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Re intro - New Toy - couple questions
WOW this thing is a truck... just bought a 93 runner. Heavy duty beast.. 5spd V6. I replaced the front shocks.. one was completely worthless. I replaced the steering stablizer and then I took on the power steering pump. All is well to this point. I am going to get tires tomorrow with alignment. There is a little play still in the steering wheel; I will investigate soon. It needs an antenna and tint. I also removed the tube and facing going toward the air filter; will do further mods to it also. The Tbelt and water pump were just done recently along with the spark plugs and cap. I am debating pulling the running boards ( but like someone else - the kids need them ). I will hit you guys up for info when more serious issues arise. God Bless America and our families.
T |
ok here are the questions... lower ball joint on the driver side / how hard are they to replace and how much time does it take? also the alignment guy says my hubs need tightening and repacked.. can I do that my self? should I replace any seals or gaskets? also the shifting takes a second and I have to make sure it is in 2nd gear.. they are kinda stiff and almost have to be forced in. any suggestions?
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i have never done suspension work on my 91 runner but repacking the hubs and wheel bearings is eazy if you can get the right socket it's 54mm or 2 1/8 same size and you should replace the wheel bearing seals wabfab has the socket if you need to order it
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Lower balljoints are a breeze. As long as you have a picklefork and a press. I would always change those in pairs too.
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Repacking the axles is relatively easy but time consuming. Print off the FSM located here: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html
You'll need two grease (they call one of them a "dust" seal) seals, Toyota part Numbers: 90311-66003 ($16.14) 90313-93002 ($25.54) These prices are directly quoted from Champion Toyota online sales, contact Shannon Brookshire, (713) 943-7010. They'll discount up to 45% for yotatech members and ship VERY cheap. I saved a ton over going to my local dealer for parts. Buy a good quality synthetic grease & a 54mm socket ($14.00); it will save you a lot of heartache. Make sure you put everything back in the order the FSM calls for because the first time I took mine apart someone and installed the parts wrong (a supposed Toyot master mechanic). It's 54mm nut, then locking washer, then 54mm nut, then bearing plate, then bearing. Be sure you lube your cv axle bushings, too. You can you a syringe/needle but the best way is with a custom-made lubricator. There's one on here somewhere but I don't have the link right now. Good luck & welcome to the forum! |
You guys are awesome - any word or ideas on the stiff shifting. I am looking for a quicker shift.. its like I almost force it into gear. nothing grinds I just have to take a second and make sure it is in gear. thanks in advance / thanks again
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shifter bushing. www.marlincrawler.com has a GREAT replacement that lasts way longer than the OEM. Shifter is relatively easy to pull. There are several threads on this; some just this week.
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ooo another colorado springs guy huh. welcome what side of town are you on?
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I live on the south side and work on the north side and the dirt under your truck looks real familiar:-)
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withe that play in the steering wheel you might also want to check your tie rod ends. With one bad one it adds a lot to my runners(non- existant steering play)
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while you are at it, you might as well check the idler arm. iirc, mudhippy posted a link for a set of bronze bushings, supposed to be a permanent fix.
lee |
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