Negative Ground Locations
 

Hey everyone. I'm looking for some help and some pics of where the factory grounding locations are for a '91 standard cab 4x4 with the 3vze v6. I'm pretty sure that I'm not grounded correctly/properly/enough.

Currently I have a positive going from the battery to he starter and then also another to the fuse box. My Ground only goes from the battery to my block.

I've been reading about another ground to the fender wall, another to he firewall, and another to the frame. I've also seen post about the alternator positive aswell. Now I know that this starts to fall into the category of "the Big 3" but I'm looking for stock locations and pictures if possible (I'm still a visual learner).

An early thanks for any and all who can help me here.

-=Morphine=-

Yeah it sounds like you're missing a few. On my 3.0 there was a ground from the middle of the firewall (near heater hoses) to the intake manifold:
http://thumb7.webshots.net/t/34/34/3...7HUNcVY_th.jpg

I used the same wire on my 3.4 swap because the 3.4 didn't have one and I figured it couldn't hurt to keep the old one. I think that is a noise filter on the wire:
http://thumb7.webshots.net/t/28/29/0...7AzCQyO_th.jpg

And from the battery to the inter-fender:
http://thumb7.webshots.net/t/57/457/...7fkxMOS_th.jpg

I've the same setup as Dale... The key reference for ground is, of course, the battery. So grounding the block and the fender wall is a good idea, although not technically necessary as the body and the block are going to be at ground if either is grounded.

In other words there are multiple paths connecting the block to the body. However you can not have too many grounds from the battery, so it is good practice to have a direct connection from the battery to both. Tends to reduce electrolyisis at various points connecting the block, transmission and running gear. The starter motor draws a lot of current from ground, so a direct conection to the block more directly connects the ground to the starter motor.

You can check the quality of the ground you have now if you purchase a DVM. Using the ohms setting you can check the block to the negative side of the battery, and likewise from the body to the negative side of the battery, being careful not to allow 12v across the ohmmeter. You should show values of less than 0.09 ohms, or 90milliohms.

You can also check the quality of the ground clamp on the battery by checking the outside ring of the clamp to the battery ground. It should be zero ohms, or very close to it.

Just an update here. My yota was only grounded from the negative post to the block however the ground was set at such a horrible spot I can now see why I was having issues. The bolt was not secured well (I just re-attached it from where it was when I bought her). I then added a secondary ground from the negative post to the inner fenderwell wall.

Resolution::
Resecure the grond to a better location on the block and Im adding another ground from the block to the chassis. I was advised of me to actually piggyback the grounds from the negative to the block and then continue on to the frame.

My buddy just informed me that he obtained a 90 yota v6 all stock. I will be taking pics and will then post them up on here as others have asked for the stock grounding location. Thanks for the help everyone, now let me see if I can contribute.

-=Morphine=-