Quick oil question
 

What, if any, advantages would there be to running 10w40 in 3VZE? I typically run 10w30, but figured if theres any benefit, I might as well switch.

Why in the world would you want to switch to something that's outside the recommended range.




Fred

I've been using 15w 40 forever in all my vehicles. Rotella T. What the truckers use.

Only exception is my Volvo... I use 5w 40 synthetic Rotella T. Because it has a long pickup line... and most damage occurs in the first 5 minutes.

But everything else... 15w 40. 312K miles on the Merc... and running strong.

Just my experience.

I see no reason to step up to 10-40. I myself run 5-30 mobil 1 synthetic when I get a real Oil pressure gauge installed I may switch to 5-20 wt. When it comes to Oil thicker is not better its usually quiet the opposite.


THIS will probably change the way you think about oil if you take the time to read it.

I use 10W40 in my 3.0 all year round. Do you all think I should use 10W30 in the winter? And, is 10W40 ok to use in a 3.0?

Well, the reason I ask is because my oil pressure drops too low at red lights. If I sit even for a couple seconds at idle, the needle drops down to the L or below. Really, the only time it appears to have pressure is on cold start. I checked my oil sender and its reading normal.

And as far as inquiring about not being within the factory oil rating, I hardly condsider 33" M/T's, lockers, winches, and stinger bumpers to be factory specification either, but they work for us. Since I haven't gotten around to getting my PhD in oil viscosity, I figured I'd ask.

Yeah my oil pressure is usually low besides cold starts and of course when you step on it.
I just figured it was normal???

For engines with higher mileage, this is normal ime. I would stick with the oil you are using but even experts can't agree on what oil to use when so.....:drink:

I run 10w-40 because thats what my haynes manual said to run and the one time i put 10-30 in it leaked like a sive.

Two questions:
- What is the oil pressure at idle ?
- What should the oil pressure be at idle ?

Less flow is not good. :)



:)
Fred

If you look in your owners manual, it shows the expected ranges of oil pressure for both idle and while driving and what it should look like on you oil pressure gauge.


3vze's specs say 10w30. I don't see any reason why you would need or want to deviate away from this rating unless you had specific reasons and knowledge behind them. I would run 5w30 or 0w30 if I was running in very cold climates, but otherwise I run 10w30 year round. Some people might tell you that if you're doing a lot of hard towing/hauling or lots of high RPM highway driving to consider going to a heavier running weight (the second number i.e. w40) as the hotter your oil gets, the thinner it runs. But then some will tell you this is where the thinner/recommended oil (i.e. w30) actually flows well and helps lubricate/cool better.

So, low pressure running 10w30 is better than running 10w40 at higher pressure?

10w30 cuz it's on sale more often. change it and the filter when you're supposed to and you're golden.

I use redline full synthetic 15w-50 API SG, have better result over the 10w-40 and my pressure stay steady unlike running on 10w-40. Thicker oil help the bearing at the bottom end so will not effect changing it to 10w-40. Don't use 5w-30 because when the engine run hot the oil will run like water so the thicker the better. Friction can reduce the engine life so I use 15w-50 to retaliate that since it is at 218,000 miles. I ussually use higher oil weight by the mileage of the vehicle. But stick on what you have, changing to 10-40 will not hurt too, and I am just bieng too crazy using higher rate of oil so go with your heart tell you... :hillbill:

I would run 5-30, just means it will operate better under cold conditions and drasticaly changing temperatures. I dont think id run 15-40 in a 3vz unless i lived on the sun :hillbill:

so 0w-30 is the best i should use or just 10w-30 like ive always have? but i ran straight 40 in my neon but yet again that was a full built race motor ok im confused here

As "GANOID" suggested, read this article http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
its good. Long but good info for anyone who cares about oils.

a racing neon? wow, turd polishing at it's finest.

Well actually... For quiet a while the Neon SRT-4 was the second fastest car Dodge made second only to a Viper. So yeah a racing Neon? I would believe it. Think of it as a really shiny TURD on speed.

Wow, you really have no idea....
You should spend some time and read up.
Almost everything that you posted is flat wrong and/or you're looking for results that you shouldn't be looking for.




Fred

yeah people think way too much into these things....if it aint broke don't fix it

Hmmmm, now I'm thinking about this too much. After getting all my seals and gaskets replaced a couple of years ago and got the 4R to quit puking oil, a good mechanic friend of mine recommended going to a 20w-50. His reasoning was that as an engine ages and develops more leaks as is common, the thicker oil will not leak as much.
He has a 4R and I trust his advise, but now its got me thinking. I started reading that post above and got through 103, but thats too much reading (and thinking) for one sitting. But after what I've read so far, I think I might go back to 10w30 with my next oil change.
BTW thanks for posting that info. Definitely a lot of reading and repetitive as well, but good info.

I might be wrong but when something happen then we will talk.

While Fred did not make his statement in the most eloquent fashion... he is correct.

The problem is... it can take years for the problems to show up. Sort of like drug-use... you don't know the cost until you are well down the road... so-to-speak.

Not being patronizing here. The article referenced a few posts back is worth your consideration.

I've been running 10w-30 all summer, and i've been using 1 qt/1,700 miles on my 3.0 with 200K. My last oil change i switched it up to 10w-40 and now im at 2,000 miles and i've only used 1/2 a qt. But i'll go back to 5 or 10w-30 for the winter here in michigan. So the only difference i saw was oil consumption

Which, obviously to most, doesn't count for the difference that you couldn't see.... :)

Trying to "fix" a problem with higher weight oil is not the way to do things, unless you simple don't care about the engine/vehicle ;)



:)
Fred

I've been using (20w-50 originally) 15w-50 M1 in my 22re for several years. Now, the rings are leaking....blow by. Related to the weight factor...I don't know. I starting running that weight because the tech at the Toy dealer said that was what's was recommended at the time of production for these motors. And now that all my pretty sythentic fluids are contaminated, I'm going to use the genuine article....O'Reilly brand motor oil and change it more often. In THIS case, however, ...and until I can redo the rings, etc....what weight would be recommended. Bear in mind, it is going on winter here. Also, how often would it be recommended to change it? I was thinking 2500 miles.

I've been running 10W-40 castrol synthetic with no trouble in my 88 3VZE for several years know. 218,000 miles and burns exactly a 1/2 quart every 4,000 miles, even with frequent bursts of WOT. I wasn't even aware of what the owners manual recommends, since it wasn't with the vehicle by the time I got it.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...dations001.jpg
Notice that it don't say ANYTHING about what WEIGHT engine oil on the list below. Mentions specific weights for everything else, how odd.<sarcasm>
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...dations002.jpg

im running 10w30 in my 1st gen 4x4 p/u....it leaks like a some beach...always lots of spray when i park it...and it leaks throughout the night...(usually just about 20 or so drops)...i heard of a guy using 20w50 in his 1st gen....and it eliminated the leak.....no more spray or drops...ever...so i was wondering if i should try stepping up to 20w50..

I do believe that was the recommended weight anyway. But, if it's a simple fix, why not just fix the leak?

well its both front and rear mains...not exactly easy...lol...and thanks for the info on the recomended weight...(no manual for the truck)

Ooooo....nope...not an easy one. Good luck. Don't blow a seal. It's a mess. I've done it.

I've been running the same in my Yota. I like it and for the price it kicks ass!

I agree with you. But i wouldn't say i'm fixing a problem by switching from 10-30 to 10-40 for 3,000 miles simply because i got a good deal on a case of 10-40. Now if i ran pure motor honey in my engine, (which i personally saw someone do to an old 4.0 jeep) that would be a different story. He really didn't care about his truck. I love my truck and take very good care of it so it will last me a while yet. I don't consider using 1-2 qts between changes a problem. It's a 13 year old, 200K mile truck that runs over 3,000 rpm on the highway. It doesn't leak/smoke/knock either. I didn't try to "fix" anything. I was simply giving my opinion to Nix4x4 that I didn't notice any benefits by switching from 30-40 weight, besides slightly less oil consumption. If this truck had lower miles on it when i bought it, i would have run Ams Oil.

So I finally got a chance to read the whole post from ferrarichat that Ganoid posted towards the top of this post. Good information there, although very repetitive. Most of that seems like common sense, some of it goes against conventional wisdom. But if that was always correct, we'd all be running 0-20 or 5w-30 for best performance.
I'm not going to attempt to prove it right or wrong on here because I honestly don't know. But, does anyone on here know of other sources to attempt to verify some of that info? Theres good info as well at bobistheoilguy, but their forums are all over the place with different info and thoughts.

Thanks!