Oh my god I used UV die and the thing leaks from EVERYWHERE
11-15-2011, 11:24 AM
#41
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I just removed the pickup tube and it came out fine. Is there a chemical that eats FIPG easily? And also when I put it back on what's the easiest way to reapply the FIPG?
11-15-2011, 11:47 AM
#44
The bolts could have washers behind them because that is where the a/c used to be hooked up. If it is the lower left on the timing chain cover. My 86 was the same way. came stock with a/c, by the time I got hold of it the a/c was long gone.
11-15-2011, 12:52 PM
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I bought the dealer stuff to the tune of 16 dollars. Won't be doing that again. And it was an upper left bolt. It has AC and still has it on it.
11-15-2011, 02:46 PM
#47
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You might be able to get away with not pulling the head for a little while, but in my experience, it'll just come back to bite you in the butt.
I did my tchain and guides, then 7 months later i was back, pulling the head off because i was losing almost a quart every 1,000 miles out of the front of the engine..
Haven't leaked yet, and have the peace of mind of a fresh HG.
Not only that, but it allowed me to scope out my pistons, and cylinder walls.
Also, i found a copper spacer where my head had been milled, or my block had been decked. Pretty neat discovery.
I did my tchain and guides, then 7 months later i was back, pulling the head off because i was losing almost a quart every 1,000 miles out of the front of the engine..
Haven't leaked yet, and have the peace of mind of a fresh HG.
Not only that, but it allowed me to scope out my pistons, and cylinder walls.
Also, i found a copper spacer where my head had been milled, or my block had been decked. Pretty neat discovery.
11-15-2011, 03:10 PM
#48
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Why the hell would someone design an engine like this... For being reliable it seems incredibly stupid. What sort of order of operations should one do to put the block back together after a rebuild? Cant do the timing chain/timing without the cover off, cant do that without the head on, can't put the head on without the timing cover on... the circle continues...
11-15-2011, 03:22 PM
#49
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No, you put the cover on, then you put the head on. Just get the bottom chain lined correctly and if the oil pump is on the cover before you out the cover on, the chain will stay in the right place if you don't mess with it. Check the link in my signature, it has some tips and tricks from many people. Everything I needed to know to do it is posted there.
11-15-2011, 03:26 PM
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Your signature appears to be blank. Hopefully doing it this way will last until winter... I'd rather just find another block to be building and drop it in come summer. Besides the head what's the difference on the 22re and 22rte again? Are the pistons a different height? I know the oil pumps are a bit different but the proper 22rte is hard to find...
11-15-2011, 06:58 PM
#53
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I just liked the 22RTE due to its rarity in a 4Runner. It has the turbo digital dash with the boost gauge and all. I might look to a 3.4l though, but turbo it 
What is the engine code for the 3.4? Weight? Isn't the ECM a pain in the butt?
What is the engine code for the 3.4? Weight? Isn't the ECM a pain in the butt?
11-16-2011, 04:41 AM
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x2 on Permatex Grey. It is working perfectly for my pan. Why pay $16+ for a Toyota logo? No, I do not want to spark up a battle on Dealer vs Permatex. Just my opinion.
12-09-2011, 11:18 AM
#57
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So I reassembled everything. Got the turbo back from the rebuilder. Turns out the back stud for the manifold his helicoiled in and the helicoil is broken. Instead of dealing with undoing all the crap I just did I'm going to pull the motor. What motors are easy swaps? I'll be rebuilding the turbo motor with a ct 26 but more as a long time garage project. This blows. Anyone need a rebuild ct20 with a crappy manifold?
What's the transmission code for what's behind my turbo? It's an auto...
What's the transmission code for what's behind my turbo? It's an auto...
Last edited by MrArmyAnt; 12-09-2011 at 11:58 AM.
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