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Scary Video of my 3VZ-E Oil Pressure

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Old 04-14-2011, 07:45 AM
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Scary Video of my 3VZ-E Oil Pressure

I just got this truck and love it. Dropped a rebuilt 3vze engine into it but am too scared to even drive it because of basically no oil pressure after it warms up. Any brilliant suggestions? Sending Unit wasn't the problem, and we stuck a mechanical gauge on it and got the same reading. Currently has 4 fresh quarts Castrol GTX 10/30 and .8 quarts Lucas Oil.



[youtube]vn6I2-vkmoc[/youtube]

Don't know why there are 2 videos.

Last edited by bsk83; 04-14-2011 at 08:05 AM.
Old 04-14-2011, 07:56 AM
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Did you buy the engine rebuilt or did you rebuild it yourself?
Old 04-14-2011, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by yotaman90
Did you buy the engine rebuilt or did you rebuild it yourself?
Bought it that way.
Old 04-14-2011, 08:07 AM
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Did it come with any sort of warranty? If so I would take the engine back to the builder and have them take a look at it. I mean if thats feasible

Last edited by yotaman90; 04-14-2011 at 08:13 AM. Reason: Spelling
Old 04-14-2011, 08:07 AM
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ok just looked it up and at idle it should be 4.3 and above and at 3000 it should be from 36 to 75. so it sounds like u have a bad pump or the relief valve is bad,


http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...t/oilpress.pdf

and for the relief valve
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...at/oilpump.pdf

Last edited by justin_4runner; 04-14-2011 at 08:09 AM. Reason: added links
Old 04-14-2011, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by yotaman90
Dis it come with any sort of warranty? If so I would take the engine back to the builder and have them take a look at it. I mean if thats feasible
no warranty, took it from another vehicle. The dealership wants $110 to diagnose it.
Old 04-14-2011, 08:22 AM
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I would check the oil pump/relief valve using the steps outlined in the links from justin_4runner. You could take it to the stealership if you want, but it will be much more expensive. But if you have other means of transportation, use that instead of your truck until the problem can be properly diagnosed.
Old 04-14-2011, 08:23 AM
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Change your filter and retest.
Old 04-14-2011, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by yotaman90
I would check the oil pump/relief valve using the steps outlined in the links from justin_4runner. You could take it to the stealership if you want, but it will be much more expensive. But if you have other means of transportation, use that instead of your truck until the problem can be properly diagnosed.
Ya I'm not driving it til its fixed. I apologize if this is a stupid question, but if its the oil pump/relief valve wouldn't the oil pressure always be bad, even when cold?
Old 04-14-2011, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Sportsmanphil
Change your filter and retest.
Brand new filter from toyota
Old 04-14-2011, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bsk83
Brand new filter from toyota
Did you try a second filter or is this the only one used thus far? I have had bad filters starve engines in the past.
Old 04-14-2011, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bsk83
if its the oil pump/relief valve wouldn't the oil pressure always be bad, even when cold?
Honestly, I don't know. How is the oil pressure with the engine cold? Maybe post a video of that?
Old 04-14-2011, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Sportsmanphil
Did you try a second filter or is this the only one used thus far? I have had bad filters starve engines in the past.
third filter
Old 04-14-2011, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by yotaman90
Honestly, I don't know. How is the oil pressure with the engine cold? Maybe post a video of that?
When Cold, the oil pressure is about in the middle of the gauge. Then you can watch it slowly go down to nothing as it warms up. It reaches 0 oil pressure after 10 minutes of idling.

Last edited by bsk83; 04-14-2011 at 08:39 AM.
Old 04-14-2011, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bsk83
When Cold, the oil pressure is about in the middle of the gauge. Then you can watch it slowly go down to nothing as it warms up. It reaches 0 oil pressure after 10 minutes of idling.
My 22RE does the same thing but when you raise the RPM, it does increase to a normal level. THe idle pressure doesnt look abnormal, but it should show better results at higher RPM.

What was your pressure at 3K when tested with a gauge?
Old 04-14-2011, 08:48 AM
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oil is thicker when cold, that's why u get a higher reading when first starting it up. after it warms up it thins out a little causing the lower pressure.
Old 04-14-2011, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Sportsmanphil
My 22RE does the same thing but when you raise the RPM, it does increase to a normal level. THe idle pressure doesnt look abnormal, but it should show better results at higher RPM.

What was your pressure at 3K when tested with a gauge?
After its completely warmed up, the oil pressure stays on L, even at 3k RPM, confirmed by a mechanical gauge.
Old 04-14-2011, 08:59 AM
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Another problem I have run into in the past. Some people use silicon/RTV to seal the oil pan. I have seen too much used and it squeeze out on the inside and fall in the pan. This will end up clogging up the pickup. Was your oil pan installed with a gasket or RTV? If so, it might be worth pulling the oilpan and checking the pickup for a clog.
Old 04-14-2011, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Sportsmanphil
Another problem I have run into in the past. Some people use silicon/RTV to seal the oil pan. I have seen too much used and it squeeze out on the inside and fall in the pan. This will end up clogging up the pickup. Was your oil pan installed with a gasket or RTV? If so, it might be worth pulling the oilpan and checking the pickup for a clog.
Don't know what they used. But again, if this was the problem, wouldn't the oil pressure always be bad, even when cold?
Old 04-14-2011, 09:43 AM
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Not necessarily, you can look on the side of the engine block, between the block and pan and determine if RTV was used.


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