Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,

This is a bonehead question but one I need to answer. I've always been crappy at bleeding brakes. I had a hand pump bleeder tool, and it broke years ago. Recently, I borrowed this air pressure powered one from a friend at work:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/tools/specialty+tools/one-person+brake+bleeder.do?search=basic&keyword=bleed er&sortby=newArrivals&page=1

It used the Venturi effect to suck fluid - pretty cool.

So, I hooked it up to my compressor and set it at ~50 PSI and got to work.

1) I started with the LSPV and bled that first.
2) Then worked my way from RR, RL, FR, FL wheels.
3) I added fluid to the reservoir as the level dropped.

Now, I ran out of fluid during the job (did my Datsun first), so I may not have gotten enough new fluid in there, as I was a bit miserly about topping off/bleeding.

I also pumped the brakes in between each wheel's bleeding, hoping to cycle the new fluid into the system and help push the old fluid closer to the bleed valves.

End result: Spongebob brakes. Virtually no stopping power at all. Obviosuly I need to re do this again.

I'm wondering:
1) Am I doing this right as far as which spot to bleed and when?
2) Am I using correct PSI on the device (for those of you who'd used it)?
3) Is there a recommended process for pumping brakes during this? Do I do it at all, using this tool?

I'm asking you guys, since there is the added hurdle of the LSPV, and I hadn't bled that before (last time I did this)....


Thanks!

T_F_E

Your order is a little off I believe the fsm says to do the LSPV last and your wheel order is correct. I have always hated bleeding brakes too

The MAN

I always do it the old fashioned way... I have a pedal pusher sitting inside and tell him to push down on the pedal as I open the bleeder screws... NEVER had problems this way

all of those self bleeder tools, whether pressurized or not, they were always too much trouble to be worth the money

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Guys!

So I broke out my trust search tool and quickly gound this:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...s-lspv-155318/

Appears we're both a little wrong

Rear brakes first, like I said, then LSPV (since it connects front and rear brake systems), then do front wheels.

I'll give this a shot next go round.

Still confused on the pumping the brakes in between each bleed, while using this air assisted tool, but I think it makes sense to do it. Will keep you guys posted.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hmmmm.....but this one says bleed the LSPV *last*:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...leedingbrakes/

The MAN

I don't know how you get confused... it's quite simple... just pump it a couple of times, then hold the pedal as you crack the bleeder screw open... watch the fluid for bubbles in a clear plastic tube... once clean bubble free fluid comes out, you're done... so simple! open the bleeder screw just barely enough for the fluid to come out, or air gets around the threads and you can mistakenly see air bubbles in the plastic tube also

the brake pedal MUST be held to the floor while the bleeder screw is opened, then it can be released once it is closed again, or it will just suck air back into the brake lines through the bleeder screw...

the fluid also comes out faster if the plastic tube is dipped in a jar of brake fluid... old fluid will do

The MAN

yeah, I've been bleeding the LSPV last, never had problems like that

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

This makes sense for regular bleeding - I have done this in the past - but I have this Air Compressor Powered Venturi style bleeder, which conceivably would require the submerged tube in the old fluid. That's part of why I started this thread, since I am not familiar with using this tool.

I also don't want to have to ask my wife to come out and stand on the pedal while I slowly figure this out, n00b that I am

The MAN

I was referring to pedal bleeding, the old fashioned way... I wasn't talking about using the vacuum pump thingy... with that you should be able to just hook it up, crack the bleeder screw open and let it suck

what I said earlier is exactly what you need to do when you do it the old fashioned way, there's nothing to figure out unless you can't follow instructions very well
with any method, you MUST keep the reservoir topped off above half at the very least... if you don't and let it run dry, it will have air in the master cylinder, which will take forever to bleed out!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Got it - will let you guys know how it goes, now that a bought a TON of new fluid

Congrats to the Mavs BTW - really happy the won!

cman1

iTrader: (1)

when i ask my wife "can ya give me a hand for a minute"? she responds with,im not pumping brakes again am i? hehe..shes actually really good about it.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys - just an update:

I re-bled the brakes this weekend, doing RR, LR, RF, LF, THEN the LSPV, and it seems to have done the trick - good, tight brakes.

Thanks everyone!

Phil

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I bleed brakes with something similar I think mine is KD tools

I never had problems I use a offset box wrench on the bleed screw . I keep the tool above the bleed screw.

I put the wrench on first 2 pull the trigger 3 crack the bleeder 4 bleed for a time 5 close bleeder 6 release trigger.

Work from rear to front filling fluid as needed and I then just push on the pedal with my hand if it does not feel good I repeat as above.

Now I have a bunch of Toyota 4X4 vehicles I only tried to bleed one LSPV till that was done The brake job cost more than I paid for the Truck Enough said!!

If you live in a place with no salt and slop in the winter I say go for it My brakes are just fine with out bleeding them.