Problem with 22re
 

I recently replaced my cylinder head on my 88 truck & my after the install my truck has no power at all. I step on the gas and it just doesnt want to go. Also the studs for the exhaust manifold air injection rail are real short, did different years have different size studs?

any help would be greatly appreciated.

is it misfiring at all?

how is the timing set? check the forums for the best timing because i think it differs from the haynes manual.

hth

correct timing for a 22RE is 5* BTDC with diagnostic terminals TE1 and E1 jumpered (same terminals you jumper to pull ECU codes).

have you done a compression check to make sure you have adequate (and even) compression in all cylinders?

timing is set at 5* while jumped. compression across the cylinders varied from 170-175 psi on the fourth puff & it is not misfiring. it idles fine, it just doesnt want to go, it'll just crawl along.

hmmm...just some more guessing, but maybe i'll give you some idea that will help you stumble on to the right answer...

maybe a vacuum leak or vacuum lines not reconnected correctly?

brakes dragging (maybe you had the e-brake set for a long time while doing the work and it froze)?

TPS malfunctioning or not set properly?

to test TPS: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

AFM? (or air leak allowing unmetered air into intake plenum)

to test AFM: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

EGR system not functioning properly?
distributor worn?

fuel pump problem:

fuel pump info: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

have you tried pulling the ECU codes? (i've hear of 22REs storing codes, but not giving a check engine light, so you might want to try pulling them even though you haven't gotten a check engine light.)

i'm assuming you have brand new plugs in there, but have you pulled them to check their condition to see if that can give you any clues?

does it rev freely while sitting still in neutral? or do you notice problems just revving it also?

i think i figured it out... so i went outside to double check the timing. i tried advancing it to 8* to see if it would run better and it did. so then bumped it 12 and it ran even better. So i double checked to see if i lined up the dist to the crank, and the rotor points to the number one wire at TDC. So could I be off a few teeth on the timing chain?

hmmm...

if you check the timing without the diagnostic terminals jumpered, it should generally be around 12* BTDC (advanced by the ECU).

almost sounds like the jumpering wasn't working, so you were actually setting the timing 7* or so too retarded--which could explain the lack of power.

when you jumpered the terminals, did the engine RPMs drop (it should)?

i didn't notice an rpm drop. i do notice that the check engine light flashes while i jumpered the terminals

Yep, I just ran into a similar problem, and it was the timing chain. You might want to start there first, probably needs moved clockwise, at TDC the dimple on the cam gear should be left of center.

typically, the RPM not dropping when you jumper those terminals indicates that the TPS is out of adjustment. (see link i posted above.) the CEL will still blink.

i'm not saying your timing chain isn't off a tooth, also. it may very well be.

but, if your RPM really isn't dropping at all when jumpering the terminals, i think you should also check your TPS.

you may have just not noticed the drop since you weren't specifically paying attention to it, though. it won't drop a lot, but it will be enough to hear the difference...and, it can take a second or two.

(also, make sure the engine is at normal operating temp and your idle is set correctly--750 RPM when setting the timing.)

i tested the tps and check the cam timing and both are within spec.

If your RPM and timing are not changing when you install the test jumper, then it does sound like the IDL-E2 adjustment on the TPS is off. Make sure it reads under the specified resistance with the throttle closed. Also make sure the dashpot is not holding the throttle slightly open. And also check that the TPS resistance is "seen" at the ECU connector pins. The TPS itself may be fine but there could be an open circuit in the wiring back to the ECU.

And 12 BTDC (unjumpered) = 5 BTDC (jumpered), so that would correspond to a problem at the TPS inputs to the ECU, since you get the CEL flashing with the jumper.