jester123

Thanks for the info Co 94 I'll check it out this weekend.

jester123

Just got my electronic speedo back from the repair shop good as new for the sum of $105aus to have it fixed.
The tech guy told me that after 20 years of use the 2 capacitors on the top of the speedo board actually leak and corrode the boards green coating causing it to short out finishing the capacitors for good!
Hopefully I'll get another 20 years of use out of it again!!!!

liveoak

this is a great thread and it helped me replace my gauges in my 92 standard cab 2wd with the electronic speedo. The tach wire was not there so I found it under the hood (see pic) and ran it in through the boot and was easy with the gauges out. . My truck has the 22re w/5 spd so I'm guessing the tach wire would be in this location on most 89-95 4cyl efi trucks. If you are buying gauges you should try to get the donor harness as well so you can remove the metal connector (tach wire) from it and pop it into the existing harness.

Harness above the brake booster has a black wire (the only black wire on mine). This is the tach wire heading to the check connector. I soldered into it, taped it up and ran it the short distance to the gauges.




Remove the black wire from the donor harness (mine was black)




Insert tach wire into existing harness (same location on mine)

combatcarl

That's neat that ya have folks who will recondition/fix something like that. Here, we get to throw it away, and find a new/working used one.

jester123

Yes combat I was a little to early in saying its good as new, I put the speedo back in the cluster and went for a drive up the road and it works no problem. I then jump in it to head up bush drove out the gate and looked down and guess what speedo has stopped working, BUT the Odo meter works!!!
So it's back to the repair shop on Monday!!!

Cali_22re_driver

I did the cluster swap and it was a success! Thanks to everyone for chiming in with their tips, pics and experiences. Thought I would share the particulars of my swap.

My truck: 1989 22RE DLX pickup. 5-speed manual. Was factory wired for the tach.

(Hell, I was factory wired for the A/T Oil Temp too. Left the bulb in even though I don't need it. Maybe it can be an indicator for circuit board/ECU trouble or whatever else down the road if it ever lights up nonstop.)

Donor car: 1990 4Runner, Auto, 4WD, SR5

The 4Runner tach was 44.7 or 44.8 Ohms. I adjusted it CLOCKWISE to 63.8 Ohms. Right now I'm idling at 950. Will have to do some tinkering to get it to the 750.

Took me 4 hours. From adjusting the tach to removing/installing to going on the test drive.

Thanks again!

T4Rguy

That's a nice mod, but I'm stuck. I already have an SR5 and am looking to mod to something else, but what?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Ninja edit, I was in the wrong forum... move along.

gilbert72

hey guys, i just did the sr5 gauge swap myself. my tach works, speedo is accurate within 3km, battery gauge and temp also work. however im unsure if my fuel gauge is working since it wont move with the truck both on or off and its showing that it is 3/4full (wich is what it actually was at before the swap).

BUT my bigger issue is for some odd reason my marker lights aswell as my dash lights have stopped working since ive done this . also my fog lights no longer work ( checked my inline fuse and it was fine )

anyone have an idea what could be wrong with my marker lights/dash lights? kind of a bummer not being able to drive the truck at night now... any help is appreciated

liveoak

did you remember to plug in the dial that adjusts the dash light brightness? the gas gauge will hold its reading all of the time. no problem there.

gilbert72

yeah i reconnected the dimmer, all i did was tap into the black wire for the tach, i dont know what could have messed up my lights :/

blacktail hunter

Just the write-up I was looking for! Getting ready to do this swap myself as soon as I can find the right cluster.

Scrussanation

i love this forum and all the writeups... im annoyed not havin a tach in my 89, as well as volt meter just in case alternator starts to go... why would they make plain jane cluster anyways... retarded. Great Writeup!!!!


:b anger:

slo6i

So, I ju7st did this swap. 91 SR5 V6 auto runner cluster into a 91 5spd pickup 22re.

Tach works but is off. Ill fix that soon me thinks. I pulled the A/T temp light.

My question involves the oil pressure gauge (the whole reason I wanted to do this swap in the first place! With the tach i mean.)

When I put my key to ACC the oil pressure gauge goes up about 3/4 of the way and stays there. After starting the truck, and reving it, it looks like the gauge goes up a little bit (albeit delayed) and then comes back down to rest at 3/4. I bought a new sender from a 91 4runner 4 cylinder (made sure it was for the gauge, not for the light.) but didnt specify for the sr5. is this why its not reading correctly? Do i need the sender from the v6?

liveoak

I did my swap using a sender from an 87 sr5 truck with 22re and it works fine and does not do anything until the truck is actually started. I hate to say this but I think you got the wrong sender (even though you said you got the right one) and possibly fried the gauge as described earlier in the thread. either that or somehow the wiring for the oil press sender is in a different place or your engine isn't grounded properly.

slo6i

Im worried that I fried it, but it seems to me it would either peg out or not move at all if it was bad. The gauge returns to 0 when the truck is off (just a return spring i guess?) So that tells me that maybe the sender didnt fry the gauge, but that I actually got one for the v6 rather than the 4cyl (difference in resistance maybe?)

Scrussanation

What brand sender did you get? I recently did my 3.0 89 sr cluster swap. I love love love it. I did go the extra mile and remove the cover and check the guages to make sure none were just floppin around in their. The only one that seems to run freely was the tach. Its supposed to tho. I dont think you fried it i think you might just have a faulty sensor. Ive seen new parts be bad out of box. One other thing you may want to check is the resistance you have for your tach. Details are in this writeup i believe. Get a ohm meter and check the resistance. Also you didnt happen to have the sensor with two prongs did you? One prong will fry the cluster. Luckily mine worked flawlessly. At first i was worried about the fue stuck at 3/4 tank but second it got power and reading it set itself worked great. And yes it should keep fuel level after u remove the key. How much oil you have in your pan too?

Edit: oh and if im not mistaken only difference between v6 cluster and v4 cluster is the resistance value for the tach. Forgot to mention that lol but correct me if im wrong

slo6i

This is the part that I bought yesterday. I'm driving down to the shop at work today to test the speedo and all that. I may do the resistance change on the cluster while Im down there, but Id really like that oil pressure gauge to work!

(Link points to O'Rielly Auto's website)
http://bit.ly/14CwanT

SpeedCrazy

Great write up. I would love to do this but am having problems finding a sr5 cluster at a reasonable price. How much did y'all have to pay to get your clusters?

liveoak

that does look like the correct part for the sender. did you check to make sure you got that exact part because mine worked perfect right away. also as said before even new parts can be bad. good luck. I love my new (to me) gauges.