lancelincoln

Swapped my diff with my other yota and now the driveline won't sit flush. The holes line up, but the pinion shaft sticks out of the flange too far and the u joint rocks to one side or the other. Is there a way to put a spacer behind the flange or do I need a different one?

osv

never heard of that, but worst case, driveline spacers are here:

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index...d-spacers.html

MudHippy

They're basically a press-fit. Bang the thing with a dead-blow hammer, and/or use a brass drift pin(and whatever hammmer you've got handy), to seat in flush on the pinion flange. It'll go in, trust me.

lancelincoln

I'll try the driveline spacer. I've smacked it with everything I have. Hit the bolts with my impact wrench, breaker bar. Nothing works. 2 of the driveline bolts will sit flush and the other 2 end up a quarter inch away from the flange. Positioned the driveline in all 4 possible ways. Still 2 bolts suck up all the way and the other 2 won't. I can loosen the 2 and tighten the other 2 for the same results on the opposite side. Frustrating.

aztoyman

Is there a ding on the bore of the flange or on the part of the drive line that seats in the bore?

lancelincoln

I'll have to check after work tomorrow. Never had an issue like this. I feel like the pinion shaft is just too long on this diff. Diff was off an 86, my truck is a 90. Doesn't seem like that should matter though.

lancelincoln

My next question would be are those spacersin the link above suitable for highway use? It's my DD as well.

osv

I just installed the 1" set on my front axle, in a feeble temporary attempt to make up for moving the axle forward... haven't gone fast enough in 4wd to test for vibrations.

if they seat tightly around the raised area of the flange, they'll be centered, so it shouldn't be a problem, but it wouldn't hurt to call 'em and ask.

can you get a picture of the bare flange with the raised pinion shaft? let people look at it before you pull the trigger there.

how did it work on the other truck? you wouldn't have unbolted the pinion, so there must be some differences in the driveshaft.

lancelincoln

I can get some pics tomorrow. I have one on my phone, but not sure how to upload it.

lancelincoln

It definitely has to be a difference in the driveshafts. I didn't unbolt the pinion, just did a complete diff swap. I no longer have the other truck, so no spare parts to work with. Had to get my 5.29s out before I sold the other one.

osv

you could measure the diameter of that raised area on the flange, then ask the vendor what the i.d. is for the driveshaft spacer.

lancelincoln

Trying a photobucket link of what picture I have for tonight. You can see how the driveline won't mate up flush. If I loosen the other side, I can suck this side down and vise versa, as if the driveshaft is rocking back and forth on the end of the pinion. Tomorrow I will post pics without the driveline and call the vendor as well. I appreciate all the help.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

you are also missing the dust shield on the pinion.
You could try to lightly chamfer the inner ring on the driveshaft

lancelincoln

Wondering if just ordering a new flange from TG would solve it. That would include the dust shield right? At $30 for the spacer it's not much more for a flange.

It does come with a shield and is $30 as well. Curious if that would fix it. It's no fun having a badass lawn ornament.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

it would include the dust flange but the problem with removing your pinion flange you would lose your pinion preload unless you can get it dead on.
Counting the turns exactly/marking it with a sharpie might work