New Master cylinder quality
#1
New Master cylinder quality
I just put in a new clutch master cylinder which is located next to my firewall of a 1988 Toyota 2wd 20R 2 bbl carburetor.
I bought the part from Advance Auto Parts (formerly Trak Auto) because the old one leaked.
Since I put it in it has difficulty going into 1st and Reverse Gear. Its seems I have to struggle alot to get it into the lower gears.
I did bleed the new clutch master cylinder but was wondering if it could be due to the generic or poor quality Master cylinder part and I should try bleeding it again or buy another one from somewhere else?
I bought the part from Advance Auto Parts (formerly Trak Auto) because the old one leaked.
Since I put it in it has difficulty going into 1st and Reverse Gear. Its seems I have to struggle alot to get it into the lower gears.
I did bleed the new clutch master cylinder but was wondering if it could be due to the generic or poor quality Master cylinder part and I should try bleeding it again or buy another one from somewhere else?
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: western Colorado
Posts: 591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you only bench bleed the master or did you bleed the entire system after the install? You really need to bleed it at the slave cylinder. No matter how hard you try, you will get air in the line when switching out the master.
Also, make sure your clutch rod length, pedal height and freeplay are all correct and when in doubt, more gap and shorter is better. Don't run everything out to the point where the pedal is never releasing fully.
As far as the quality of the master, next time buy an OEM one from a dealer or online supplier. They really are better. If you check most places offer little to no warranty on their master cylinders and there is a good reason why; they're junk. My original master lasted around 190,000 miles. The next two aftermarket ones lasted only 25,000 between them.
You'd think I would have learned after the first one, but it took me two tries to get it right
Just an opinion.
Also, make sure your clutch rod length, pedal height and freeplay are all correct and when in doubt, more gap and shorter is better. Don't run everything out to the point where the pedal is never releasing fully.
As far as the quality of the master, next time buy an OEM one from a dealer or online supplier. They really are better. If you check most places offer little to no warranty on their master cylinders and there is a good reason why; they're junk. My original master lasted around 190,000 miles. The next two aftermarket ones lasted only 25,000 between them.
You'd think I would have learned after the first one, but it took me two tries to get it right
Just an opinion.
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Chelmsford, MA
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did mine on sunday with an autozone one and it works fine. I left the height higher cause it kinda feels like a newer clutch, maybe that is a bad idea according to 451 because it may not release all the way, certainly feels like it does though. But yea u gotta bleed from the clutch slave cylinder, mine shot out tonz of bubbles foamlooking bubbles etc. Chiltons is dumb and says to push the pedal down fast once the bleeder bolt is open, that ididnt work for me. I had my person pump it a ton of times and hold it down, just like brakes, than I opened the slave bleeder and it shot tonz of bubbles out.
If this doesnt work for you and you still have problems, there is this seal i saw people talking about the other day that goes where the shifter goes into the transmission. It is supossed to help shift into first and whatnot. Replace that and I hear your transmission feels a ton better.
good luck,
AK
If this doesnt work for you and you still have problems, there is this seal i saw people talking about the other day that goes where the shifter goes into the transmission. It is supossed to help shift into first and whatnot. Replace that and I hear your transmission feels a ton better.
good luck,
AK
#4
How do I adjust the pedal rod and height?
In the past I never had to do that with the previous aftermarket master cylinders I put in this truck which is probably why they only lasted 5 years.
I assume I do that first then bleed the Slave cylinder?
In the past I never had to do that with the previous aftermarket master cylinders I put in this truck which is probably why they only lasted 5 years.
I assume I do that first then bleed the Slave cylinder?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post