comp-time

OK, I recently bought a 95 4runner 3.0 auto 140k. looks to be all stock with 31x10.5x15 tires when I picked it up the O/D light was flashing and check engine light came on on the way home. It was an 80 mile trip home from the point of purchase. Anyway, once back at the homestead, I checked the codes and got "speed sensor #2" and EGR code 71. I was crawling in, on, under and around the thing checking it out and found two plugs unplugged on the transmission. I plugged them back in and fixed the light and reset the computer. The trans doesn't look like it had ever been removed and the gasket material looks stock from the outside of the case. my question on this is why would someone unplug these two plugs? am I missing something. The trans shifts OK but seams to shift out of overdrive early at highway speeds. the guy I bought it from bought it for his 16 yo kid who was a mutant 6foot 8 inch and he did not fit so he sold it to me.

next deli ma... There seams to be a lack of power. The engine purrs great at all RPMs. I cleaned the intake with two seafoam treatments int a vacuum port, new air filter and it just seams like the thing is a dog! I checked the timing the proper way and it is within OEM range. I am planning a new fuel filter tomorrow. ???????

Next..... The EGR code 71. I checked the EGR according to the directions in the Haynes book and it checked OK. I think something is affecting my fuel mileage also I got 11.5mpg on the trip home on the day of purchase before I did anything to the truck. I have not driven it enough yet to check it again.

next... rear ABS light in on intermittently. If I start the truck without putting my foot on the brake, it seams to have a better chance of not coming on. It will come on during a drive while braking occasionally and stays on until I cycle the ignition. I sometimes hear a relay clicking under the dash on the driver's side, unsure if this is related to the ABS??

A bit of background on me. I a Jeep guy that gave up the Jeeps and took up serious fishing a few years back. I have a decent knowledge of mechanics and am able to figure out mechanical crap most of the time. I owned a few other toyotas in the past, my first car was a 1983 supra straight six 5spd and second was an 89 sr5 pu 4x4 22r 5spd.
I have looked through the forum and it seams like there are a lot of guys here that know their stuff. The 4runner is a 2nd vehicle designated for pleasure and will maintain road usage most of the time. I plant to keep it user friendly and mostly stock with a few minor performance enhancements(intake mods, exhaust, rear suspension...)
Thanks for reading and helping,
Shay Vandivier

justinking060310

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

Thats the FSM(Factory Service Manual) that will answer questions/procedures that come up. It is very precise.

The 3.0 motor with an auto trans is not too quick. I have a highly modified one and it still doesn't seem too fast. (search for Katie's HG Job).


**EDIT** The ECT button by the shifter really effects the driving characteristics of the truck, but kills gas mileage **EDIT**

Changing the fuel filter cant hurt.

If you don't know the prior maintenance of the truck, it wouldn't hurt to do a compression test to see where your motor is at. A basic tuneup(air filter, pcv(PITA to change), cap, rotor, plugs) would be a good start after compression check looks good. A lot of people suggest replacing plug wires; however, I am a fan of testing the resistance with a multimeter and if they check out, then they are good.

As fas as the codes go, it seems a little fishy, but I guess drive it for a while and find out if you really do have a problem.

Some guys will bump the timing up to 14* BTDC to increase performance, but with gas prices as they are I have not done that and cannot comment on the effect.

I don't have any experience with the ABS light issue.

And finally, WELCOME TO YOTATECH! It's a great resource and I assure you that someone will be along to give some more input on your questions.

Katie~

comp-time

thanks for the info. i plan to get the fsm soon.


shay

leebee

hey man, welcome to yt! click on the link katie posted, load it to your favourites and you are off to the races. there is a sticky post at the top of this forum page with links to more service manuals, load them up as well.

you will also want to check out www.4crawler.com , lots of information on pretty much any problem you are likely to encounter. another good source of information is wabfab, member on here as well as vendor.

good luck with your 'new' rig!

lee

comp-time

Well.... I put a new super turbo muffler on today and discovered that the cat has been hallowed out, completely empty! could this be why the egr code shows up? maybe the lack of back pressure is not allowing the temp sensor to get the high temp for the egr??? anyway I plan to replace the cat eventually. it has a crappy echo in the exhaust.

thanks,
Shay

littlerunner

3.0 especially with auto is a dog.ABS light is very likely the rear ABS sensor in the diff housing.can be a pain in the butt to change.sometimes will seize up in housing.as far as O/D one thing to check is if the temp is getting into the normal range on the guage.if it is not warming up all the way it can affect O/D operation.Good Luck

94Runner4x4

not tryin to steal a thread but i have the same ABS problem. I picked up my 95 3.0 in savannah ga and had to drive 4 hours back to atlanta and i noticed it on the trip back, hasn't ever given me noticeable problems though but i should get it checked out. Gas mileage on yours is worse than mine! i thought my 13mpg/city was bad, well it is, i need to do the fuel filter change as well. good luck on making it great!

mehret

I don't know anything about the specs for 95s, but are the 31x10.5x15 tires the stock size? When I calculated the fuel mileage on my truck (87), I had to do a 20% adjustment for the mileage because I'm running 31x10.5s instead of the stock 225/75/15s.

Just some food for thought.

Four Runner

Welcome to YT!!

Here, this should help, as I too have seen this stuff.

Check to be sure:

1. Head gasket is not on recall or recall's done. Post 6/95 production's have the new gasket from the factory, and supposedly(?) should not be any issues with them. *I've yet to find out going on 80K.

2. Tranny Flush's been done recently.

3. Timing Belt/Radiator/Cooling Pump have been done, as they'll rot out if not treated right. *Get it done, run straight coolant, and rust inhibitor, and you'll be set. (If you have one of the partial plastic radiators, chuck it asap and get a brass/aluminum one like i did, way better cooling and better longevity.

4. Here's the ECT PDF Link:http://www.watrd.com/work/toyotaect.pdf

5. Differential I/D's and Code Info..*SOme were changed after unloading at dealerships to 30" tires, mine were supposedly originally 225/75R15's, were changed by the original owner to 235's, then back by the dealership, then again when I took delivery to 30*9.5's.
http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html
http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=274535

*Note, I'm dealing with a bit of a leak on mine, caused by who knows what right now, so I might suggest this... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...d-leak-118638/

6. Use the WIKI!! https://www.yotatech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page


.

notanymore

31s were an option but not everything had them stock

comp-time

is there a spedo gear that will correct the difference in tire size? I thought I hears that once but I am not sure??

comp-time

so I have been looking around on here for info about my cat problem. Mine was emptied out by the previous owner. all that is there is a shell with no guts! I am going to put a cat back on but have not decided what one to use, High flow or OEM style. My question is which one would be the best for power and fuel economy, high flow or the OEM style? I know that this seams to be a sore subject and I am going to put a cat on it just don't know which one. I get the whole concept of back pressure, low end torque, smog, death gasses Etc...

Shay

razrwild

welcome to yotatech and enjoy the runner.

For the cat I know summit has a few universal hi flow cats that are fairly cheap. Seems popular for people to run the 2 1/4" exhaust on these to help the 3.0 without losing low end.

Rocketman

Welcome Mr X-Jeep guy from an X-XJ owner.

I have an 86 pick-em-up with a 22R. POWER is not the strong suit with these vehicles but more than enough to wheel these light vehicles. They aren't 4.0's for sure but the mileage is great, at least for mine. I get 18 in the city and 22+ on the highway without doing any calculations for tire size. It's probably more as I'm running 31's.

The perceived lack of power could be gearing and tire size, just like a Jeep. Think what kind of "power" you have with 35's with 3.55 gears and an auto in a TJ...

Your situation with all kinds of things disconnected is familiar to mine. I bought my rig from a 16 yr old kid in Southern Illinois who didn't even know if his truck was Fuel Injected or Carb'd. They only changed the description on eBay after they posted pictures of the engine and it was a 22R and someone called em on it!

Get the FSM. It is very detailed like any FSM and will walk you through every detailed check of every sensor, wire, everything. Very nice FSM's Toyota has. The Chilton's and Haynes are well.... the "Cliffs Notes" of Manuals. BTW, no speedo gear like the range of colors we can put in a 231 or a 242 TC. I do miss that!!

Enjoy, I am.

TNRabbit

WELCOME TO YT!

I would leave the cat as is. It should run better that way. It SHOULD NOT give you an EGR code.

I knocked the innards out of mine & it works fine. The auto tranny is definitely a dog. I would change the tranny fluid out if you don't know it was changed recently. As Katie said, do a compression test & check for any vacuum leaks which will rob you of power. Also replace the fuel & air filters. DO NOT use the K&N craptastic filter. OEM is the way to go.

Good luck & have fun here on YT!

comp-time

Today I was catching up on my unmaintained 4runner... So I changed the rear U joints. I noticed that the drive shaft spline was frozen so after about 6hours and a blow torch, hydraulic jack, and three progressively larger hammers, I got the drive shaft to work freely. Once I got the two shafts free, I discovered what looked like plastic that was embedded in the spline of the short shaft. I cant imagine the trouble this seized up slip shaft would have caused but I am sure it would have been bad, broken motor mounts, bearings and seals in the diff and tranny, cracked manifolds... when the suspension would raise and lower, I am sure the engine and tranny moved with it because of the frozen shaft! I have never seen this problem before, anyone else???

also changed the fuel filter and it seamed to help a bit. I am getting caught up a bit at a time. Just need to put on a new cat, rear springs, new dash pad, new CV shaft boot up front, change the front and rear diff fluid, shocks, speakers and what ever else comes up. that sounds like a lot of stuff but not bad to get her ready to go for a couple hunred thou.

comp-time

*UPDATE*

I did the ISR and air box mod, cleaned the throttle body and EGR, did a seafoam treatment and gave her was wax job. Don't know which one did it but definitely got some boost now! What an improvement.

justinking060310

Glad to here your running well,

As far as your driveshaft is concerned, I would be very impressed if when you compress/unload the suspension, that the driveshaft would not make itself slip - I find it highly unlikely actually

Extremely strange problem none the less.

FYI I have the carsound magnaflow cat(2 1/2") and I would say it is neither here nor there as far as performance goes - Get whats cheap and if the one you have doesnt leak then leave it in there. Unless thats your part to saving out OZone in which respect, change it

comp-time

[QUOTE=justinking060310;50575810]Glad to here your running well,

As far as your driveshaft is concerned, I would be very impressed if when you compress/unload the suspension, that the driveshaft would not make itself slip - I find it highly unlikely actually

Extremely strange problem none the less.QUOTE]

there is NO way it would have compressed. I put two 2 ton hydraulic jacks on it to try to separate it and had to still use a sledge and torch to get it to break free! I used the jacks like a reverse press by inserting a 1 1/8 inch steel pipe through the yolks on each end and used the shaft out of my tallest jack stands to span the distance between the yolks. It was quite a set up!! I do not know what the crap inside the spline was but it seized big time. Unlikely, but very true!!!

offroad4x4yota

I know exactly what is wrong with your tranny cause I just fixed the same problem. You will need to replace the speed sensor and the shift solenoids. The speed sensor is around $60 and the solenoids from Dacco Detroit are $170. And yes it will affect your fuel mileage big time! Here is the link to my thread this should help alot https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-trans-115292/

Good luck!