Rebuilt 22re first oil change
 

Just hit my first 500 miles so it's time for an oil change.. I know this question has been asked multiple times but I want an input from the regulars from this day and age. Here are my questions.

Synthetic or conventional?
Do I need to continue my zinc additive?
10w30?
Oil filter suggestion?

Price is not a problem when it comes to oil for me. I don't want the over best oil, I want oil that the 22re thinks is best!
Input by experience please!

There have been hundreds of thousands of 22re's worldwide that have made 250,000+ miles and never tasted any synthetic oil.

Any decent oil that is changed every 3000-4000 miles will serve you well.

One more dose of zinc could'nt hurt. 10-30 should be fine for your tight engine.

If you want to use synthetic oil do a compression test first. This will tell you if the rings have seated or not. My guess is the rings have seated by now and your good to go.

I would use oil that has a high zinc content, it will help with the engine breakin but thats just from reading and heresay so it's up to you what to do.

I would run the zinc longer. I agree with millball. But, synthetic is fine. It's used a lot, in many applications. In a liquid cooled engine, that doesn't get that hot, i.e. no turbo, I think a good conventional is fine. I run Valvoline Max, I think it is called. Which is the high mileage blend, 10W40. As stated 10w30 should be good in your fresh engine. Many options and opinions!

Personally I use the cheapest conventional oil I can get, but I change the oil every 3K miles,if not before. The engine builders "22re Performance", say never use synthetic in these motors. Most people have their own preference, and these motors will perform well on whatever you put in them. I am just an advocate of always having clean oil. The only reason not to run high zinc is due to cat. converter failure, if you dont have a cat, run it all the time.

Also, buy a case of Toyota filters from Amazon, about the same price as Walmart cheapies. There are two options: yzzd1 or the yzzd3 filters. The yzzd3 are longer with more filter area. The yzzd1 are shorter. I have a case of both. 10w30 is fine. Another point, Autozone sells oil plug thread sealant at the check out counter, I love this stuff. It works great, never a leak and you don't have to keep replacing crush washers. Hope this helps........

:nopity:on older trucks and cars a 3000 mile change is very good , but myself these days I go about 4000 with my 2014 Chevy I drive now. My GF has it most of the time driving back and forth to work so I don't get to drive it very often but when I do I do everything I need to and bring it home, even tho I have to listen to her talk to me about the gas I use, lmao:nopity:

:think: For what it is worth right now I am using Napa oil I have no idea what it even costs .

I can`t get into the whole synthetic oil game because it still needs to be changed.

Then it could be me being old school and having used regular oil all my life on some very expensive engines.

Just one of those things changing it is important no matter what one uses.

I consider the 22r valvetrain a somewhat higher wear design and as such I wouldn't push the oil change intervals past 3,500 mi despite what the factory said. As oil gets used the viscosity thins so there is less of a cushioning action between high wear areas.

Also as you extend the mileage on the filter it gathers more grit and at some point its effectiveness comes into question. At some point contaminants can create a partial restriction to flow. You always want a good supply of filtered oil to high wear areas to help prevent heat and wear. If the restriction is high enough the filters bypass will momentarily allow some dirty oil to go through the filter without being filtered.
Both of these situations increase the probably of increased wear. That's part of why larger oil filters are a popular option.

I try to stay away from oil labeled Energy Conserving. They generally have less antiwear additives that our cam and rockers will appreciate in the long run.

Just throwing this out there I know it has nothing to do with what the op asked but I see some people throwing around intervals. I was always taught 3000 mi. New cars I've seen range 5-7k. The factory sticker on my air filter box recommends oil to be changed every 5000 and air filter every 10,000. Not saying I follow the 5k recommendation.

Just some food for thought.

Synthetics have more than proven their enhanced lubricity and heat dissipating abilities. I personally run nothing but Mobil One synthetic in everything I own that has an engine in it, cars, trucks, lawn mowers, ATV, etc. I recently rebuilt the 20R in my 1980 4X4 p/u and put Mobil One 5W-30 in it from start up. I am a professional mechanic with 40 years experience and work for a large trucking company. We run Mobil synthetic in all our company trucks and we do an oil analysis at every oil change on every truck and our oil analysis has proven the worth of synthetics. There are less wear metals in the oil samples with synthetics than there was with the mineral based oil. We have also been able to triple the oil change interval with synthetics over the old oil which saves our company hundreds of thousands of dollars a year. And as a bonus, the synthetic has increased our fuel mileage by 2%. Take my word for it, synthetics work and you can't go wrong with a good synthetic oil. If Mobil One is good enough for factory fill in Corvettes, it should be good in anything.

Before I had my engine rebuilt this past January, I used conventional Castrol oil 10-W30 both regular & High milage. I had no problems in my 90 4runner. Since the rebuild, ive been using Castrol synthetic 10W30, no issue as well. For a good filter I would recommend one from Toyota, mobile one or a WIX filter.