1986 4Runner 22re W56 New rebuild no start throwing codes 7 and 11
 

Regarding cam to crank timing. This doesn't look right to me but it maybe the way the camera is positioned. If you place a small square across the flat at the top front of the head, you should be able to line up the centerline of the bolt and dowel of the distributor drive gear.

You mentioned the crank is at 5 btdc, it should be dead on zero (tdc), crank key way straight up at twelve this corresponds with the cam dowel at twelve also.

What I read and see is "crank at 5° btdc" and cam dowel advanced beyond zero (atdc), both should be at zero.

Worth your time to double check these.

Regarding ignition timing.

You did not provide a wide enough image to comment on the distributor placement.

Regarding codes.

It sets this code when the throttle sensor is out of the idle position, or the AC switch is on, AND the diagnostics jumper is in place.

It doesn't prevent the engine from firing, they will start, run and drive with the tps completely disconnected.

It does however prevent setting base idle to spec, so needs addressed eventually.

Since the tps is already loose, take it all the way off and ensure the spring isn't binding and it returns all the way to the stops. Depending how loose and your climate it's full of gunk.

Now is also the time to swap the Philips heads for Allen head bolts. Otherwise they are a pita to tighten on the vehicle, can be done with a driver intended for door knob hardware but not fun..

Regarding tps adjustments.

Ple

Haha, " About more on his in a second ", surely I proof read that before posting, quote it often and first time I've noticed that typo.

If anything but that doesn't make sense ask for clarification, it's not as hard as it sound.

Top dead center refers to the crank position, pistons at top of stroke and connecting rod centered to crankshaft bearing clearances. (We typically ignore that last bit about centered, but I digress)
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If the crank indicates 5° btdc you are not at TDC (unless the pulley spun on the center shaft, yes they do that)

Keep in mind the chain tensioner. You can not rotate the crankshaft backward if you over shoot zero. If you rotate backwards the slack side of the chain prevents the camshaft from rolling backward. There was/is video that demonstrates this.

Okay, slow down. In the end, it doesn't really matter where the dark link is (that's there as a convenience for lining up the sprocket with a slack chain.) The important part is to set the crank to TDC, and confirm that the timing mark on the sprocket (not the distributor drive, but I think the marks on each are in the same place) is pointing up. http://web.archive.org/web/201210231.../8timingch.pdf I don't know a lot about the 22re, and I can't see the timing mark in your latest picture (lighting), but the manual seems clear enough.

Your engine is acting like it isn't getting spark. That's so easy to check there's no reason to not do it several times. Put the inductive pickup of your timing light on each plug wire and crank. If the light flashes, the plug is firing (it doesn't mean it's firing at the right time, but first things first).

Next, you're getting a code for the TPS. So fix it. People have a lot of trouble setting the IDL switch, but there really isn't that much to it. You need to rotate the TPS so the IDL switch is closed with the throttle closed, and open with the throttle open. A "perfect" switch has 0.000 ohms when closed, but Toyota recognizes that these are automotive parts, so anything under 2.3k ohms is close enough. A perfect switch is closed when closed, and open when moved 0.00001 mm. Again, not perfect, so if it's closed at .57mm and open at .85, that's set correctly. http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...34throttle.pdf

But for you, you need to worry more about VTA-E2. The manual gives the correct "range" of resistance at open and closed, but more important than that is whether the resistance changes smoothly from one end to the other. (move the throttle slowly). If the resistance bangs back and forth from zero to infinity as you move the throttle plate, the TPS is bad and will throw a code.

I just confirmed spark on cylinders 1 and 2 before the battery died so at least we know it's getting dished out. I'll have to confirm fuel next once the battery is charged again and for the hell of it I'll test compression after that... that would also let me know if there is a timing problem right? example; the valves aren't all the way closed when they should be at TDC causing loss of compression.

About the TPS I think it's suspect because I committed the cardinal sin of cleaning the throttle bod with the sensor attached out of fear of having to set it up again. I was careful but maybe not careful enough. I was in panic mode and tried the test before I really wrapped my head around it. I tested the VTA-E2 pins and I swear I got something around 800 ohm but then I removed the thing for some dumb reason thinking the clearances that needed measurement were inside it's mechanism not the between the throttle stop screw. Coincidentally the screws on the TPS weren't very tight at all probably from the previous owner messing with it. Now since installing it again I can't get a reading above 80 ohm regardless of where I turn the throttle it's somewhere between 46 and 80 ohm. According to the FSM that means bad. Pretty sure I took the base of the test and threw it out the window. So now I'll have to set it back up correctly so I can test it properly.

As far as my timing set is concerned the chain has two dark links that are meant to line up at each end one centered on the notched cam gear and the other centered on the notched crank sprocket. Unfortunately the notch is on the tooth and gets hidden once you get the chain on. In retrospect it would have been wise of me to make a notch with a punch or something for future reference.

Thanks for the tip on using the timing light that made it stupid simple.

Better pictures, looks fine from here.
Cam dowel​​​​​​ at twelve, rotor pointed at number one.

Double check the spark order. Confirm ground wires all attached (thread with pics findable in search).

Block order: 1234 yep
Double check the cap is marked: 1342 (Have seen bad batch of caps, but to lazy to search up the thread)

My starter ground is attached to the stay, at the intake. Long as you have metal to metal all the way to the block, and it cranks healthy it's good. I forgot where you said on the AC bracket, the rear looks no problem front not as much but again if it's a clean path to the block and spins it's OK.

Listen to the injectors, screwdriver or stethoscope, make sure they are firing. Should be pretty obvious, mine are louder than the valve train.

These use a by-pass style ignition, in short while it's in STArt position the ignition is fired solely off the distributor pickup with no ECU adjustment. So if you're getting sparks then it should try to fire off. If it does then dies when you release the key to run its an issue with the ICM ECU communication, or a COR problem.

Well that's not entirely true, after a certain rpm (don't know the Toyota number, on GM by-pass ignition it's 400-500 rpm) the ECU takes over. So to healthy of a starter spin will kick in the ECU control.

Once fuel and spark are eliminated it's time to verify compression.

PS. Timing light not only makes it quick and simple, but safe also. Too much air gap brings the coil voltage over where it should be, you get random arcing and coil damage. Open air spark testing should be avoided unless you have a spark gauge it's easy to have to much air gap.

Erratic spark
 

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...3a4fc07ba3.jpg

Ignitor, coil, ignition ground. 1of2
This is grounded by chassis ground.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...a1392b8be7.jpg

2of2 Chassis/body ground.


Sparatic spark could be a bad ground, as well bad distributor pickup, failing ignition, or just flakey or poor routed wires.

The ignition system is grounded via the frame of the "module" to the inner fender then picked up at the battery.

Spark is grounded via the head strap. (I don't even have that one in place fwiw, mine is via head bolts and/or the alternator harness.. Yeah I know *shrug*)

Injectors ground via the ECU/EFI connection.