Play in pinion....should I try to fix myself?
05-15-2017, 08:44 AM
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Play in pinion....should I try to fix myself?
We are working on an 89 Toyota 4wd. Was having some vibration issues as I kept climing through the gears and increasing the RPMs. Thought I'd check the u joints and carrier. When I went to check the rears, they were dead tight but the pinion had definite play in it. That can't be good. I have never seen a pinion move like that. It's on a very limited use hunting vehicle but I want the vibration to go away. I don't want to rebuild the complete rear if I don't have to due to it's limited use. It looks like this rear end is a shim style and not a crush sleeve. How hard is it to do a front and or rear bearing swap on these. I am very mechanically inclined. I've put posi units in 12 bolts and messed with some ford 9" diffs. Seems like just a smaller version. Thanks for any input.
Dub
Dub
05-15-2017, 09:04 AM
#2
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If you've worked on differentials before, all you need is the factory service manual.
Before I took it apart, I'd try torquing the pinion nut up to about 130fp and seeing how it feels. Might well tighten up and run a long time.
If not, you'd have to take it apart for overhaul anyway.
Before I took it apart, I'd try torquing the pinion nut up to about 130fp and seeing how it feels. Might well tighten up and run a long time.
If not, you'd have to take it apart for overhaul anyway.
05-15-2017, 09:08 AM
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If you've worked on differentials before, all you need is the factory service manual.
Before I took it apart, I'd try torquing the pinion nut up to about 130fp and seeing how it feels. Might well tighten up and run a long time.
If not, you'd have to take it apart for overhaul anyway.
Before I took it apart, I'd try torquing the pinion nut up to about 130fp and seeing how it feels. Might well tighten up and run a long time.
If not, you'd have to take it apart for overhaul anyway.
This advice makes sense and will be the first approach!
05-15-2017, 09:13 AM
#5
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Differential carrier or pinion???
Neither should have any play at all. Both should have some pre-load.
You can really tighten the crud out of the carrier rings, as long as the proper backlash is observed.
Neither should have any play at all. Both should have some pre-load.
You can really tighten the crud out of the carrier rings, as long as the proper backlash is observed.
Last edited by millball; 05-15-2017 at 09:52 AM.
05-15-2017, 10:05 AM
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2ND question was about what I call the carrier bearing which is the rubber part half way between the drive line that attaches to the bottom of the frame/bed.
Last edited by dubs89truck; 05-15-2017 at 10:08 AM.
05-15-2017, 10:13 AM
#7
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Well the less play, the better. My experience with these is that the aftermarket ones don't last very long at all.
As long as its bearing is good and the rubber is not broken out, it's probably OK.
As long as its bearing is good and the rubber is not broken out, it's probably OK.
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05-15-2017, 12:55 PM
#8
wouldn't hurt for you to take a look at http://www.gearinstalls.com/
Zuk has been doing stuff for years and does great write ups
Zuk has been doing stuff for years and does great write ups
05-15-2017, 03:55 PM
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Well my first post since joining today and you guys freaking rock! Went down and spent $6 on a 30mm socket. Got about 1/4 turn on the pinion nut. Took ALL the play out and a decent preload. ZERO play......ZERO noise and ZERO vibration!! I am a happy camper. Thanks a TON guys!!!
Dub
Dub
05-15-2017, 05:49 PM
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I just measured feel/drag before I tightened it and feel/drag after to make sure it didn't feel like it was binding up or anything. I realize this is certainly not how you correctly measure preload but it is on this thing. Given where I was before this, it can't hurt it any more. I will keep an eye on it and periodically check to make sure it's not getting worse again which would be a sign the bearings are going away.
