newbie question about clutches
11-21-2008, 08:39 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
newbie question about clutches
i know, i have a newbie question about clutches. i KNOW not to get a racing clutch. but my question is, for my application, what is the BEST clutch to get?
its mostly used for daily driving, and its my weekend warrior. once i get my own place and better income i plan on changing that, i just need something that will work perfectly with what i do. i mostly do trails and stuff while offroad, though i have been known to try to show up jeeps out in the rocks (and have made it more than a few times, jeep guys were VERY impressed.. a few of em bought toyotas LOL). here are my thoughts on the different clutches
the clutch from marlin crawler (not that they make, what they offer)
the clutch that wabfab offers (maybe the same thing, i dont know)
OEM clutch from toyota stealership
the MC heavy duty clutch
parts plus clutch (OEM QUALITY, according to them)
i need help!
its mostly used for daily driving, and its my weekend warrior. once i get my own place and better income i plan on changing that, i just need something that will work perfectly with what i do. i mostly do trails and stuff while offroad, though i have been known to try to show up jeeps out in the rocks (and have made it more than a few times, jeep guys were VERY impressed.. a few of em bought toyotas LOL). here are my thoughts on the different clutches
the clutch from marlin crawler (not that they make, what they offer)
the clutch that wabfab offers (maybe the same thing, i dont know)
OEM clutch from toyota stealership
the MC heavy duty clutch
parts plus clutch (OEM QUALITY, according to them)
i need help!
11-21-2008, 09:21 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
If most of your driving is on road/highway, the OEM clutch is prolly the best.
If yer going on the trails more than half-the-time, MC or Wabfab are the next logical choice.
If yer going on the trails more than half-the-time, MC or Wabfab are the next logical choice.
11-21-2008, 09:21 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: colorado
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
11-21-2008, 09:26 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
im just wonderin cuz the original clutch lasted 300,000 miles. thats also 20 years. i guess i can drive clutch okay. will the marlin HD clutch hold up as well, or will it give out sooner, if i keep my driving style the SAME?
11-21-2008, 11:58 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Mesa AZ -> Federal Way, Wa
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Shouldn't need anything more than a factory replacement.
As far as I know the clutch in my rig is still the factory clutch, when time comes to replace it, I'll just throw another stocker in it.
As far as I know the clutch in my rig is still the factory clutch, when time comes to replace it, I'll just throw another stocker in it.
11-22-2008, 05:03 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
11-22-2008, 09:08 AM
#8
Registered User
well if s stock one lasted 300k miles replace it with another stock one and you might get up to 600,000 by the time it needs to be replaced, and aftermarket clutch may last long or may wear earlier, id just go oem.
11-22-2008, 03:01 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
GAH... first people tell me stock, and now marlin... AARRRGH! LOL i should buy both of them and install them together... talk about double clutching...
01-10-2009, 06:25 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
well got the OEM clutch. it runs great. also had to replace the tranny, 4th gear was shot and the gears were all screwed up. (yes had our mechanic do it, i have no time). runs great. now im noticing how noisy the timing chain is.. LOL... maybe valves, maybe time for a TC. dunno. tho the tranny makes an odd whirring noise while accelerating.. im assuming its the clutch assembly seating or breaking in or something... doesnt sound bad, im just not used to it.
now the bad things:
my stereo faceplate got jacked. im going to go back up there on my day off and see if my mechanic took it out and put it in his shop so it wouldnt get jacked, but if he didnt, then im out 80 bucks. i was wanting another one anyway.
my hood has problems closing, im going to have a mechanic at work check it out tomorrow, i know what it is, but not how to fix it. (dontcha hate that?) the hood latch is stuck, meaning he pulled the hood release cable too hard. grr. well enuff of the rant, hopefully soon see u guys on the trails!
now the bad things:
my stereo faceplate got jacked. im going to go back up there on my day off and see if my mechanic took it out and put it in his shop so it wouldnt get jacked, but if he didnt, then im out 80 bucks. i was wanting another one anyway.
my hood has problems closing, im going to have a mechanic at work check it out tomorrow, i know what it is, but not how to fix it. (dontcha hate that?) the hood latch is stuck, meaning he pulled the hood release cable too hard. grr. well enuff of the rant, hopefully soon see u guys on the trails!
01-10-2009, 07:34 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: PEI, CANADA
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4300 posts and a newb question?? Dude how is that?
That whirring noise,, did they use the same pilot bearing or use the new one in the kit and/or did you opt for a new output shaft bearing? The shaft bearing in mine was the problem,, and oddly enough 4th was going in mine too. I had the time and did it myself but didn't save a cent in the long run,, just gained experience
That whirring noise,, did they use the same pilot bearing or use the new one in the kit and/or did you opt for a new output shaft bearing? The shaft bearing in mine was the problem,, and oddly enough 4th was going in mine too. I had the time and did it myself but didn't save a cent in the long run,, just gained experience
Last edited by '88 4-RUNNER; 01-10-2009 at 07:40 PM.
01-10-2009, 07:48 PM
#16
I second what Jay said. Supposedly it clamps harder than the OEM clutch, and is rumoured to be kind of "grabby" but I found a smooth start to be no more challenging than the OEM clutch and I was wearing steal toe boots (can't feel the clutch with through your boot sole well).
There have been several times when the OEM-quality clutch on my truck really hasn't clamped up well enough for me on road when hauling construction supplies in the back. Offroad, its more of an issue. Go MC HD.
There have been several times when the OEM-quality clutch on my truck really hasn't clamped up well enough for me on road when hauling construction supplies in the back. Offroad, its more of an issue. Go MC HD.
01-11-2009, 05:42 AM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
again, got the OEM, and couldnt be happier. plus im back in my yota, no more 2001 Ford Titanic 
. (expedition). i just gotta use my computer speakers until i either locate my stereo's faceplate, or get a new stereo. OH, get this. i go up there last tuesday (to my mechanics shop) and ask him if he can just do the clutch and look at the tranny, so he drove it, called me back and said transmission is damaged (as i suspected) and would have to be replaced. so he told me he was going to get a new clutch assembly from the dealer, get a used tranny from a place in LA, and it was going to be around 1200. so i asked him if i could make payments on that, since i dont have that much. he looked at me and said 'sure, u and ur dad are my main customers, i dont want to lose you guys, give me 400 now and the rest you can make up later.' has ANYONE ever even HEARD of a mechanic doing that??? did i get LUCKY or what??? lol
. (expedition). i just gotta use my computer speakers until i either locate my stereo's faceplate, or get a new stereo. OH, get this. i go up there last tuesday (to my mechanics shop) and ask him if he can just do the clutch and look at the tranny, so he drove it, called me back and said transmission is damaged (as i suspected) and would have to be replaced. so he told me he was going to get a new clutch assembly from the dealer, get a used tranny from a place in LA, and it was going to be around 1200. so i asked him if i could make payments on that, since i dont have that much. he looked at me and said 'sure, u and ur dad are my main customers, i dont want to lose you guys, give me 400 now and the rest you can make up later.' has ANYONE ever even HEARD of a mechanic doing that??? did i get LUCKY or what??? lol
01-11-2009, 07:34 AM
#18
Registered User
Just an FYI.... I'm pretty sure the only difference between Marlin's HD and the OEM clutch you got is the that there are more diaphragm springs on the Marlin giving more clamp force. Basically, a modified OEM. Quality and durability is the same. Both are Aisin/Seco.
01-11-2009, 01:11 PM
#19
Contributing Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
5 Posts
my hood has problems closing, im going to have a mechanic at work check it out tomorrow, i know what it is, but not how to fix it. (dontcha hate that?) the hood latch is stuck, meaning he pulled the hood release cable too hard. grr. well enuff of the rant, hopefully soon see u guys on the trails!
My hood release cable was frayed and was NOT working correctly. The same thing happend to me. If I pulled the handle too hard, it would pop open but it would almost seem like the latch would sieze open. I slamed the hood down HARD. Hard enough to put a slight bend in the hood...
I replaced the cable with a good used unit and it has been working flawlessly.
And yea, the marlin HD clutch is no different then the OEM aisin unit, except it has a higher spring rate. Marlin gets these tweaked at the factory in japan.
My clutch still feels softer then any other manual vehicle I have driven
Last edited by Jay351; 01-11-2009 at 01:13 PM.
