cbeaudin

Replaced the head gasket on my 94 3VZE. Put everything back together. When turning the engine over I am not getting any spark. I hooked a test light up to the coil and I am not getting anything out of it.

Any thoughts on why I am not getting any spark? I checked all my grounds and they all appear to be ok.
If I put the distributor back in wrong, would that cause the coil to not fire?

ksti

Just a couple of simple things to check right now.

80 amp fuse.
Fusible link to fuse box.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Check the coil wire on the coil side if the wire was not removed .

I am good for pulling the wire out enough to cause a open circuit

cbeaudin

I've checked all the related fuses in the engine compartment box, and the drivers kick panel. I think there was only one related fuse in the kick panel (ecu). I removed the wire from the coil to the distributor and checked for output from there. Nothing. I removed the wiring harnesses from the coil and cleaned those as well. Still nothing. I think the ground for that goes to the driver side head. I removed and cleaned that as well. Still no joy.

ksti

Are you able to check for any codes that may be stored?
Do you have a K&N filter attached to your VAM?
I would check the VAM for spec.

cbeaudin

@ksti. That shouldn't have an effect on not getting a spark should it?

ksti

Well, the Volume Air Flow Meter gives information to the ECU for spark and fuel measurements.
I'm not saying that's the problem, I'm trying to help you with some simple tasks to start.
The oil on K&N filters can reek havoc on a VAM.

There are other possibilities also.
It's possible one of the three pick-ups in the distributor is not working.
If you have a FSM pull it out and start testing.
Check for codes as I mentioned.

I'am not a 3vze expert and Iearn something new all the time.
My FSM is my go to in situations like this.
Maybe some of the other 3vze guys have some more input so you can get this figured out.

cbeaudin

I do have these two harnesses on the passenger side. I can't find where either of them go. I seem to recall the smaller one never being hooked to anything.
Also, can I pull any codes without the engine running?

ksti

Hmmm, The plug with your thumb on it should go to the AC idle up switch, which I don't see in your pic. It looks there are the two mounting holes for it.

I would have to check the one on the right on my rig., but it is at my shop right now and won't see it until next Tuesday, sorry.

And yes pull codes without engine running.
Use a paper clip

cbeaudin

Ah. Well, I don't have an AC, so it makes sense that it doesn't have anywhere to go. Sure wish I did. I'll go check for error codes now. Thanks.

cbeaudin

I'm not getting any codes.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

the bigger plugs looks like it could be the EGR Temp sensor plug, but sound like ksti could be right since you don't have any codes

ksti

No Start Condition: Ignition and Coil Test Info for 3VZE (89-95) it is taken from the Snap-On e-newsletter. I don't know the date on this, but thought it might be helpful to my fellow Toyota owners. Anyone with a 3.0 V6 that can verify that this information is good and useful, I would appreciate it. Hope this is helpful to you guys.

Tech Tip: No Spark and/or No Injector Pulse on Toyota

Application: 1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4-Runner with 3VZE Engine.

Symptom: No Start.

Theory: The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter and Coil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.

The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.

Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal

Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200 ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On the Igniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniter connector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.

The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.

cbeaudin

Thanks for the info ksti. All the measurements of the wires at the distributor check out.
Positive wire at the coil lights up the test light.
Verified the rotor is rotating in the distributor.
Checked the connections at the starter and they appear fine.

I've replaced the both the coil and the ignition control module.
Still getting nothing out of the lead from the coil.

scope103

I was thinking the igniter (ignition control module), but those are difficult to test. But if you've replaced it, you can check the wiring around it.

This might get you started:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...gniter-287857/
At a minimum, check that you get 12v with key-on on the correct terminals.

(By the way, the igniter grounds through the mounting bolts. Don't try to start it with the igniter loose, or with the ground wire between the block and the igniter mounting bolts disconnected.)

cbeaudin

Update.
When I disconnect the air flow sensor harness I get spark. I also get a CEL code 24.

cbeaudin

I replaced the air flow sensor/monitor.
Truck still turns over, but fails to start.
When I turn the key to on, the CEL stays on.
When I jump the diagnostic port, the CEL flashes rapidly and doesn't stop.

cbeaudin

Update: It's fixed!

I broke down and took it into a local Toyota repair shop. Talked for a bit with their 3VZE specialist on all the things I tried. After a day or two he called back and said he replaced the distributor. Not sure how mine went bad sitting in my garage for a month or two. But it's running now.

Thanks for all the input everyone.