starts but wont stay running. out of ideas! 87 4runner @@re
#1
starts but wont stay running. out of ideas! 87 4runner @@re
i am in need of advice as i am a noob to toyotas and cant figure this engine out!
little back story:
i got this 1987 toyota 4runner from my brother, who had brought it back to life with the help of my grandpa (they got it with about 50k on the motor rebuild). fast forward 2-3 years later (it has been his daily the whole time), hr overheated the truck... like 4 times.
the radiator was cracked, the damage caused was; a cracked head, a scorched cam, fried water pump/hoses, radiator was done for, gaskets were fried, the new paint on the block bubbled and peeled off!
anyways, so i got the truck, and took it apart with my grandpa (same one who brought it back to life). its got; a new head (cam, valves, springs, ect), new radiator and hoses, water pump, all 3 new belts, all top end gaskrts, and head gasket, were replaced. a new cold start injector (pulled off a parts truck at a local shop).
Aug. 2016-once the motor was put back together, it would start, then die immediately. it would turn over, sputter for a couple seconds, then die.
Oct, 2016- i brought it into my work (pep boys, lol. but the head tech is really good at what he does), and had him run tests in the motor, including; the timing, leak down, spark, dist. timing, ect. everything checked out, but; i wasnt getting fuel to the injectors. tested the fuel pump, good.. dropped the fuel filter, the damn thing was clogged with rust looking powder from sitting for over year (just outside of fresno, ca., if it makes a difference). so i replaced the fuel filter, and i was finally getting fuel to the injectors!
unfortunately, it still wouldnt start! tested the ignition coil, good. tested the injectors, they are getting power, but isnt getting the pulse to spray!!!!!!!!!!!!!
quickly tested the computer, and (words from the mechanic) there is no ground pulse at the ecu.
so my question is; do i need to get a new ECM or should i test/replace any sensors?
the picture below is the actual 4runner.
thanks for the help guys. i wanna daily my runner so bad and so ready to get out of my '93 F250. Thanks guys!
little back story:
i got this 1987 toyota 4runner from my brother, who had brought it back to life with the help of my grandpa (they got it with about 50k on the motor rebuild). fast forward 2-3 years later (it has been his daily the whole time), hr overheated the truck... like 4 times.
the radiator was cracked, the damage caused was; a cracked head, a scorched cam, fried water pump/hoses, radiator was done for, gaskets were fried, the new paint on the block bubbled and peeled off!
anyways, so i got the truck, and took it apart with my grandpa (same one who brought it back to life). its got; a new head (cam, valves, springs, ect), new radiator and hoses, water pump, all 3 new belts, all top end gaskrts, and head gasket, were replaced. a new cold start injector (pulled off a parts truck at a local shop).
Aug. 2016-once the motor was put back together, it would start, then die immediately. it would turn over, sputter for a couple seconds, then die.
Oct, 2016- i brought it into my work (pep boys, lol. but the head tech is really good at what he does), and had him run tests in the motor, including; the timing, leak down, spark, dist. timing, ect. everything checked out, but; i wasnt getting fuel to the injectors. tested the fuel pump, good.. dropped the fuel filter, the damn thing was clogged with rust looking powder from sitting for over year (just outside of fresno, ca., if it makes a difference). so i replaced the fuel filter, and i was finally getting fuel to the injectors!
unfortunately, it still wouldnt start! tested the ignition coil, good. tested the injectors, they are getting power, but isnt getting the pulse to spray!!!!!!!!!!!!!
quickly tested the computer, and (words from the mechanic) there is no ground pulse at the ecu.
so my question is; do i need to get a new ECM or should i test/replace any sensors?
the picture below is the actual 4runner.
thanks for the help guys. i wanna daily my runner so bad and so ready to get out of my '93 F250. Thanks guys!
#2
Registered User
The one thing that comes to mind is the fuel lines. If the filter was clogged with rust so are the lines. Blow them out with compressed air and you'll quickly find out if they're plugged up or not. You can also try to spray carb cleaner or something through. If they're full of crud you might be able to clean them out enough to get it running, but more likely you'll have to replace them.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Has the FP to B+ on the check connector test ever been done to check that your not having a fuel pump circuit problem?/
The problem sure sounds like the run coil is open in the Circuit opening relay
If not that maybe the Switch in the AFM is not closing
If the injectors are not opening has the solenoid resistor(Injector resistor) on the right inner fender been checked if that is open the injectors will not fire
The problem sure sounds like the run coil is open in the Circuit opening relay
If not that maybe the Switch in the AFM is not closing
If the injectors are not opening has the solenoid resistor(Injector resistor) on the right inner fender been checked if that is open the injectors will not fire
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
It cranks fires and doesn't stay running?
You say the ECU doesn't trigger the injectors, no ground signal detected. I'll assume that means you followed the tests and have power coming to #10 & 20 from the fuse to the resistor to the injectors and finally to the ECU.
Check for codes, specifically code 12 iirc. During cranking the ECU generates the timing with out the distributor, if it doesn't recognise a signal from the distributor it won't stay running.
You say the ECU doesn't trigger the injectors, no ground signal detected. I'll assume that means you followed the tests and have power coming to #10 & 20 from the fuse to the resistor to the injectors and finally to the ECU.
Check for codes, specifically code 12 iirc. During cranking the ECU generates the timing with out the distributor, if it doesn't recognise a signal from the distributor it won't stay running.