Zelephant

So my drums sound like so much silverware banging around back there, time for new brakes. I refuse to throw money at the old drums when disc conversions have become so affordable. So I ponied up and bought the Trail Gear rear disc conversion. Plan is to bolt it up this weekend, but I have some questions. Do I have to drain the diff during the conversion? I wouldn't think so, but I want to be sure. Also, do the axle shafts have to come all the way out of the axle? Where I wrench, space is a concern, and I'd hate to have to do this in a strange parking lot somewhere. Thanks!

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Instructions are on their website.

What are you doing for an e brake?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Yes, drain the diff.

Yes, you have to pull the axle shafts completely out.

Read the directions like DZ suggested.

:wabbit2:

Zelephant

Thanks for the replies; I found the instructions on TG's site. However, they don't say anything about draining the diff being necessary. Now I'm a bit confused.

warpigg

if your taking the axles out then the oil might drain out the axle tubes or you might get rust or whatever in the axle tube from the instalation of the disc brakes

Zelephant

I dunno guys, even the FSM doesn't say anything about draining the oil when pulling the axle shafts. Probably gonna just have the oil pan handy to catch any stray gear oil.

About the e-brake, I'm just gonna forgo it for now. I can't mount a t-case brake on my auto even if I wanted to. It's something I'll keep in mind for the future, though.

BTW warpigg, got any pics or build thread for your Celica? I also own an 84 Celica GTS; hardly any of them left up here in New England.

warpigg

i dont have any pics of it i guess i should take some eventually lol. it has a engine builder reworked head with over size vales bigger valve springs and a 270 cam, has a hogged out intake plenum with a 5mge throttle body on there, to a custom made intake from a nissan 240. i havent done the exhaust yet but its getting a obx header with a full 2.25 exhaust. it has a cusco/240 strut tower bar, looped power steering lines, and no ac. and as of today i welded up some of the holes in the floor.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

I have disassembled my rear axle multiple times...drain the axle fluid, if not it is just gonna dump everywhere and make a mess
completely disconnect the rear brakes
undo the e-brake
undo the 4 14mm nuts on each side.
pull the axles completely out.

you are gonna need them out so you can get the backing plates and assorted junk you won't need any more

don't really understand why you are hesistant to drain the fluid..seems like a no brainer to me...

does connecticut have a safety inspection that you are required to pass? not sure if this is a trail only rig or not..
you could do a line lock..

edit: while you have this all apart it is a good idea to replace your rear axle bearings/ seals...

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

I have removed the axles without draining the oil, it seeped out from the ends when I pulled the axle but I just placed a drain pan under it and it was fine, but I would drain and change it anyway.
If you don't have to have an ebrake to pass some inspection, then why install one? I never use the ebrake in my auto's, a good idea for peace of mind? Sure, but the parking pawl is a mechanical lock in automatic transmissions anyway.

Zelephant

Nice, warpigg. Come to think of it, I have seen you on Celica-GTS.com (same username as here). Mine's still stock and will probably remain so for a while. When and if I do power upgrades, it will be something drastic like a BEAMS 3SGE swap.

We'll see how it goes. If I lose a lot of gear oil I'll drain the rest and refill. If I can get away without it, that's another $50 in my pocket.

I'd love to replace the bearings and seals, but that's just not in the budget right now, unfortunately. That'd drive the cost of this job up almost 50%.

Yeah, no inspection in CT. I'd prefer to have an e-brake, and changes are in the works for my rig that could make a t-case brake possible, but we'll see what happens.

warpigg

i want to do a 4agze swap but cant afford it, i found that a 1jz was cheaper and i may do that later on down the road

drew303

You don't need to drain the fluid to take the axles out. Make sure the axle is level and you'll have very little seep out.

The TG rotors are proprietary. In other words they're not something you can replace at parts store like other disc conversions that use GM fronts with the centers milled out.

(I know because I've compared TG rotors to GM myself, also the caliper brackets are different)

You can cut the backing plates off or have them removed by a shop that knows how to properly remove the bearing and bearing case.

It's important to know after the conversion you will need to properly adjust the braking pressure for the rear with a MANUAL proportioning valve. Mine is installed right off the Master Cylinder.

warpigg

ive seen a disc brake conversion somewhere that used i think cadilac rear calipers but i could be wrong and they had a parking brake and they were around $200-$300.

Zelephant

Got it covered Drew. I know what I'm getting into with the TG kit. Believe me, I really hate to put domestic stuff on my rig, but the TG kit was more complete and cheaper than using the Rockstomper kit with Toyota SFA rotors and calipers. And I know TG customer support is rock solid if I have a problem. BTW, your writeup was a HUGE help. Drum backing plates don't seem nearly as daunting now!

donomite49

been rockin the TG disc kit with aisan 1" mc for over three years now, no problems.

TG service is rock solid.

Zelephant

Discs are in, everything seemed to go smoothly (no gear oil spill!). Not sure how I feel about the pedal, though; it pretty much goes to the floor before the truck stops. If I pump it it firms up quicker. I bled the calipers thoroughly, and I've had a 1" master cylinder for a while. I don't see the point of installing a proportioning valve with the brakes like this, I can't see how limiting fluid flow to the rear will help the situation.

Maybe this is how it's supposed to feel, and I just have to get used to it. My old setup of big MC and standard size brakes meant the pedal hardly moved at all. Still seems weird though. I thought I'd be locking it up driving without the manual prop. valve.

donomite49

[quote=Zelephant; Not sure how I feel about the pedal, though; it pretty much goes to the floor before the truck stops.

there is something wrong if you have to pump the brakes.

i bled mine and never, ever, have to pump the brakes.