slimsilver

Hey folks, this is my first post on here though I have gotten good info from this forum in the past. I am looking for advice/opinions on my situation. I have a 1994 2wd 22re 5-speed pickup with 120k on it. It recently began running warm and drinking water. I figured it to be head or head gasket. I have never been into a 22re other than a timing gear/chain job a while back.

I tore this one down and sure enough the number four cylinder was clean as a whistle. The other three looked as expected for 120k. I was not able to see any indication of water travel on gasket or block/head surface. I think there may be crack elsewhere in the head for it was using quite a bit of water daily over a 4 to 5 day period but only through #4 cylinder. The truck was running fine when I pulled it in the garage except for a rough idle but when I tore it down I noticed that I could just barely rotate the cam in its journals. It seemed very tight. Here is what I am thinking...feel free to share your thoughts...

I plan to order a new head (RV/street) from enginblder also head bolts, gasket set, water pump, oil pump, timing gear and chain set w/steel guides, injector o-rings. If i can manage to get all this back where they belong with all the "gozentas" in the right places I hope this will have me running for a long time. Question is, how does the rv cam impact gas mileage. Is this cam suitable for just every day driving to and from work. Is it worth the price difference over the $367 replacement head. I also plan to replace the fuel filter while I'm at it.

Any thoughts or advice appreciated.

91Toyota

Why not just re-ring the engine? Did you check compression? If you have bad compression in that last cylinder (I had it in #3) it will cause worse damage. I had cracked rings in my #3 cylinder caused by antifreeze coming into the engine....something like that. lol

scuba

Check to make sure your timing cover isnt worn, its common the plastic guides ware and let the chain "slap" the cover opening up a coolant passage

slimsilver

I didn't check compression before I tore it open. Will do so when head goes back on though. It was running great...until it wasn't The chain guides look to be in very good shape, chain too for that matter. It may well have been changed at some point for it is well within spec as far as slack. I just figured to do it while I'm there.

scuba

Did you look to see if the timing cover was worn or not though...?

P/o could have done a HG cause it was sucking water...and completely over looked that cover...

slimsilver

Cover doesn't show wear from what I can tell. I have yet to take it off and look close though. I will be able to tell more when off. I appreciate the input folks. I've read good things on here about enginbuilder parts, I also saw an ad on here for something like "Japan motors" or something. Any suggestions on parts suppliers? Thanks

abecedarian

welcome to the fray!
There is a water passage between the #3 and #4 intake ports on the head so it is conceivable that the intake manifold gasket failed, allowing coolant into the #4 cylinder. What does the runner into the head look like?So, what's the price difference between the rv cam and without? Presumably, you'll be re-using your cam if you don't get the rv cam right?
If your tires and gearing are correct for the vehicle, the rv cam should not affect your gas mileage much if at all. It moves the power band around a bit and should actually help you keep a lighter foot on the highway.

slimsilver

Thanks for the reply. Sounds as though I may not have needed to pull the head. The two intake ports (3&4) are wet where as the others are not. I was wondering about that when I saw it. Your reply would answer it. After I pulled the head according to proper loosening sequence .25 turns and all, I tried to turn the cam by hand. It was very very tight. Is this common on these?

slimsilver

Oh yeah, my truck is bone stock original. Factory tires etc.

slimsilver

Well, it's been a while and with the Holidays and all I had several delays. This past weekend I was finally able to get serious about putting everything back together. Last night I installed new valve adjust screws and adjusted the valves and buttoned everything up.

I tried to start it and it sounded really weak. I thought for a minute and remembered that one of my kids had a crisis about the time I was sticking the distributor and felt like I should check that for I was dealing with a divided attention thing. (I'm kind of a one track mind guy) Sure enough, I was one tooth off on the set, re-stuck and she fired right up.

After the test drive she was warming up a little much and idle was surging. Pulled back in the garage and burped the cooling system and added water.

Another test run and she was running like a top. Set the time, adjusted the idle, and checked for leaks. No leaks.

Unless something comes up it looks like this one is good to go. Now I get to attempt to tackle the idle issues on my other one.

With all the great info from the folks on this site I should be able to resolve that at well.

thook

Congratulations are in order.