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New to Yotatech, new truck, couple questions

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Old 05-10-2008, 07:31 PM
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New to Yotatech, new truck, couple questions

Whats up yotatech, I just recently got a 95 single cab 4x4 pickup w/ a 22re. I found the truck with a blown rod for 900$ and its in decent shape. No rust whatsoever, fading paint, "custom" welded on front bumper. The first order of buisness was to swap the longblock. I went to a local machine shop who had one in stock w/ a "rv" cam, and after a long weekend i got it in with no other assistance. Now here are a few questions i have:

First power, I have the tps adjusted and it timed to 8deg btdc. but im currious if maby the maf needs to be adjusted/replace. The problem is i live in norcal and we have alot of steep long hills. and i cant seem to keep up on the larger ones, in 4th at wot i will hover at 55. Is this all the power these little 4cylinders put out, or do you think i need to do some more adjusting? I do have 31" tires with afaik stock gears.

Second is ride. I have done some searching but i have found nothing too specific. I travel 50% on gravel logging roads and i am looking to maby make a smother ride. I have seen the total chaos long travel kit, but im not at the stage in this truck where im going to start dropping $ on something that may not be 100% nessesary. I was looking at the ome kit because its small lift, and supposed good driveablity.

Thanks in advance
Old 05-10-2008, 07:48 PM
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As far as your engine problem goes, I don't really have any usefull answers. I have a 22re in my 4runner with 31" tires and its also gutless, of course mine has 250,000 miles on it. I've wondered if I put a new engine in how much power I would actually get back. As far as the suspension I would definately recommend the OME, i've never owned any of there suspension products myself but i've ridden in a couple rigs with OME and they rode very good. I plan on doing OME rear springs and shocks in the near future. Good luck
Old 05-10-2008, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by killer305
Second is ride. I have done some searching but i have found nothing too specific. I travel 50% on gravel logging roads and i am looking to maby make a smother ride. I have seen the total chaos long travel kit, but im not at the stage in this truck where im going to start dropping $ on something that may not be 100% nessesary. I was looking at the ome kit because its small lift, and supposed good driveablity.

Thanks in advance
Do Old Man Emu. Its expensive, but its worth it. Do the rear springs, and all four shocks. Leave the front suspension stock height as you can expose yourself the ball joint, idler arm problems. One possibility for improving the front is to add BJ spacers and then lower the ride down to stock height, or maybe an inch lift.
Old 05-10-2008, 08:11 PM
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After allittle more investigating im not going to get the OME at this point. The main reason is the cost, its not that i cant afford it, its more im a cheap bastard. What would you guys recomend for just stock replacement, rear leafs and shocks all around?
Old 05-10-2008, 08:22 PM
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Advance the timing slightly, it truly helps. I had an 87 4runner with a 22re and had no issues at all.
Old 05-11-2008, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by CJM
Advance the timing slightly, it truly helps. I had an 87 4runner with a 22re and had no issues at all.
I will advance it allitle more but im curious if this is the max power it will put out. The hills around here are nothing compaired to the east cost. IM talking 7% grade for 2-3 miles. I am considering lower gear ratio to help offset the 31's.
Old 05-11-2008, 05:18 PM
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I took a long drive to Penn. in my 22RE equipped pickup with 31X10.50 and stock 4:10 gears. It was brutal, I was getting passed by dump trucks! 4:56's seem like a good choice, but it depends on what you use the truck for.

Last edited by HAVOC; 05-11-2008 at 05:21 PM.
Old 05-11-2008, 06:23 PM
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22re's are gutless
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f130...ce-mods-75172/
Old 05-11-2008, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Banger
makes sense, one thing i did notice today though is a sound i would describe as a bogging sound that occurs when im at a rolling idle, it sounds intermitent like something is turning on and off.

also does anyone sell drop-in thirdmembers on like a core charge basis? im assuming a toyta diff is the same design as a ford 9" right? unbolt axles and slide them out then pull out the pumpkin?
Old 05-11-2008, 06:48 PM
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yes it is i just took ine out today to swap in a welded rear... marlin crawler sells swap out units with core and lockers
Old 05-12-2008, 11:58 AM
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i would have to say if she wasnt born with 31's, you would probably benefit from a gear install. it seems to me the 22re is very specific where it makes power. my journey to the mountains almost every weekend has me towing and hauling occasionally. i can go up hills at 70mph towing my golf cart, as long as i hit the hill at 70. if i start up the hill at 55 or 60, i end up almost in 4th gear doing 45. i too have always questioned what kind of horse power my old 22re is actually putting out, but it never had tons to start with.
Old 05-12-2008, 12:15 PM
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My 22RE likes just above the speed limit. This is a problem for me when someone is driving the speed limit in front of me. I end up flying up behind them and then slowing way down and lagging way behind. How I long for gears.
Old 05-12-2008, 01:45 PM
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anyone have an idea as to the boggin sound im hearing?
Old 05-12-2008, 06:06 PM
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your truck have a/c? if so unplug the a/c compresor its located at the botom pass side of the engine opsite of the alternator then see if the boging sound/on off sound still is hapening
Old 05-12-2008, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mudtoy1986
your truck have a/c? if so unplug the a/c compresor its located at the botom pass side of the engine opsite of the alternator then see if the boging sound/on off sound still is hapening
the truck does have ac, but no belt on the compressor.
Old 05-12-2008, 07:38 PM
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I'm not too sure about the power of the 22re myself, but I find that the air springs I threw in recently were a really nice addition. Still feel the big bumps, but washboards and major paved intersections with tire ruts (I'm in winnipeg, gravel roads are actually smoother than most of our paved streets) are nice and smooth. The big bonus with mine is I actually used "air isolators" so if you do your engineering homework, you can find something that will isolate just about 90% of the frequency of the vibrations you encounter, and you can adjust the "sweet spot by raising and lowering the pressure.
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