Rear main seal question, yea i searched
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Rear main seal question, yea i searched
So searching around I found out that its not a bad idea to change out the rear main seal when I replace my clutch, but I have some questions.
Ive got the seal but do i need to replace the oil retainer too? Im kinda tight on money so I hope I dont have to.
When I change out the seal, do i need to drain the oil? (some one said yes when I searched, but others said no)
Should I put anything on the seal when i install it? (oil, grease, etc...)
Ive got the seal but do i need to replace the oil retainer too? Im kinda tight on money so I hope I dont have to.
When I change out the seal, do i need to drain the oil? (some one said yes when I searched, but others said no)
Should I put anything on the seal when i install it? (oil, grease, etc...)
#3
Contributing Member
why would you need to replace the oil retainer itself? I've never heard of having to do so its solid metal and just holds the seal in place
you shouldn't need to drain the oil; it'll all stay down in the pan below the retainer
just remove the 2 bolts holding the oil pan to it, and then remove the 5 bolts holding it to the bock, pop the seal out, pop the new one back in, clean the seal surface on the crank, put a little new oil on the seal area on the crank, and run a little around the new seal to lube it up, install the assembely back on with a new gasket and new RTV between it and the oil pan, and you're good to go
worst thing you might have to do is use one of the ready-sleeve kits if there's a deep grove in the crank, but it shouldn't be too big of a job once the flywheel's outta the way
I realize you're working with a 3.0, but the basid idea still stands correct me if I'm wrong
you shouldn't need to drain the oil; it'll all stay down in the pan below the retainer
just remove the 2 bolts holding the oil pan to it, and then remove the 5 bolts holding it to the bock, pop the seal out, pop the new one back in, clean the seal surface on the crank, put a little new oil on the seal area on the crank, and run a little around the new seal to lube it up, install the assembely back on with a new gasket and new RTV between it and the oil pan, and you're good to go
worst thing you might have to do is use one of the ready-sleeve kits if there's a deep grove in the crank, but it shouldn't be too big of a job once the flywheel's outta the way
I realize you're working with a 3.0, but the basid idea still stands correct me if I'm wrong
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 06-25-2009 at 03:16 PM.
#5
Registered User
My 2 cents: The retainer doesn't need to come off unless it's leaking. If you do take it off, you break the seal on the oil pan where the retainer goes and will likely develop a leak there. I have always just pulled the seal out of the retainer and pushed in a new one. Never had a problem with a new seal leaking. I would only remove the retainer if I planned to remove the oil pan and replace the gasket/FPIG also. Which isn't a bad idea in itself at this point because you can seal up the whole bottom side. Take care,
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Last edited by bugs1961; 06-25-2009 at 06:36 PM.
#6
Registered User
My 2 cents: The retainer doesn't need to come off unless it's leaking. If you do take it off, you break the seal on the oil pan where the retainer goes and will likely develop a leak there. I have always just pulled the seal out of the retainer and pushed in a new one. Never had a problem with a new seal leaking. I would only remove the retainer if I planned to remove the oil pan and replace the gasket/FPIG also. Which isn't a bad idea in itself at this point because you can seal up the whole bottom side. Take care,
Bugs
Bugs
#7
Contributing Member
good point bugs
you'll destroy the old rear main seal in the the removal, but it's not like that matters and then just slide the new one over the crank and tap it into place
good call on that one!
you'll destroy the old rear main seal in the the removal, but it's not like that matters and then just slide the new one over the crank and tap it into place
good call on that one!
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#8
Registered User
Yea, exactly what I always do. Put multipurpose grease on the seal lips and on the outside of the seal so it will go in easier.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hey thanks for the responces.
I just looked in the FSM and i found out that all I have to do is cut a slit in the old seal and pry it out with a screwdriver.
I just looked in the FSM and i found out that all I have to do is cut a slit in the old seal and pry it out with a screwdriver.
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