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-   -   Replacing Wheel Cylinders (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/replacing-wheel-cylinders-147655/)

Amacfarl 06-17-2008 05:31 PM

Replacing Wheel Cylinders
 
I need to replace the rear wheel cylinders on my 87 4Runner.

How difficult of a job is this? I have air tools etc., just never attempted this before.

Also, how much should it cost for either a general mechanic to do it for me or a dealer to do it (I know big bucks for the dealer, but what would be an estimate?)

Thanks for the help

DeathCougar 06-17-2008 05:33 PM

Depends on your mechanical skill really.

They are actually quite simple to do, just require a little time and a helper to bleed it when you are done.

Amacfarl 06-17-2008 05:38 PM


Originally Posted by DeathCougar (Post 50853902)
Depends on your mechanical skill really.

They are actually quite simple to do, just require a little time and a helper to bleed it when you are done.

I've done regular things - brakes, clutch etc. Clutch took me about 12 hours though. Any guess how long it would take someone with decent experience but never done this particular job before?

JDMSLIK 06-17-2008 05:51 PM

I did em on a micra last night. Took about an hour and a bit, but I took my time. A mechanic will charge you about an hour labour if it goes smooth. They're not that difficult. You just goota be pretty carful with lines. They have a tendency to rust/weld to the flare nut. I ussually wd em real good before if there rusty and then hit em with a bit of heat from a little propane torch.
If they are completely rusted on and you want to stear clear of replacing or repairing your lines, you can try and leave the flare nut stuck to the line and just spin the cylinder off the line.
Make sure you use flare nut wrenches too, cheap ones will work fine.

Justinvd 06-17-2008 06:02 PM

If u have done brakes before u will have no problem. All you do is take you rear brakes apart : drums shoes springs and all that off.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...elCylinder.gif

Thats what it looks like from the front, there are two bolts on the back(atleast on mine i think) and the brake line attached. Use flare wrenches like said above cuz u do not want to strip those. Hit it with some type of penetrating fluid a bit before u attempt this. Some people said they have had to take the bleeder screw out but i never had too. Putting the new ones in is just as simple as taking them out. It took me about 20 minute to replace mine, the hard part was reasembling my brakes affter haha. Then bleed in this order when your done

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...d_02/index.jpg

Oh and when i worked at ford for a little while, they always got my to mark the drums in relation to the drum backing so i would put the drums back on in the exact same spots. Apparently if u just put them on randomly the wear patterns will change or something and create noises/vibrations. And u would be amazed and how many people come in complaining of noises that we can never hear when we go for the road tests.

JDMSLIK 06-17-2008 06:06 PM

another tip with drum brakes. Do one side at a time. It's easier to have one as a reference with all those springs and such.

RobD 06-17-2008 06:24 PM


Originally Posted by JDMSLIK (Post 50853936)
another tip with drum brakes. Do one side at a time. It's easier to have one as a reference with all those springs and such.

What he said...that's probably the best advice.

Amacfarl 06-17-2008 07:01 PM

Thanks for all the help. You guys are great.


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