RAD4Runner

Hi folks! (I edited title so we can put rear brake system work on first-gen 4runners/2nd-gen trucks on this thread)

THIS FIRST POST IS ON REPLACING REAR BRAKE SHOES on my 1986 MoreFunner...
PARTS:
PROCEDURE AND TOOLS:

keywords: rear brake, brake shoes,

flg8r22

iTrader: (1)

Ray, both are Chinese. Check Lakeland Toyota to see if they've got some. I'm not bashing Orielly but if their Irish heritage saw the Chinese flag flying in front of their stores they would sick the I R A on them. I found Napa to have made and packaged in America shoes and pads but then again it probably varies by location. T

L5wolvesf

I can't comment on the specific parts but . . .
I've really just used basic hand tools plus the 2 pictured here. The one that has the round end (for shoe retaining springs) and the other end is easier to work with because the gouged out part helps hold the pin that the heavy springs go over. A screwdriver is usually a PITA for those. Have fun then have a beer (or that good scotch you've got).

L5wolvesf

I'm guessing the picture I referred to would help huh?

millball

Scotch??......EEEwwwww....... The more expensive it is, the more it tastes like burned plastic steeped in paint thinner.

Bourbon, now that's a real whiskey......

millball

To get back on track.... You might have to look at them side by side.

Seems I remember that the webs in the back of some shoes may be thicker, or thinner to accommodate wheel cylinders, or pistons that have different lengths

The small difference in lining dimensions might not be the most important difference.

RAD4Runner

Thanks, guys!
Will keep all those inputs in mind as I shop. Found out there is an inspection hole in the backing plate so will check first before taking things apart.
Tony, Lakeland Toyota also told me it's been discontinued so now it's down to The house brands and the Wagner. Autozone's Duralast costs same as Oreilly's Duralast so sounds like they are made in same factory.

Yes. Thanks, Tony! OReilly has those loaner tools.

LOL! Yes... tastes like that - J/K...


This is good, too...


or this...

L5wolvesf

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe only drinking can resolve this issue.

millball

I often go into a bar to have just one drink. Sometimes I have to drink a half-dozen or more before I find that one.

L5wolvesf

That sounds like an efficient and effective way of dealing with the situation. I shall have at least one drink to that. I may not be the first drink or the next or the last, but it will be at least one. RAD will hold the cork.

RAD4Runner

I drink to that!
So far...
If I could not get OEM anymore, I'm left with after-market like these below from OReilly and NAPA. I think the "organic" material (Wagner) would mean less wear on the drum compared to Brakebest's (House brand) "Semi-metallic". Your thoughts please?
O'Reilly:

NAPA:



I could not see very well through the inspection hole so I just removed the drum to inspect because (Pretty easy after all!)

This is the thinnest on my driver side (after I cleaned most of the dust off). It is barely above the 1mm minimum limit. I'm still researching/shopping and the soonest I could get shoes with organic, not semi-metallic, material from OReilly woud be 1 week, so I'll leave it alone for now.


Below...
(A) The return spring is most challenging without special service tools, so I'll borrow tools from OReilly.
(B)The Shoe Hold-Down spring-pin-cup assembly is easily removed and re-installed with a good pair of pliers/channel-locks.


Got a question about this cardboard sheet that looks like a shim... There's no mention of this on the FSM.

Could it be just there to prevent the drum and hub from sticking to each other if rusted, or to improve friction between hub and brake drum and prevent them from rotating with respect to each other like those on friend's Mustang's here?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The only way to know what shoes you have is to take one off and match it with the new one.

As of Late all I use is Napa Ultra Premium Brake parts

Spend the money buy the tool to remove the keepers that hold the shoes on trust me unless your frustration quota is very high .

With the adjuster turned all the way in I just use a pair of Dykes or a screw driver to install the return spring .

i found trying to use brake pliers even more difficult .

New Drums and hardware kit you will be good to go.

As to your paper gasket who knows one finds all manor of interesting things on older Toyota`s

RAD4Runner

Cool. Will try NAPA as well.
Yes, turning the adjuster all the way in will reduce tension so I think that will also help wit removal.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

i find using brake spring pliers much easier for removing "A" in your picture. a screwdriver or vise-grips will be difficult. i also use the spring pliers to reinstall.

i'd change those shoes, even though they meet spec. stopping is important.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

your drums are probably in pretty good shape if you could remove them without having to back off the adjusters. no ridge formed at the lip.

L5wolvesf

I always go with Semi-metallic. They are less prone to fade under heavy braking conditions. For instance when going down steep grades and towing - don't ask how I know.

I really don't think the wear factor is significantly different.

RAD4Runner

Thanks a lot for all your input, guys!
Quick question: I only later realized that FSM says not to reuse the clip rings, and I forgot yo buy new ones, so I re-used. They aren't in bad condition and I re-tightened them. Your thoughts?

Understanding that most of the braking is done by fronts, and being on a tight budget, I checked out the less expensive and the only one available yesterday NAPA brake shoes, I stopped by NAPA. They're labeled as "made in the U.S.A., the metal part (core?) is stamped "HOSEI" like the ones on the truck, and another metal part stamped "Canada". Heck, Russian, or Mexico is OK. Just don't want to touch anything made in the communist Bully of Asia. So... NAPA for $15 plus core it is.

These are the only tools I used:

12-mm bolts to help push the drum off the hub.
I could have gone away with just the vise-grips or the long-nose pliers but it's much secure to handle the shoe hold-down spring cups with wider jaws. Worst challenge was to not lose the clip rings. Next, was taking off and re-installing the return spring just with my vise-grips and a skinny screwdriver (Still better that having to add tools that I very seldom use to my kit).

Not bad for 31-year old truck, huh?


NOT MADE IN THE F53*&%G COMMUNIST BULLY OF ASIA!

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

damn, i'm envious of how pristine the entire drum innards are. all of mine have surface corrosion.

RAD4Runner

California truck that's never mudded I guess

SomedayJ

I have to replace my break shoesalso, I don't know what I'm going to find.
I hope they look clean like yours.