rear window switch problem...weird
 

Weird problem here. When I turn the key in the tailgate, roll the window down, and leave the key in the keyhole turned whichever way causes the window to go down (ie: not in the neutral position) the window won't roll up when the key is turned the other way, unless I leave in the neutral position/ remove the key a minute or so. Turning the key during this minute will cause a relay flip somewhere (I can hear it), but the motor doesn't engage.

Its almost like something somewhere needs to cool off for a minute, which means.
:think:

well if your rig is like mine then you hear the relay snapping on the drivers side body wall i can hear mine even if the rear window dont go down

as for the key i dont get it you stick key in can turn it left or right and window goes down get it half way turn it left or right and window still goes down then you have to leave the key in the hole not turning and wait a minute then you can roll the window up?

cause i kinda dont under stand the problem here

If you stick the key in and turn it and leave the key turned in the keyhole after the window has gone down, then you have to return the key to the neutral position (straight up and down) and wait a minute before you can get the window up again.

well yeah your putting power to the rear window motor still the relays everything if you hold the key like that nto good just hold it untill the window goes down and let it go before you smoke something lol

Isn't there a limiter that cuts power when the window reached the top or bottom?

no i dont think so cause when i lower my window i all ways punch the down a few more times and i hear the motor try but cant lol

3 wires go to the rear switch. White/Blk (constant ground) is the signal in. Up position connects it to Grn/Red. Down position connects it to Grn/Yel. Both Green the Green/Red and the Green/Yellow wire go directly to the Rear Power Window control relay. I can scan the diagram at home if you'd like (no scanner at work, and the image is poor when screen-captured.) it's likely that a circuit breaker is within that control box.

I've actually got the fsm but thanks, used it to replace the relays for UP and DOWN in the back window control unit. I just am not well versed enough in electricals to figure out this particular problem.

Could you check if there is indeed a circuit breaker? I wouldn't know quite what to look for.

Much Appreciated,
Matt

My schematics do not show a C/B in the relay box. There is a "SOLID STATE" area that's grayed out, but a circuit breaker isn't solid so it shouldn't be in there.

Lemme go and try my window as you described. Hold on :)....

Nope. On my '95, I can turn and hold the key in the down position as long as I like, and it immediately goes back up when the key is reversed. The schematic on yours does not show a circuit breaker on the line between the control box and the motor, either. Since your key switch is only a signal to the control box, and the motor is working fine otherwise, I believe it's safe to assume your control box is on it's way out. You could confirm this by swapping with another box.

Or since you're good with electrics, make your own box without the silly computer. Honestly, I don't know why Toyota made it this complex in the first place. 2 switches, 2 relays, 1 motor... it isn't hard.

there's probably a heat switch in the motor...the motor gets too hot from being jammed and not being able to move, so the internal switch would cut power before the motor burns out. Keep doing it though and it'll burn out anyway. You're best to turn the key back to the neutral position.

UGGG. I just replaced the relays in there with beefier ones, that were supposed to last longer.

I "hot-wired the motor to the battery a while back and it seemed to me that the window moved a lot faster. I guess that means teh motor is good. That could be causing the resistance in the circuit?

Thanks Noltz for checking, I appreciate it.

Slower movement indicates reduced voltage, and thus current. That can only be caused by resistance. Be it undersized wires, bad relays, or shoddy contacts... it's gotta be fixed.

Seeing as the new relays didn't really fix much, where would you start on this little adventure.