YotaTech Forums

YotaTech Forums (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/)
-   86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/)
-   -   Spindle Bushings/Replace? (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/spindle-bushings-replace-221504/)

angrydogtattoo 10-05-2010 01:46 PM

Spindle Bushings/Replace?
 
I've done a ton of reading on replacing the spindle bushings on IFS rigs to bearings.

I bought a 90 4x4, but it had a bad transmission, so I had it towed over, I've not driven it yet as I'm still in the process of putting the transmission back in and rebuilding the front end. I have everything removed and I'm slowly putting it all back together.

I have the axles out and getting ready to replace them and all the ball joints, tie rods, sway bar links, bushings ect, you get the idea, pretty much the entire front. While I have it out, now would be the time to replace the bushing, this truck has a lot of miles over 300k and I'm guessing that the bushings are all original, but having not driven it, I can not tell if they are bad, I tried the push pull trick to see if there was any play and there was some, but I have no reference for what would be acceptable play.

So I guess I'm asking if you would replace them and if you think going to the bearing over the bushing is a good idea. I'm not going to crawl this truck, but it will do some site seeing/Mud finding from time to time; going to be more of a DD all around truck and not a dedicated "toy" that is it would not be put on a trailer to go anywhere.

Thanks

:hillbill:

MudHippy 10-05-2010 02:36 PM

The bushings require FAR less maintenance than the bearings. The bearings were only meant to replace the bushings on A.D.D. equipped rigs. They have CV's that are always spinning and require the roller bearings because they'll, potentially, last longer than the bronze bushings would under those conditions. But, due to their anti-friction nature, the roller bearings will need greased frequently if they're to survive very long. The bronze bushings(friction bearings), on the other hand, don't require much more care than a dab of grease on them whenever the CV's are (re)installed, and you can pretty much not worry about them after that.

I'd thought about doing the spindle bearing "upgrade" on my 88, and decided against it. I don't need the extra hassle of lubing them all the time, and it doesn't have the A.D.D. 4WD system that needs them. So I just replaced the worn spindle bushings with new ones instead.

The inner bushing is part #90381-30006
The outer bushing is part #90381-30003

BTW, the CV's will have some side-to-side/up-and-down play in them even with spindle bushings that are new. There's no specs to go by as far as what amount of play is too much though. Just use you best judgement to determine that. And be sure you visually inspect them for any defects or signs of wear too, before deciding to replace them or not.

Teuf 10-05-2010 03:33 PM

Mud, did you do anything special to remove spindles, and tools needed to pull bushings? I ask because i need to do mine. They rattle like a bugger.

angrydogtattoo 10-05-2010 03:48 PM

Thanks guys, I think while they are out I'm going to replace the bushings and not go with the bearings, since I have manual lockers and not ADD, parts seem reasonable, curious to see what MudHippy says. Will I need to press in the new bushings? I'm guessing so.

MudHippy 10-05-2010 03:58 PM


Originally Posted by Teuf (Post 51565674)
Mud, did you do anything special to remove spindles, and tools needed to pull bushings? I ask because i need to do mine. They rattle like a bugger.

I changed them out with the spindles still on the truck. Just removed the CV's first.

Then I knocked the bushings out with a hammer and drift pin ran through the inside of the spindles. Messed them up a bit doing so(the bushings), but I didn't need them anymore. The inners were stuck in there pretty tight, and took some profuse beating on to get them to come out. The outers popped right out real easy like.

Installing them I used a block of wood and the same hammer to tap them into place. No biggy.

angrydogtattoo 10-05-2010 04:03 PM

NICE! then it's a done deal, hope to have it all back together before it gets too cold here nad the snow flies in southeast Ohio

Teuf 10-05-2010 09:14 PM

Thanks mud, i'll try that.

bmcghie 12-10-2010 05:37 PM

I think I'm saved...
 
Mudhippy, you just made my day.

Just replaced both CV joints about a month and a half ago... and then driving to work today I heard a clunk when the front end flexed. Having had a tough time getting the snap ring on on one side... I assumed I must not have gotten it right. Opened up the hub, but my install was good. There is no lateral play for my CV, but the shaft going through the wheel hub "socket" (what is the technical term?) has play in a (relative to the truck axis) front/back, up/down motion.

Doing some reading, it seems I need to replace my shaft bearings, since I have the ADD system.

I was terrified of jimrockford's write up. Hydraulic presses? Taking apart the whole freaking steering knuckle?! But you saved me. If this is indeed my problem... it will be much easier to pop out these bearings by simply removing the CV joint first.

Am I on the correct path here? Any input is always appreciated.

Cheers.

morena67 12-29-2010 01:34 PM

-Hi :

Angrydogtattoo: -Did you ever change your ball joints and your ifs arms bushings?
- was there OEM parts or aftermarket?

...See, one of my upper arms bushings is totally wear out, (and another one in the opposite arm is wearing out also).

-Since I discovered it, I haven't used my truck ( almost 4 months ago ) my mechanic advise me not to use it, till I change them...He told me I should change all of them (8 bushings).

My upper balljoints have the dust cover destroyed also, the grease is coming out of them...

- I don't have a lot of options for the spare parts down here, but the price difference is HUGE:

OEM PARTS: At the stealership: (4 upper bushings, 4 lower bushings and 2 upper balljoints): almost $ 615 dollars.

CHEAP AFTERMARKET PARTS: (4 upper bushings, 4 lower bushings and 2 upper balljoints) : almost $100 dollars.

_Everybodies encourage or advise words are welcome...!!!

_THANKS IN ADVICE...!

angrydogtattoo 12-29-2010 06:47 PM

Morena,

My original post at the top was asking about spindle bushings, but it was pointed out that replacing the brass bushing with a bearing is only needed if you have ADD 4WD, since I have lockers I thought I would just replace with the stock bushing. When I removed the front axles, the spindle bushings looked great, so after 300k either they are still going strong, or...some PO had them done already.

As for the "A" arm bushings, I did not replace those yet, prolly should have, and will regret it later but I ran out of steam and I wanted to get the truck back on the road before the snow hits.

I did replace everything else up front, ball joints, tie rods, brakes, rotors, bearings and axles. So far it all seems tight and riding nice. I bought all after market part store items. Time will tell how well they hold up.

I got a front end alignment and they got everything but the drivers side front "A" arm adjustment, that one will prolly need the bushing replaced. Its in a negative position and it was explained to me that it was ok for now. This summer when it's not bone shilling cold. I will do the bushings. I've had good luck in the past with Trail gear bushings, so I will prolly go that route.

morena67 12-29-2010 08:17 PM

_Ok man, Yeah... guess I get a little lost at the translation...
...But Thanks a lot for your time and advice, it's great your truck is back on the road...!
-Good luck and Thank you very much...!!!

tysen86 01-17-2011 07:58 AM

Just one question..Where can we get these spindle bushings, other than the stealership??

thebeesknees 05-19-2013 09:22 AM


Originally Posted by MudHippy (Post 51565630)
The bushings require FAR less maintenance than the bearings. The bearings were only meant to replace the bushings on A.D.D. equipped rigs. They have CV's that are always spinning and require the roller bearings because they'll, potentially, last longer than the bronze bushings would under those conditions. But, due to their anti-friction nature, the roller bearings will need greased frequently if they're to survive very long. The bronze bushings(friction bearings), on the other hand, don't require much more care than a dab of grease on them whenever the CV's are (re)installed, and you can pretty much not worry about them after that.

I'd thought about doing the spindle bearing "upgrade" on my 88, and decided against it. I don't need the extra hassle of lubing them all the time, and it doesn't have the A.D.D. 4WD system that needs them. So I just replaced the worn spindle bushings with new ones instead.

The inner bushing is part #90381-30006
The outer bushing is part #90381-30003

BTW, the CV's will have some side-to-side/up-and-down play in them even with spindle bushings that are new. There's no specs to go by as far as what amount of play is too much though. Just use you best judgement to determine that. And be sure you visually inspect them for any defects or signs of wear too, before deciding to replace them or not.

Where do I by the bushings from? Should I take the part numbers to a toyota dealership?

MudHippy 05-19-2013 10:22 AM


Originally Posted by thebeesknees (Post 52078533)
Where do I by the bushings from? Should I take the part numbers to a toyota dealership?

That. Or you can purchase them from an online OEM parts distributor.


Originally Posted by MudHippy (Post 51565630)
BTW, the CV's will have some side-to-side/up-and-down play in them even with spindle bushings that are new. There's no specs to go by as far as what amount of play is too much though.

I was wrong about that...as it turns out.


4. MEASURE STEERING KNUCKLE BUSHING THRUST CLEARANCE

(a) Install a bolt in the drive shaft.
(b) Using a feeler gauge,measure the front drive shaft
thrust clearance between the steering knuckle out–
side bushing and spacer, by pulling the bolt and ap–
plying 98 N (10 kgf, 22.0 lbf) of pressure.

Front drive shaft thrust clearance:

Standard clearance 0.075 – 0.690 mm
(0.0030 – 0.0272 in.)
Maximum clearance 1.0 mm (0.039 in.)

If the measurement more than maximum, replace the steering knuckle outside and inside bushings.


You can also replace the spacer with a thicker one(in addition to, or instead of, replacing the bushings) to reduce the clearance. If you know where to find the part number for those. Which I do...of course.

owbro 07-07-2014 04:33 PM

Alright, I know it's been over a year but LC Engineering sells the OEM bushings and seals for $166 in case anyone new is looking into doing this job.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:30 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands