where out quicker and the shop never mentioned anything about the uppers.

Hopefully that will tighten it up. I put in new sway bar bushings as well. The old ones were toast but looked like they were somewhat functional.

I've looked at adjusting the steering wheel free play in the FSM and will get to that if the uppers and an alignment don't do the job.

bgordon45

New upper ball joints are on adding to the new lower ball joints. It feels tighter when turning. I'll be able to get an alignment done now.

There is still some play in the steering wheel and it is off center. I do notice some play where the sector shaft from the gear box meets the pitman arm - with a friend gently turning the wheel. The play appears to be in the box.

I plan on tightening up the steering wheel freeplay per the FSM (SR-3). There is more play in turning to the left than the right. I've never gotten in the gear box and will check the oil levels there. I've heard opening up the gear box is not too fun.

As for the steering wheel being cocked to the left to drive straight - can I reset that along the steering shaft? It's about 10 degrees. The steering wheel want to center but then the truck will pull to the right.

RSR

Grease your ball joints once you install. With grease fittings they might just have storage, not packed intended for use...

Usually they'll come with small nuts and grease fittings. If you won't lose your grease fittings, then you're probably okay to install fittings to grease (not all the way to tight, they sometimes get stuck) and them remove to reinstall the nuts for driving...

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

On these trucks it doesn't cost much more to do all the wearable parts at once. Changing the Rag Joint, in between the Steering Shaft and Gear Box and give a better feel in the steering wheel as well.

lifelongtoyotagirl

I have a question. My mechanic gave me a list of the parts I needed to change on the front end of my truck. Some of the names like the idler or pitman etc, I recognize. Can I just get by with the Autozone brand name of parts? I try to use OEM for the things that really count. But I do not want to waste my money on this.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

For suspension parts Like Ball joints I went with Toyota

The only others I would consider is the Napa Chassis parts line there better quality line.

I would think Auto Zone would be a waste of money.

To each there own.

Gevo

My experience has been different with autozone vs napa brands, autozone has been the significantly better brand. But, you will get a lot of this varying experience and opinion on these things!

Did you do what Scope mentioned about adjusting the freeplay?

millball

Haven't bought any front end parts for my Toyotas yet, but all the TRW brand suspension parts I have bought for other projects have been Sankei 555 Japanese made parts.
Maybe their Toyota suspension parts are Sankei too, IDK.
Sankei Japan parts should be as good as Toyota dealer parts, maybe even an OE supplier.
By shopping around I have got TRW parts in the past at a big discount.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

You get what you pay for. if you mod the truck at the cheaper parts fail that much faster. Buy the best, and be done with it. Otherwise its going to be a constant frustrating saga of part failures.

Gevo

I disagree to some extent. Yes, buying the absolute cheapest priced ones is probably a failure point, but you don't have to buy the most expensive either. And, needless to say that most expensive doesn't really mean best quality.

What I always look for is value. I always search the heck out of the internet to find peoples' experience with various manufacturers and their products and make as informed a decision as I can.

SO far, worst experience has been NAPA brand/remand parts, multiple.

bgordon45

I tightened the steering wheel freeplay by adjusting the screw on the gearbox per the FSM. I ended up going about a full turn around and it feels a lot more snug.

The steering wheel is still centered to the left and it feels as though it is easier to turn to the left than the right, but it is ALOT better. I noticed a slight click when initiating a turn to the left and I've traced this to the sector shaft coming down from the gear box. I'll probably just live with that.

Any thoughts on centering the steering wheel? Still need to get it in for an alignment - not sure if that will take care of it.

Gevo

good. and yes, they should align the steering wheel centered with the wheels when you get and alignment.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The thing with Suspension parts it all depends just who was the lowest bidder at the time of the last contract.

As these things are put out to bid

I can only go by my own experience on parts I installed.

Poor installation can cause the best of parts to fail early.

lifelongtoyotagirl

Thanks Skypilot and Gevo. I think I will start my own thread on this sooner or later. I wish I could afford all OEM for this, but I just put new tires on and have to do timing chain soon. I do not want to hijack this thread.