question about 2nd gen 4runner 4wd system and front suspension
04-01-2010, 11:23 AM
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question about 2nd gen 4runner 4wd system and front suspension
do all 2nd generation 4wd t4r's (1990-1995) have locking hubs? and are they part time 4wd systems?
also could someone explain the front suspension to me? from what i think that i know the front does Not have coils just shocks. is this correct? thanks!
also could someone explain the front suspension to me? from what i think that i know the front does Not have coils just shocks. is this correct? thanks!
04-01-2010, 11:29 AM
#2
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dont think any had locking hubs they had what you call ADD no part time 4wd they do have shift on the fly see link for more info http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/autohub/
and the front end is a torsion bar setup and yes it just has shocks http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...rsion_bars.htm
and the front end is a torsion bar setup and yes it just has shocks http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...rsion_bars.htm
Last edited by Elton; 04-01-2010 at 11:31 AM.
04-01-2010, 03:05 PM
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okay so what i have read is that 90 and up 4runnerws have ADD which allows you to shift on the fly. this will allow me to drive in 4wd on any surface at any speed? is that correct? also how come i see pics of 2nd generation 4runners with locking hubs? why would you want to convert to locking if you have the ADD? what is better about locking then ADD? sorry im a noob. haha
04-01-2010, 03:13 PM
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Kuntry,
In my 94's owner manual, it says within 0-50mph you can shift to 4HI and 0-5mph you can shift to 4LO and drive up to 15mph.
It had ADD but i switched it over to manual hubs.
ADD is decent... you dont get wet or muddy as easily ;-) but with ADD your CV shafts are always spinning as your wheels are locked to them, creates drag and wear/tear on the CV shafts.
By swapping them out, you have the ability of a few things, first off, 2LO, holy balls its fun to use at times, ive gotten unstuck by just using 2Lo a few times. Second, no above mentioned wear/tear on parts! Third, less drag, does it do anything? I notice a difference when i lock mine now as opposed to having them open.
I miss anything guys?
Oh, and i think it looks cooler
Welcome to the forum.
In my 94's owner manual, it says within 0-50mph you can shift to 4HI and 0-5mph you can shift to 4LO and drive up to 15mph.
It had ADD but i switched it over to manual hubs.
ADD is decent... you dont get wet or muddy as easily ;-) but with ADD your CV shafts are always spinning as your wheels are locked to them, creates drag and wear/tear on the CV shafts.
By swapping them out, you have the ability of a few things, first off, 2LO, holy balls its fun to use at times, ive gotten unstuck by just using 2Lo a few times. Second, no above mentioned wear/tear on parts! Third, less drag, does it do anything? I notice a difference when i lock mine now as opposed to having them open.
I miss anything guys?
Oh, and i think it looks cooler
Welcome to the forum.
04-01-2010, 03:20 PM
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okay so the when you have your locking hubs locked you can do the same thing as u stated with the ADD shift into 4hi 0-50 and 4lo 0-5 and go up to 15mph in 4lo. but what happens if hubs are unlocked? also how much doe it cost to switch to locking hubs and is it easy? thanks for all yalls help by the way!!
04-01-2010, 03:26 PM
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No sir... It is not recommended to drive any part time 4WD on hard surfaces...
AWD's have 3 differentials (Center, front and rear), and that's what allows them to do it.... And the centers usually lock. Then and only then, does it become 4WD.
We don't have that... So you'll get bind on a surface that doesnt allow for wheel slip.
And you'll quickly wear parts, if not break them.
Sorry, AWD for streets and hi-trac surfaces only.
04-01-2010, 03:28 PM
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okay thanks tried4x2signN for clearing that part up for me. but back to the locking hubs deal???
Last edited by Kuntryboy; 04-01-2010 at 03:31 PM.
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04-01-2010, 03:31 PM
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You still get the reduction the low range offers, but power can't be transmitted from the front wheels... They're in neutral so to speak...
It's like a -1 banana job... So easy a caveman can do it... And it's cheap. At least depending on how you are at finding parts...
04-01-2010, 03:34 PM
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Best thing to do with an ADD is just put manual hubs on it...
In the Winter you can lock them and all is back to stock. Shift on the fly, 4WD.
For summer and DD leave them unlocked until you need them... It keeps the shafts from rotating and I don't care who you are, a gas engine can tell any amount of drag and quite eagerly address the problem with using more gas...
In the Winter you can lock them and all is back to stock. Shift on the fly, 4WD.
For summer and DD leave them unlocked until you need them... It keeps the shafts from rotating and I don't care who you are, a gas engine can tell any amount of drag and quite eagerly address the problem with using more gas...
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 04-01-2010 at 03:35 PM.
04-01-2010, 03:56 PM
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awesome!!! thanks for the all the help.... i actually understand now haha.... one more thing, im guessing when hubs are locked and in 4wd it is better off road then ADD. why is it so much better off road? or is it the same off road it just allows to have no unecessary wear on the shafts when not in 4wd? sorry after this question im done asking them. haha 
04-01-2010, 06:52 PM
#11
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I put manual locking hubs on my 95. Main reason was to reduce wear of components (cv boots mainly) and reduce driveline drag when in 2wd. Offroad performance will not change. The ADD system uses live hubs, same as manual hub that is locked, always.
Last edited by az4x4runner; 04-01-2010 at 06:55 PM.
04-01-2010, 07:42 PM
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actually about to buy a 2nd gen i like the 3rd gens but i think the 2nds look better lifted with 35's haha by the way im a 4runner owner now. i have a 2wd 03 4th gen. selling it and getting a 2nd gen.... ppl say im crazy but i dont care i think older ones are bad ass. haha
i like the 3rd gens but i think the 2nds look better lifted with 35's haha by the way im a 4runner owner now. i have a 2wd 03 4th gen. selling it and getting a 2nd gen.... ppl say im crazy but i dont care i think older ones are bad ass. haha
04-01-2010, 07:59 PM
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Nice man. I love the looks of the 1st and 2nd gens. I've had mine for almost 8 years now and I love it. 180,000 miles and going strong! It had about 70k when I got it. You'll like the 4wd if you are into wheeling and exploring.
You'll like the 4wd if you are into wheeling and exploring.
04-01-2010, 08:19 PM
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oh god... am i into wheeling? is that a question hahaha im obssesed haha its OCD for me.... if i spent as much time on homework as i do on t4r.org and toyota120 and now yotatech i would make straight a's and be going to harvard hahaha. my friends make fun of me cause they know i blog hahaha. i would love to get a 1st gen eventually for summer cruising with the top off. but i really dig the 2nd gens a lot
04-01-2010, 08:29 PM
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awesome!!! thanks for the all the help.... i actually understand now haha.... one more thing, im guessing when hubs are locked and in 4wd it is better off road then ADD. why is it so much better off road? or is it the same off road it just allows to have no unecessary wear on the shafts when not in 4wd? sorry after this question im done asking them. haha
Now what you do with them and where you use them is up to you. It's a free country...
Locked hubs are just like having the factory ADD.
Manual hubs let you choose to have the shafts spin all the time, or not at all.
An ADD flange is just a hub you can not unlock. Hubs are flanges you can lock and unlock... They are selectable.
Again, a factory ADD flange is not selectable. You get shift on the fly... But you can never unlock them to keep the shafts from turning, or use LOW 2.
With manual hubs you get it all.
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 04-01-2010 at 08:31 PM.
04-01-2010, 08:38 PM
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Get a set off an IFS Toyota and you'll be fine... I wouldn't waste my money on anything else... B/c there is nothing else. The factory hubs are the best thing you'll ever bolt on your truck.
Remove axle flange... Install AISIN hub... It's that easy...
The only exception to running factory AISIN hubs is when you intentionally make a weak link... B/c breaking a aftermarket hub will be far better than breaking an IFS stub shaft... But wait till you're running 38's to do that...
Remove axle flange... Install AISIN hub... It's that easy...
The only exception to running factory AISIN hubs is when you intentionally make a weak link... B/c breaking a aftermarket hub will be far better than breaking an IFS stub shaft... But wait till you're running 38's to do that...
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 04-01-2010 at 08:40 PM.
