boriswebs

I just wanted to share about my how I spent about $900 to get my truck to pass emissions test in CA. This might help anyone with a similar problem passing it.
Well it started with a fail of visual inspection due to the custom air intake. I didn?t keep all of the stock tubing so a trip to dealership and $300+ later got that back to normal. I learned a big lesson DONT THROW AWAY STOCK PARTS THAT YOU MIGHT NEED TO GET IT TO PASS SMOG! Then onto the 1st test. Failed CO levels (Gross Polluter 2.08 @15MPH mine tested 2.86, @ 25MPH Max 2.29 mine 3.87) and the timing was 28 BTDC. I later found out (Due to the nice people on yotatech) that if the TPS is bad, jumping the OBD will not bypass the computer to show correct timing. So I tested the TPS and found that it was indeed bad. And when looking at the main pulley the mark was messed up and the true timing mark was off (Previous owner did something) because the TPS can be a PITA to install without problems I took it to a dealership to install and set timing correctly. So they replaced the TPS and marked the correct place to adjust timing. Toyota part# for TPS 89452-12040 about 95$

Do to the high CO levels I replaced the O2 sensor and the VAFM. Got the AFM from Napa for $186. (Toyota Part #22250-65010, Napa Part # NEC XTP420030) the O2 Sensor from AutoZone. I also learned never to make changed to the VAFM, that?s why I had to change it.

After this my truck passed with flying colors. I mean way way below the max.

But now I have a problem. If you hold the throttle down somewhere in-between 1800 and 2200 in the right spot engine will rev to 2500 then drop to 500 and do it again just doing it over and over again until you let off the gas. It does it while driving, or parked or while moving the throttle cables at the TB. Also I can?t get the throttle to sit anywhere in between 2500 and around 4000. If I try to get the RPM's to sit anywhere in-between the RPM's slowly rise until 4800 then drop to 500 and start slowly climbing back up.

What coult cause this? I just cant think after the past few days spending so much and worrying about it passing.

InternetRoadkill

Sounds like the AFM might be sticky. Does the vane move freely with no binding?

stock87

Sounds like they didn't adjust the TPS when they installed it. Head over to 4crawler.com and search for TPS.

From the sound of it, I bet it's still getting an idle signal and cutting the fuel.

boriswebs

Ya it moves without a problem. It was having the problem before I put the new one in.

Stock87
Thats what I was thinking. Ive read about how to agust them, thats how I found out my old one was bad. I just didnt want to mes with it just yet. Ive got a 800 mile drive home in 2 days and it runs fine as it is for now. I just wanted to see if anyone has had the same problem.

MMA_Alex

just testing the tps, and seeing it its up to specs you dont have to actually make any changes to the adjustment. I would just test it now, and if its bad you can adjust it later on, otherwise continue to brainstorm, and check other parts.

BearsRunner

boriswebs, you bought the whole AFM from napa for 186$, the dealer wants like 650$ for it. How is it working for you? I need to replace mine because my Air Temp sensor went bad, and I've been told you cannot just replace it, you need the whole AFM.

drkblu4runner

you need to readjust your tps. i had same problem. and adjusted the tps and its fine now

myyota

Go to the local pic n pull and find a used AFM, or find the correct AFM and remove the plastic cover over the electronics and pull the air temp sensor out of it, its held in place with two small screws.