Should I buy this truck 1994 V6 3.0...
#1
Should I buy this truck 1994 V6 3.0...
Hi,
I am looking to buy a truck for the past few months and came across a really nice one.
1994 Toyota V6 3.0 DX
116,000 Miles
AC
Head Gasket recalled at 78,000
BFG tires
No Bed Liner
I haven't seen it yet, but pics show no body rust
Car looks super clean
Asking $5,500
I spoke to the guy and he says he rarely used the 4x4 and did no off roading at all. It's his 3rd car and gets used maybe once a week, hence the low mileage.
What should I ask and look for when viewing this truck (in two days). I know the price is about as high as it gets, but what would be a good price to at least open with? He claims to have received an offer of 5,100.
Thanks for the help
I am looking to buy a truck for the past few months and came across a really nice one.
1994 Toyota V6 3.0 DX
116,000 Miles
AC
Head Gasket recalled at 78,000
BFG tires
No Bed Liner
I haven't seen it yet, but pics show no body rust
Car looks super clean
Asking $5,500
I spoke to the guy and he says he rarely used the 4x4 and did no off roading at all. It's his 3rd car and gets used maybe once a week, hence the low mileage.
What should I ask and look for when viewing this truck (in two days). I know the price is about as high as it gets, but what would be a good price to at least open with? He claims to have received an offer of 5,100.
Thanks for the help
#4
Registered User
4500 cash it looks nice and is low miles good thing its a stick too. Just ask about maintnence hes done regular oil change, radiator, fuel, spark plugs, ect small stuff. Look for responces that show any kind of lack of care and use it to get the price down more if theres any doubt. Look for dents, rust, tires/spare tire. Look for any leaks from diffs, oil pan area, radiator. Good luck i hope this helps you
#5
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first, verify the milage via different ways, dealer maint. record, oil change receipts, etc. i bought my 4runner in may '07 for $3500 with 128k miles, 94 3.0V6, stick. PO had a non-major frontal accident, frame was un-touched but the bumper, radiator, all the hoses, water pump, time belt were brand new. along it comes with a whole stack of records. i called Toyota had the recall checked out before i test drove it.
if i were you with $5500, i'd wait till i find a 96+ with the more reliable, more powerful 3.4L. just don't wannt deal with the 3VZ-E. it pops up some times on craig's list.
if i were you with $5500, i'd wait till i find a 96+ with the more reliable, more powerful 3.4L. just don't wannt deal with the 3VZ-E. it pops up some times on craig's list.
#6
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Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
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That's a nice looking rig.
1) Do a history report. Accidents, smogs, like was mentioned above, anything to verify the miles. Otherwise that is a very low miles rig.
2) Get service records if possible from the guy. Where did he have it serviced? Did he do everything properly? Did he use stock parts or aftermarket parts? If aftermarket, what type of aftermarket parts? Did he change the spark plugs every 25,000 to 30,000 miles? Air filter every 6-12 monthes? Oil every 3000-5000 miles-ish? How about the fluid in the differentials, transmission, and transfer case? Power steering, brake, & clutch fluid? Coolant? Has the A/C ever needed to be recharged, does it blow cold?
3) Any accidents? Decks?
4) Have a look under the truck. Look near where the transmission bolts to the engine - is there any oil there or evidence of oil? Find the oil cooler -it's close to that, any oil there? Look in the engine bay - look underneath the valve covers, any oil or built up sludge there? Also, check the rad - any pinholes or areas of discolouration? Has he used Pink Toyota coolant or similar? Does the truck burn any oil, has the guy had to add any oil at all regularly? If so how much between changes?
5) Suspension - how does the truck feel when you drive it? Ask the guy if he has had an alignment done at all? Also, you might want to get the truck into a good shop if it drives kinda funny at allo and check the alignment as well as have them confirm the ball joints and idler arm (both normal wear items on these trucks) are in good shape. The rear suspension appears a bit saggy - perhaps time for some new springs - I highly recommend OME (Old Man Emu) Medium duty springs for normal use, or Heavy duty springs if you haul lots as replacement packs. Does the truck have any excessive body roll? Push down on truck right above each shock. If it bounces up and stays relatively still the shocks should still be ok. If it bounces around a lot then it could need new shocks. I recommend either sticking with stock replacements (nice and soft and give a comfy ride) or going with Bilsteins (if you want a firmer, sportier ride). If you get it up to highway speeds is there any excessive vibration? It might need a new steering stabilizer potentially - just somethign to watch for. How is the wear on the tires? Have then been rotated properly and kept inflated properly? Any cupping or uneven wear? How much tread is left? Are they BFG All Terrains or something else?
5) Going to body rust - are you sure there is no body rust? Check underneath the front fender lips. Is there any rust in behind there? You need to feel up there with your fingers - run your finger along the fender lip in behind the plastic pieces there. Also, Open the front doors and if you look in the door sill there is a little crack in the door well in the front portion towards the front of the truck. Shine a flashlight in there. Sometimes mud and rocks accumulate here and you should spray it out once and a while. Yes I know, you'd think it'd be impossible to get behind the mudflaps and the fender well plastic pieces but it does happen. This mud/dirt can become damp and can cause rust so it's just something to be on top of.
6) Brakes - have the brakes been done? If so, what were they replaced with? Stock or aftermarket? I would imagine if the guy is a conservative driver he could still very well have the original rotors on and they might have been turned once by now. Does the truck nose dive at all? If so the rear brakes could be out of adjustment? Has the owner had the rear braker adjusted?
I must say that is a very nice looking truck. LIke Jay said, that truck in Vancouver, BC, Canada would fetch about $10,000 or more Canadian. These trucks have insane resale value up there but that's becuase we have places up here where you can use them - mountanous terrain - lots of off the beaten path fishing, hutning, and camping spots. etc.
1) Do a history report. Accidents, smogs, like was mentioned above, anything to verify the miles. Otherwise that is a very low miles rig.
2) Get service records if possible from the guy. Where did he have it serviced? Did he do everything properly? Did he use stock parts or aftermarket parts? If aftermarket, what type of aftermarket parts? Did he change the spark plugs every 25,000 to 30,000 miles? Air filter every 6-12 monthes? Oil every 3000-5000 miles-ish? How about the fluid in the differentials, transmission, and transfer case? Power steering, brake, & clutch fluid? Coolant? Has the A/C ever needed to be recharged, does it blow cold?
3) Any accidents? Decks?
4) Have a look under the truck. Look near where the transmission bolts to the engine - is there any oil there or evidence of oil? Find the oil cooler -it's close to that, any oil there? Look in the engine bay - look underneath the valve covers, any oil or built up sludge there? Also, check the rad - any pinholes or areas of discolouration? Has he used Pink Toyota coolant or similar? Does the truck burn any oil, has the guy had to add any oil at all regularly? If so how much between changes?
5) Suspension - how does the truck feel when you drive it? Ask the guy if he has had an alignment done at all? Also, you might want to get the truck into a good shop if it drives kinda funny at allo and check the alignment as well as have them confirm the ball joints and idler arm (both normal wear items on these trucks) are in good shape. The rear suspension appears a bit saggy - perhaps time for some new springs - I highly recommend OME (Old Man Emu) Medium duty springs for normal use, or Heavy duty springs if you haul lots as replacement packs. Does the truck have any excessive body roll? Push down on truck right above each shock. If it bounces up and stays relatively still the shocks should still be ok. If it bounces around a lot then it could need new shocks. I recommend either sticking with stock replacements (nice and soft and give a comfy ride) or going with Bilsteins (if you want a firmer, sportier ride). If you get it up to highway speeds is there any excessive vibration? It might need a new steering stabilizer potentially - just somethign to watch for. How is the wear on the tires? Have then been rotated properly and kept inflated properly? Any cupping or uneven wear? How much tread is left? Are they BFG All Terrains or something else?
5) Going to body rust - are you sure there is no body rust? Check underneath the front fender lips. Is there any rust in behind there? You need to feel up there with your fingers - run your finger along the fender lip in behind the plastic pieces there. Also, Open the front doors and if you look in the door sill there is a little crack in the door well in the front portion towards the front of the truck. Shine a flashlight in there. Sometimes mud and rocks accumulate here and you should spray it out once and a while. Yes I know, you'd think it'd be impossible to get behind the mudflaps and the fender well plastic pieces but it does happen. This mud/dirt can become damp and can cause rust so it's just something to be on top of.
6) Brakes - have the brakes been done? If so, what were they replaced with? Stock or aftermarket? I would imagine if the guy is a conservative driver he could still very well have the original rotors on and they might have been turned once by now. Does the truck nose dive at all? If so the rear brakes could be out of adjustment? Has the owner had the rear braker adjusted?
I must say that is a very nice looking truck. LIke Jay said, that truck in Vancouver, BC, Canada would fetch about $10,000 or more Canadian. These trucks have insane resale value up there but that's becuase we have places up here where you can use them - mountanous terrain - lots of off the beaten path fishing, hutning, and camping spots. etc.
#7
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Price is very dependent on where you are. I've seen those go for $4000 and as high as $6000. It looks like the only thing wrong with it now is the notorious Toyota rear spring sag. Easy fix.
Drive it, engage 4WD in some dirt. Have someone follow you on the street with another vehicle. Often if a vehicle has been straightened after an accident it will look like it is not quite tracking straight. Do this after you do all the checks mentioned by others.
Drive it, engage 4WD in some dirt. Have someone follow you on the street with another vehicle. Often if a vehicle has been straightened after an accident it will look like it is not quite tracking straight. Do this after you do all the checks mentioned by others.
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#8
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Repainted ?
I have a blk. '93...it has the large original stripe on the side. From a distance ...this trk looks to have been repainted. Ask him..or look yourself in person. It may have been wrecked.
#9
No i have yet to see the truck, only spoke via phone. So I can not confirm the absence of body rust.
I'm going to do a car fax report and ask that he have all his maintenance records on hand when I come by and check it out. Car fax should be enough to confirm the mileage, correct.
I don't see any rear sag, how can you see that or tell?
I do plan on taking it to a mechanic in his area before purchase, what does such a check up normally run?
From my conversation with him, this in an entirerly bone stock truck. No aftermarket mods or anything.
He came across as only knowing at what point he had the head gasket recalled. In fact he didn't know if his was a SR5 or DX (he had the original window price tag to confirm)
I'm going to do a car fax report and ask that he have all his maintenance records on hand when I come by and check it out. Car fax should be enough to confirm the mileage, correct.
I don't see any rear sag, how can you see that or tell?
I do plan on taking it to a mechanic in his area before purchase, what does such a check up normally run?
From my conversation with him, this in an entirerly bone stock truck. No aftermarket mods or anything.
He came across as only knowing at what point he had the head gasket recalled. In fact he didn't know if his was a SR5 or DX (he had the original window price tag to confirm)
#10
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Price is right depending on your location.
I bought my '93 with 69,500mi., one owner a few months back for that price, same truck, different colors.
I live in Pennsylvania and could resell it all day long and not lose a cent, even could get back what I already put into it with mods I have done.
WARNING: If you expect it to be anything like a Tacoma DON'T buy it!
I used to have a Tacoma and miss it desperately!
Tacoma was more comfortable, more powerful, more reliable, and with factory TRD package(w. e-locker) more capable!
Also, it is getting harder believe or not to find aftermarket support, tons of parts are still made for Tacoma, not so for the earlier trucks!
Alot of them are rusted out junk, I do see sister trucks here but, I see ten times as many Tacomas.
I do like having something different, shes definitely a prize to some, so if you really want a earlier model buy it, if you just want a Toyota truck, get a TRD Tacoma with an E-locker and 3.4 and let someone else appreciate her!
I bought my '93 with 69,500mi., one owner a few months back for that price, same truck, different colors.
I live in Pennsylvania and could resell it all day long and not lose a cent, even could get back what I already put into it with mods I have done.
WARNING: If you expect it to be anything like a Tacoma DON'T buy it!
I used to have a Tacoma and miss it desperately!
Tacoma was more comfortable, more powerful, more reliable, and with factory TRD package(w. e-locker) more capable!
Also, it is getting harder believe or not to find aftermarket support, tons of parts are still made for Tacoma, not so for the earlier trucks!
Alot of them are rusted out junk, I do see sister trucks here but, I see ten times as many Tacomas.
I do like having something different, shes definitely a prize to some, so if you really want a earlier model buy it, if you just want a Toyota truck, get a TRD Tacoma with an E-locker and 3.4 and let someone else appreciate her!
#11
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Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
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No i have yet to see the truck, only spoke via phone. So I can not confirm the absence of body rust.
I'm going to do a car fax report and ask that he have all his maintenance records on hand when I come by and check it out. Car fax should be enough to confirm the mileage, correct.
I don't see any rear sag, how can you see that or tell?
I do plan on taking it to a mechanic in his area before purchase, what does such a check up normally run?
From my conversation with him, this in an entirerly bone stock truck. No aftermarket mods or anything.
He came across as only knowing at what point he had the head gasket recalled. In fact he didn't know if his was a SR5 or DX (he had the original window price tag to confirm)
I'm going to do a car fax report and ask that he have all his maintenance records on hand when I come by and check it out. Car fax should be enough to confirm the mileage, correct.
I don't see any rear sag, how can you see that or tell?
I do plan on taking it to a mechanic in his area before purchase, what does such a check up normally run?
From my conversation with him, this in an entirerly bone stock truck. No aftermarket mods or anything.
He came across as only knowing at what point he had the head gasket recalled. In fact he didn't know if his was a SR5 or DX (he had the original window price tag to confirm)
Rear sag on these trucks is easy to spot. The first way to tell by picture is to look at the space in the wheel wells and compare it from front to back - but this is all by eyeand what we saw by a picture. The space is basically what you see from the edge of the fender trim to the top of the tire. The exacting way to tell if you want to be anal is to take a tape measure and measure from the edge of the fender trim to the top of the wheel. This measurement will always be a good way to do it because there are no variables that can reall affect it. If the gaps are all about the same, then there shoudn't be any rear sag. Typically in the 14" give or take range. Now if you had say 14" in the front and 12" or less in the rear, that would tell you right away you have a bit of sag, on top of it being recognizeable to the eye. I don't know, it must be the Plumber in me too - You develop an eye that you can walk into a room and tell if a pipe isn't level or it's backgrading. These trucks are so much better looking with the rear slightly higher than the front. It gives them a "poised" and ready for a load type of stance. I know when my truck had it's rear springs done, that there was a cracked spring on each side. The stock springs in these things aren't bad new but get some good aftermarket ones and it'll really make a difference. OME is again a good, reputable spring to go with.
Assuming you have a good, reputable mechanic who knows a thing or two about Toyota's, expect to put a bit of $$$ into a good thorough go-over and potentially an alignment if one hasn't been done. Also remember that when you're buying a truck, especially, that there is always a $1000 or more that you may need to spend just to get the truck the way you want it or to change something or repair something (i.e. a spray on bedliner or something like that)- those types of things.
By the sounds of things though I think this truck will be a solid offering and if the guy maintained it you'll have a nice solid rig that should last you a long time.
One more thing - have a look at the "4WD" on the mudflaps. Is it slightly faded? If the 4WD is slightly faded those would be original mudflaps.
Last edited by CoedNaked; 09-04-2007 at 06:43 PM.
#12
Truck was sold the day before I got there.
Selling price was $5,500
Thanks for all your help.
I am now focused on a 1996/97 Tacoma ext. cab with the 3.4L
If you know of one for sale in and around N. California, send me an email at:
kingsac AT hotmail . Com
Selling price was $5,500
Thanks for all your help.
I am now focused on a 1996/97 Tacoma ext. cab with the 3.4L
If you know of one for sale in and around N. California, send me an email at:
kingsac AT hotmail . Com
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