Slider Gusset kit....or no?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chattanooga, Tennessee
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Slider Gusset kit....or no?
I recently bought some sliders and I bought the gusset kit as well. To me it seems that the gusset kit will add a lot of support but I see that some people dont have it....what do you think????
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
Last edited by pisc2bn; 03-30-2010 at 01:15 PM.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sierra Nevada's or the Deserts of Las Vegas
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Use it! It will make the sliders less "flimsy" and make them sturdier as well as spread out the load being put on your frame. Think about it, that's alot of weight being put on the slider.
#3
Registered User
And just to confuse matters, don't use them.
When I bought my sliders from Sonoran Steel, I asked the owner about gussets for the sliders. They are Stubbs sliders, their Rubicon model.
What I was told is to not run gussets and to let them flex like they need to.
So, there ya go, two different opinions.
When I bought my sliders from Sonoran Steel, I asked the owner about gussets for the sliders. They are Stubbs sliders, their Rubicon model.
What I was told is to not run gussets and to let them flex like they need to.
So, there ya go, two different opinions.
#5
Registered User
Another vote for using them. Never heard the argument for letting them flex, but if Stubbs said it, then I guess it is probably valid. Nevertheless, I'd use them, especially since you already have them.
#7
Registered User
I thought the same thing. We were talking about the slider design and install tips. So, I figure I will ask about gussets, because they are a good thing, right? His response was so negative, I thought he would not sell me the sliders.
As I recall, the points he made against them are ,one, that the gussets cannot be very large. They only triangulate a short distance out from the frame, say 2" max. This is not a very large fraction of the overall slider width from the frame to the outside tube, so it does not do all that much for shortening the lever arm.
And, two, he pointed out that you are welding a thin piece of metal, say 1/4", to a larger tube. This creates a high load area in a small footprint on the top side of the tube where you can get failure of the tubing. If you do not have the gusset you spread the load over the weld from the tube to the scab plate and then from the scab plate to the frame, but the sliders flex upwards a bit more due to the slightly longer lever arm.
Anyway, he sounded like he talked from experience, so, I noted that and bought his sliders.
And looking at his site, I bought the HD-SKO's, the single kick out all tube sliders with 1.75" tubing.
As I recall, the points he made against them are ,one, that the gussets cannot be very large. They only triangulate a short distance out from the frame, say 2" max. This is not a very large fraction of the overall slider width from the frame to the outside tube, so it does not do all that much for shortening the lever arm.
And, two, he pointed out that you are welding a thin piece of metal, say 1/4", to a larger tube. This creates a high load area in a small footprint on the top side of the tube where you can get failure of the tubing. If you do not have the gusset you spread the load over the weld from the tube to the scab plate and then from the scab plate to the frame, but the sliders flex upwards a bit more due to the slightly longer lever arm.
Anyway, he sounded like he talked from experience, so, I noted that and bought his sliders.
And looking at his site, I bought the HD-SKO's, the single kick out all tube sliders with 1.75" tubing.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
if you go without gussets, i'd definitely make sure to have 4 legs instead of 3 on them. i've heard theories on why to not include gussets and those have to do with placing the main horizontal bar directly underneath the pinch weld of your body - this way, when the slider flexes, it has contact all the way across it with your pinch weld, thus helping to distribute the weight with the body. still doesn't sound like a great idea, but i'm assuming that's the reason for not including them. what do you think is stronger, an "L" shaped protrusion or a "triangulated/gusseted" protrusion? hmmm...i'll take the triangulated/gusseted sliders.
you could always install the sliders without gussets and add them later if you feel they flex too much for your likes. i would not, however, leave out the scab plates which reinforce your frame.
you could always install the sliders without gussets and add them later if you feel they flex too much for your likes. i would not, however, leave out the scab plates which reinforce your frame.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chattanooga, Tennessee
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can see the theory of the triangular support piercing the metal tubing. However, if welded correctly, with a few passes of weld, it will evenly distribute the load along the tube. I have thought of the design of just welding it to the frame, but I am thinking that the "flexing" will damage the frame. Also, just the round shape welded to the frame will absolutely not be as strong as it would be by using the gusset and triangular support. If the slider "flexes" upward it isn't really "sliding" is it? After all, they are called "sliders" not "flexers". I don't want it to flex so much it blocks my doors and I gotta bust out the sledge or torch or crawl out a window. I think I am gonna go with the gusset kit and just do a few more passes with the MIG. Thanks for all the input everyone!
Last edited by pisc2bn; 03-30-2010 at 01:14 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kawazx636
The Classifieds GraveYard
34
10-06-2021 03:03 PM
Toys4parts
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
2
09-26-2015 01:56 PM
FS[PacNorWest]: 1987 4Runner SAS, 22RE, 5Spd, Dual Cases, etc
toyotasaurus
Vehicles - Trailers (Complete)
0
09-24-2015 03:30 PM