Chuki

Just about got my 90' back together, before I put the timing cover and stuff back on I wanted to make sure everything was fine.

Well its running pretty rough, I've doubled checked my timing belt, when I rotate the crankshaft and stuff by hand, the timing marks all align back up with when I have the crankshaft at "0", I stuck a timing light on it, and its at 5* I know it should be 10 but at 5 it should be idling ok.

Any ideas where to start checking? How can I tell if all my injectors are firing?

My CEL doesn't work so I can use that

I noticed if I unplugged about 2 cylinder ( #1 , & #3) It ran smoother (not fine but smoother) but I could tell alot less cylinders we're firing.

Chuki

Well if I unplug any cylinder it doesn't make much of a diffrence, to me it sounds like timing, but I'm sure I have my timing distributor and cam timing correct. If I didn't wouldn't my timing mark be way oughta whack?

I have my firing order and everything correct, I've triple checked that.

celica

first get it to the right timing. 5* is too little for the 3.0. Set it at 10* - you will find a big difference. A lot of us run them at 12-15* I personally do mine at 12-13* and have for almost 8 years

Chuki

Bumped it up to 10* no diffrence...

It just seems to be the idle, when I rev it sounds good, I'd say at 2000RPM or so its nice and smooth, idle it runs really rough again.


Just checked the online FSM, I'm gonna try disconnecting my cold start injector.

Chuki

Cold start injector didn't make a diffrence, even under highrpm it still runs rough but not bad at all, I would say around 2000-2500RPM its pretty normal...

Another question, in the FSM it states a misfire or rough idle could be the coolant temp sensor, right now I don't have any coolant or water in it, I just wanted to check and make sure my cam timing was ok. I haven't ran it for even more then 30 seconds, I just turn it on and make sure it was ok. I'm going to go ahead and finish putting everything back on, as the problem from here on out I think I can fix without having take the timing cover and stuff back off.

Bumpin' Yota

I say you need a shocking experience - go grab a screwdriver and while its running pull each plug wire and stick the screw driver up the insulated boot...you'll know if the plug is getting juice! My ignition system shocked me pretty good when I was checking which cylinders were and weren't firing...

But basically find out if each cylinder is getting spark...if they all are then do a compression test...

The toyota FSM also states that all plug wires should meter out to 25ohms resistance or less, so check that out

Chuki

I checked every single wire, I put a screw driver on most of the injectors I could...


But I got it fixed!!!!!!!

I got to wonder why since I've just been idling the damn thing, why my EGR pipe is getting hot, specially since my engine isn't up to temperature. I had a hunch and pulled the vacumm line off the EGR valve and plugged, and voila!!! idling beautifuly!!!!

Bumpin' Yota

huh so what was wrong that you had to correct? And how did you fix it? Is the egr bad?

Chuki

LOL....

I had my vacumm lines for my EGR backwards. During warm up and idle the EGR should be closed, only time the EGR valve should open is when your crusin. Well instead of keeping my valve closed, it was pulling it open at idle.

I got it running yesterday and initially it was running rough, but a buddy I know at Toyota said to just drive it, and keep an eye on it, and if it doesn't clear up after a day or 2, then something is wrong. What he was implying was that after cleaning my intake, egr, and my heads, my computer might have to readjust, well it did and today its running like a dream!