Coldforged

I went to get an alignment after getting new tires and with 270k on the runner I fully expected them to tell me that the front end needed some work before an alignment would be beneficial which is what they did. I am told that I need to replace:

Idler arm
Inner tie rod ends left and right sides
adjuster sleeves left and right sides
Pittman arm

Now I've never messed with the steering on the runner but it all looks pretty straight forward at a glance. Am I correct in assuming this?

I also would like to get some opinions as to where I should get these parts and whether or not I should stick with the OEM parts or are there better aftermarket kits out there?

The quote from the place was $790 to do all of this work which I why I will be staying up late freezing my butt off doing it myself

InternetRoadkill

It's easy to do, but you will need the proper pullers to get it apart, especially for the pitman arm. Autozone has them available as loaners here. ($790 is absurd for the job.)

Just stay with name brand parts or go with OEM if you're concerned. I replaced mine with McQuay-Norris and TRW pieces. They have lifetime warranties.

You might as well do the outer tie rods too as long as you have it apart.

Coldforged

Thanks for the info. I'm looking forward to getting some feeling back in my steering. The amount of play in the steering was becoming absurd.

86Original

You probably don't need a completely new idler. If you just get a bushing kit, ~$18, you can keep your existing idler. I went with new Toyota parts for the steering. Get the complete tie-rod assemblies. It's cheaper and easier. I'm surprised that the Pittman would need to be replaced. Mine's 20 years old, 260K and holding up.

ToyotaPartSales.com is probably the cheapest to get Toy parts. X2 on loaner tools from Autozone/Advance/Checker, or whoever. Don't use a pickle fork. Get a "screw-type" puller instead. Cleaner & less damage. Tap the side of the rod or knuckle a couple of times for each turn after the puller gets a little tight. The blow should be perpendicular to the centerline of the bolt/stud. This will loosen the cones and help them pop out easily.

HTH